Ravenkel

only had the car for a little over a week now, still trying to work out the problems. Had to replace the battery the other day (went with a red-top)
Car came like this:
LS1 V8, 6 speed, B&M Shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, 3.73 Gear Ratio, SLP Bilstein Shocks, SLP Eibach Springs, SLP Upgraded Sway Bars, BMR Subframe Connectors, BMR Shock Tower Brace, Polyurethane Engine Mounts, Whisper Air Intake Lid, Hypertech Power Programmer, Flowmaster Exhaust

Been having some problems with the clutch from day one. Fluid was a little low when we picked it up so between that and tightening the B&M shifter (which was loose) it seemed to grab alot better, but still had problems where it would keep popping out of 3rd gear intermittently.

Than yesterday after about 1 hour in bumper to bumper, stop and go traffic (which seemed to be playing really hard on the car), we parked and than a couple of hours later when we went to start it up again, and it started fine, but than would not go into gear at all, we refilled clutch fluid (it didn't really leak or anything, just went down a tad, think there might be air in the lines) we turned off the car and back on a couple times, pumped clutch, and after a few times of no pressure it finally kicked back in, and we were able to get it in gear and go, we needed to stop for gas later, went to go again same thing, would not go into gear, clutch straight down, no pressure and than all of a sudden pressure would come back and we were able to get it into gear, but than when we had to stop for a light again it did that, even a few times of the ****** highway (wouldn't upshift from 2nd to third on the highway) had to pull over restart, pump the clutch, and by this time the car was dying, had problems starting, jerking, staggering while driving in gear at about 50, we actually had to start it in gear and take off just to get anywhere close to home (we were 1 hour away from home)
So we basically glided through the lights in town in 2nd, and slowed down to wait for the reds to change and just kinda coasted home in 2nd.

Okay so when the clutch DOES re-pressurize, there is no problem goes right into gear, but it random, could be in 2nd - go to switch to third, and all of a sudden nope, just locked in neutral,... Although the trannys is having it's small problems, and probably needs to be rebuilt anyways, this problem doesn't seem to be clutch related, cause when the clutch does get pressure, goes into gear fine, ........could the master cylinder be fucked, or just need to bleed the lines? and suggestions on this stuff???
was thinking maybe since we would have to drop the tranny anyways to get to and fix the clutch, maybe we should just get the tranny rebuilt now anyways, and upgrade the master, and anything else now anyways??????? And if so can someone recommend first of all a good setup (don't think I want to go with the spec 3 clutch again) and most importantly a placer to have it done,.???? kinda stuck right cause I am a condo just moved, no garage or tools at all?????

PLEASE someone help me out and make some suggestions or inputs???
Cheers

Ravenkel

I did search alot of different forums in terms of the problem it could be, I just don't want to waste the money replacing something that doesn't need it right now, and than realizing it is something else,....... and I still would really appreciate anyone's specific recommendations based on my setup in terms of which direction to go, and they have any advice form previous experience????

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

Sounds to me like some sort of hydraulic problem. What I dont know but it could be only couple of things. 1. no fluid 2. your screen my be clogged in the line, if you still have one 3. fluid maybe getting hot from exhaust 4. master cylinder is bad 5. Throw out bearing (like I think mine is fuc--- up some way) is bad 6. maybe a bad connection from the line to the tranny fitting 7. air in the line 8. Your hose maybe swelling instead pushing fluid though it 9. Are you using synetic fliud ? Spec says not to use it, that it causes blow bye. At least thats what was on the instructions they sent with the new clutch I received friday. I cant think of any more things right now . Maybe this will help you somewhat right now before you go out and start buying stuff you might not need.

Ravenkel

Hey smokeum99ta thanks so much for the advice and suggestions,....when we went to take a look at it today, it actually looks like the master cylinder might have blown over, cause the slave and housing was soaked, and it had leaked all the way down through the wheel well straight to underneath, but the weird thing is when we started it, left emergency brake on, and tried the gears, they went in today smooth as butter? I was going to do a coolant flush tomorrow, and now I guess I am looking at bleeding the clutch too, at least that way if there is any air or residue it will get rid of it, but the person that had the car before said something about thinking the master cylinder needed replacing anyways so I am assuming I should do that too,....any suggestions on a good setup?

