JacobK

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys today yesturday my buddy installed my new ASP Underdrive pulley and i went and picked the car up, and like the clutch pedal was like stuck to the floor, i tried to put it in gear and it would go in any gear. So i reached down and pulled the pedal up and boom, worked fine. Then today i got into little race with a GT and once i hit those higher RPM's BOOM again it got stuck. What could be wrong? it seems like it is doing it when i get on it in high RPMs. The car is 100K miles, and i know i need a reverse synchro, and i am gonna be getting the trans rebuilt as soon as i can get some money saved. I was just curious what u guys thought could be wrong

Parks02WS6

Drill mod or buy a clutch master cylinder off a 01-02.

Refer to step 16 of this install guide. This will take care of your problem...

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

ASk your buddy what he did with your car after he installed the under drive pulley. I'll almost guarantee you he smoked the clutch.

5POINT7

I had the same problem of the clutch sticking to the floor and then working fine. Do you have headers?

Because it ended up that the hose from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder burnt on my headers and was leaking clutch fluid. Got the hose fixed, replaced the fluid and everything was fine.

blue by you

iTrader: (5)

You need the updated hydraulics, plain and simple.

Street Racer

iTrader: (65)

sounds like you need a new Master my friend give Cartek a call they have a adjustable ones that is the one you will need.

JacobK

iTrader: (10)

well im gonna be taking the trans in for a rebuild from Speed Inc anyways, so they will most likely switch all of this over correct?

SlickVert

iTrader: (5)

Try bleeding the clutch with some new fluid. This has worked many times.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (12)

guys, the hydraulics probally arent the entire problem. Im wondering if he has long tubes. This really seems to be the constant w/ all the other variables. I had the sticking clutch pedal. I first had the slave replaced w/ a z06 one, no difference. Then an entire z06 clutch assembly fixed the problem. 6 months later, its back again. dealer put ina z06 master, no difference so im back to square one. I really think my long tubes are heating up my line causing the problems. I also have the line drilled out. I do have a c5 but its a very similar setup.

Dave

JacobK

iTrader: (10)

Ya guys i do not have longtubes, i still have the stock manifolds.

Dal1as

Could be your slave. That's all I can come up with in a similar case. I even wrapped the steel braided line in rubber and heat tape. I've bled it numerous times and still get a soft pedal after getting on it. Even replaced the master cylinder. It's either the slave or my car is powering through the clutch. Although I have yet to smell clutch or feel it slip. I dunno but I'm sick of it.

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

i have an 01, and have the same problem, i guess im gonna have to to the drill mod also

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

Do you have to do the drill mod on an '01

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Any year needs the drill mod.

I had to reposition my line and heat shield to help with the LT's.

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

So you do the drill mod whether you you have an '01 model or not? I have an '01 so do I have the upgraded hydraulics and master cylinder?

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

SuperC1, Any year can benefit from the drill mod. However, it will not help with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. My 02 has the updated MC @ Slave along with the LS6 clutch. I've been there and tried that. The only fix I found for the sticking clutch is to wrap the line going from the MC to the Slave with 3/8" rubber fuel line and then wrap a **** load of aluminum heat shielding over that. I also routed the line behind the heat shield to get it away from the header heat. The use of DOT V Synthetic fluid with a 500 degree boiling point is also helpful.

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks dude,
thats some useful info

AtlantaRTA

I have a clutch that sticks and frees up after operating it a few times. It does this cold, at idle, or engine off. I have a RAM Powergrip clutch, Mcleod Master with drill mod, New GM slave cylinder,(all LS1's list the 288 slave now), and this setup is 1 month old. I found reverse bleeding to be very fast with the master unbolted and level in the car. I bled the system and was fine for a week but intermittantly the pedal has about half its travel. You can pull it up but until you operate it repeatidly you can't get full disengagement. The theories are as follows: From Ram- the slave cylinder is over extending and hanging. Fom Thunder Racing- the pressure plate fingers are flattening out because they are pushed too far. Both Ram and McLeod say they don't believe you can flatten the pressure plate fingers. I have shortened the rod to limit travel and I'm going to shorten it more but you can barely lift the pedal off the floor before reverse is difficult to engage. I have three threads left to minimum length. I'm also going to rebleed and rebuild the master this weekend. By the way the Ram pressure plate fingers on the Powergrip are 0.100" shorter than the GM plate according to Ram.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (12)

I "thought" it was a heat problem too. I've got a z06 clutch and z06 master/slave, high temp brake fluid, and the line covered in high temp tape and then I slit a -8AN braided line and slid it over the tape and i still have the problem. THere is no way heat is getting through all that so quickly. Im going to be swapping in a different clutch and i bet dollars to donuts that'll fix it. IM putting the blame on the pressure plate.

Dave

Onyx Z

iTrader: (3)

I have both a new slave and the POS McLeod MC along with the drillmod, and mine still sticks to the flor sometimes.......I know what my problem is though, the POS MC.