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Won't go in gear

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Old 03-30-2005, 07:27 PM
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Question Won't go in gear

I've got a '99 SS with a T56 and original clutch that has 50k on it. The only tranny mods I've done are the Pro 5.0 and the skip shift eliminator. Earlier today I was trying to shift from 2nd to 3rd and it wouldn't go into 3rd no matter what I did. I was fishing around for gears and it wouldn't go in anywhere. I finally tried shutting off the engine and was able to put it in 1st. I started the engine and was able to drive normally for a ways, shifting from 1st thru 3rd but then I couldn't get it into 2nd on a downshift. I turned the engine off again, put it in 1st, started the engine, and was able to drive normally the rest of the way home, stopping and going at stop signs several times. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be wrong and why my car suddenly and sporadically won't go in gear? Thank you.
Old 03-31-2005, 06:33 AM
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If it shifts with the engine off but not with it running, you clutch is not releasing. If the hydraulics are at fault, it may be intermittent .
Old 03-31-2005, 06:08 PM
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Had a mechanic look at it today. All hydraulics were good and he could not reproduce the problem I was having, but he noted a loud grinding noise coming from the transmission. Something I noticed too, but forgot to mention in the original post. He proposed that it was one of the bearings: input shaft or throw out bearings most likely or possibly something in the internals of the trans. He wanted $400 for 4.5 hours labor just to take the tranny out. He also recommended changing the clutch while the tranny was out. I think he's right even though it seems to be working fine. He said it would be $750 for the stock clutch kit (including flywheel). So I am looking at over $1100 and I still won't have the original problem fixed. I told him I'd come by and pick up my poor SS so I could think about what to do next.

Any comments/suggestions on what to do at this point?
Old 03-31-2005, 09:06 PM
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Seems like I'm talkin to myself here, but I drove it again today. No problems shifting it into any gears though. But after a downshift into 2nd, with the clutch still in, came a nasty grinding noise. Sounds terrible.
Old 04-03-2005, 04:49 PM
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I'm no transmission expert but I had the same exact problem as you and it was the bolt coming loose on my Pro 5.0 (stop bolts and the two bolts on the stick). You might want to check those out before you do anything major. Does your shifter feel loose at all?
Old 04-03-2005, 05:45 PM
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Input shaft bearings can be noisy and not faulty. Dont get me wrong, if it sounds lbad thats one thing but they sometimes can be noisy
Old 04-03-2005, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by shaliSS
Had a mechanic look at it today. All hydraulics were good and he could not reproduce the problem I was having, but he noted a loud grinding noise coming from the transmission. Something I noticed too, but forgot to mention in the original post. He proposed that it was one of the bearings: input shaft or throw out bearings most likely or possibly something in the internals of the trans. He wanted $400 for 4.5 hours labor just to take the tranny out. He also recommended changing the clutch while the tranny was out. I think he's right even though it seems to be working fine. He said it would be $750 for the stock clutch kit (including flywheel). So I am looking at over $1100 and I still won't have the original problem fixed. I told him I'd come by and pick up my poor SS so I could think about what to do next.

Any comments/suggestions on what to do at this point?
He is making guesses at your expense.You might just need to change the fluid in your hydro. and rebleed it. I can bet money it's the hydro. Your pressure plate isn't pushing in enough to release the clutch, thats why it's grinding. Upgrade to 02 GM hydro. That would be the cheapest thing to change of all.I would start off changeing the fluid and bleeding your slave. Start with the hydro.
Old 04-04-2005, 10:01 AM
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Thanks for the input. My Pro 5.0 doesn't feel loose at all and the shifter positions feel normal and everything. I will give it a second look tho. And I am for sure gonna check out the hydro. Sounds like a plausible explanation. I am definitely going to explore these issues before I drop the tranny. I found a different shop too, just in case...Top Flight Corvette in San Diego. At least he knew my car had a V8....haha. The last guy had to ask me what engine I had and if it was a 5-speed. HAHA
Old 04-04-2005, 03:53 PM
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OK man, first check the clutch fluid. If it is not the fluid, I would suspect the clutch is done. Sometimes it is fine until it is warm, or works best warm. However, if this is the case, the whole thing will go kapluey in less than 250 miles. DO NOT GET THE FACTORY CLUTCH. Look into a Z06 or aftermarket clutch. Sometimes you can check the Vette forums and the guys will be practically giving away a fairly new clutch. Also, do not buy a Centerforce clutch, it will chatter and all kinds of crap. Those are only good for racing only. Look @ the sponsors, they usually have good deals too, and get the whole kit minus the flywheel, just makesure to have the flywheel turned. Good luck.
Old 04-15-2005, 01:38 PM
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After having my car in the shop since April 5th at Top Flight Corvette, the guy says my pilot shaft is no good. He says it's gonna be ~$1520 to overhaul the tranny with a new pilot shaft (that doesn't include $400 R&R). He also says that the clutch needs to be pulled to look at the pilot bearing and with a light, he can already see that inside the crank some bearings have already fallen out. He says there's a bunch of rust everywhere and at the very least, the clutch cover will have to be replaced as well.
Old 04-15-2005, 05:03 PM
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If they rebuild your tranny make sure you go with a steel 3-4 shift fork and billet slider keys for the 3-4 shift.They can order the parts from G-force transmissions. It might cost you a extra 100-200 bucks but it will save you in the long run
Old 05-05-2005, 10:37 AM
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Just to give the final update in this saga for anyone who may be interested or has experienced a similar problem and is looking for info:

Turned out that the pilot bearing was at fault. In turn, the pilot shaft and clutch ended up getting wasted. Repairs needed were transmission overhaul with new pilot shaft and bearing and new clutch. Grand total was $2570 for parts and labor.

Now the engine idles ~1200 rpm intermittently but most of the time it's fine. ....onto the next saga to try and figure out what this one's about.
Old 05-07-2005, 01:55 AM
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Sorry to hear that...i am kinda having the same exact problem...i hope its not that bad though...



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