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

You've got a couple of problems. First, losing ANY amount of clutch fluid means you have a leak. Most likely your slave is shot. A leaky slave will cause all the problems you have listed. Your next problem is the popping out of third gear. That is a transmission problem. Synchros, blocker rings or something are damaged. So pull the trans and have it refreshed. While the trans is out check your clutch...replace the slave anyway regardless. Sorry for the bad news...but you'll be golden after this project.

Ravenkel

okay Dustin Butts thanks so much,
so now the big question is,....
Does anyone know a good place in or around the Daytona area that would be able to do this???? be it garage or independent person???
like I said before I am stuck right now because I don't have a garage, but any input about any friends or garages that you would recommend would be most appreciated!!

Ravenkel

Okay so now we have fully flushed and bled the clutch-> fluid was black and sludgy-> bled system till pedal was normal-> started car-> tried to put in 1rst->
wouldn't go into any gear-> pedal was spongy after staring car-> turned off car-> removed reservoir cap & rubber-> slowly pumped clutch a few times while checking for leaks or bubbles-> fluid was not leaking anywhere, and fluid was clear-> replace cap, restart, and it engaged fine?????

This was just today, we were able to get it home okay, and than a couple hours later on our way for a walk tried it again, seemed fine?!
I just don't know if replacing the slave/master/hydraulic lines is going to fix the problem or just be a waste of $$, I finally got in touch with the person who owned it before, and he said that the master/slave was changed to the (oem but upgraded one) about 4 years ago, and the lines were completely flushed when the Spec 3 clutch was put in about 2 years ago. And from the feedback I have gotten I don't think it would be the clutch because when it does work it works beautifully???

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like one of your seals in either the slave or master has a leak in it, pumping the clutch gets enough fluid volume moving that it overcomes the small leak in one of the seals (clutch then works)
Sounds alot like a problem my friend had with his brakes, had to pump them a few times before they'd work, R&R'd the MC and they worked fine, so I'd definately look at replacing one or both of the clutch cylinders. As for where can't help you there, but you might ask around at work (or school) and see where those folk take their cars
Good Luck

Ravenkel

but if there is any air getting in, this would indicate some sort of break in the lines a.k.a leak???
But I am not seeing any leakage at all, it was parked here for a week and nothing at all on the ground, and when we pump the clutch or tried to bleed it, no leakage at all??
Also if there was air in the line wouldn't the pedal be somewhat soft?

thanks again

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

I'm not talking about an external leak, but rather an internal one, one of the internal seals in either the master or slave has a defect (cut, missing piece, or just plain worn out) either as the result of debris falling in from outside (taking the cover off to add fluid) fluid not being changed frequently enough, or from some other reason.
It may look perfectly fine on the outside but the internals aren't working properly (a given volume of fluid is needed to acutate the slave cyl, and if it's not getting the correct amount, due to an internal leak in either the master or slave, it won't work right)

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

I wish I had a clutch that would last 4 years!! Haaaah ahhaaa...If the clutch works good when the pedal is good then you only have a hydraulic problem. If the pedal starts acting up again you'll need to replace the slave first, then the MC if the problem persists. Check the clutch while you've got the trans out and replace if necessary.
I repeat however, that if your trans is popping out of gear like while deccelerating, you have a transmission problem.

Ravenkel

Hey,.....
has anyone ever heard of the rear vehicle speed sensor (the one that measures your driveshaft/tranny speed) going bad or giving problems that would cause the problems I have describing about the car not going into gear and,....
-no clutch sponginess ever
-when it works it works fine
-no grinding
-no loss of fluid and no clutch leak
-sometimes (strangely enough!) if we turn off the car and restart it, it will go into gear fine
Very Random

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

No. I don't see how. That sensor just controls the ABS.

Ravenkel

no,...
the rear sensor, the one that controls the drivetrain/tranny speed

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

Still, there's no computer control of the clutch hydraulic actuation system. It's all mechanical/hydraulic. Torque mngmt or ASR maybe, but that's all engine controls and brake stuff.
What part of the country are you located in?

Ravenkel

Hey Dustin Butts I am in Dayton beach, Florida
also tnx for the help btw! much appreciated!

and replacing the speed sensor,.. your right didn't affect the gear/clutch issue at all, but it DID HOWEVER fix another problem it was having with the temperature gauge randomly dropping while driving causing the engine to cut in and out and shutter violently,.....so at least that issue is fixed and done with!
1 victory at a time! lol

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

You're welcome brother. If you were closer I could help you swap out the clutch. I've done a lot of them. If your trans is popping out of gear continually may as well plan on getting it overhauled as well, while it's out.