Burned my stock clutch bad last sat night racing a 62 nova. His car was so loud I couldn't hear my tsp td's. I thought i was spinning in 2nd, turned out my clutch was slipping. I orded a ram clutch, should be here this weekend. I decided to do the drill mod prior to replacing the clutch. It was kind of a pain getting that little clip back onto the clutch arm. I didn't remove anything from the dash, I don't know if you are supposed to. I just crawled under there & did it. I bench bled to M/C & hose then hooked everything back up. Got in the car & the clutch pedal never felt better, so I didn't bleed the slave. We'll see how it drives, then hopfully I'll be doing the clutch this weekend. I could still smell burnt clutch under the car, not good.

 

I'm still debating whether to do it or not. Every LS1 owner I ask says to go for it, but every tranny guy I ask says it will probably do more harm than good .

 

Its just an orfis and drilling it just takes out the restriction...

 

probably the stupidest group of people you'll ever talk to you if they tell you that. either that, or you really need to work on your description skills.

 

I did it and like it. No more stuck pedal

 

definitely recommended

 

Do it!

 

I haven't drove it yet, we'll see how it works. I don't think it will change anything drastically because you only enlarge the hole a little. I didn't measure the size before I drilled it but the 1/8 drill only removed a little material. With my minimal understanding of hydralics, I think it is a good idea to do the drill mod.

 

Before the drill mod I couldn't even come close to powershifting! It would grind every damn time
Since I did the drill mod and replaced the clutch, slave and hydraulics it powershifts without complaint now

 

Actually, If you call some of the sponsors on this site some will say yes, others will say no. I'll probably go ahead and do it anyways once I do the clutch.

 

Whom ever says doing the Drill Mod will cause problems, have them call me and I'll yell at them. That statement that it will do more harm than good is just stupid!!!!!

Think of it this way....... They probibly just want your clutch to fail so they can sell you one!!!!!

If GM did not put the restrictor in the Master Cylinder in the 1st place the stock clutches would last much longer, let alone your trans...

Don't listen to dumb people...

Clint

 

Why do you say that?

 

GM designed the Master cylinder with this restrictor in the steel braded line to act as what they call an "ease engagement system," It's designed to slow the engagement slightly of the pressure plate to improve transmission engagement smoothness. This stock system works just fine for normal driving, but any agressive driving, or hard 1 - 4 shifting the restrictor causes the system to fail or not be able to keep up with the fast shifting, causing miss shifts, grinding gears etc..

Clint

 

I just replaced my clutch, and I did the drill mod. when I was drilling, I got the bit in about 1" but then I hit a "wall" where it was very had to drill any further. I pushed a little bit harder than when I did the previous drill space and it wouldnt drill anymore so I stopped. is this good enough? the bit was in at least 1" so I think it is good but I hit a hard restriction after that.
Is this normal?

 

Does this have anything to do with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor during hard romps through the gears? I've got an '00 WS6 and this has been happening to me pretty much ever since I got the car. I always thought it was just my clutch/PP giving up since my friend's '00 T/A never had that happen to him, but this is the first time I've ever read about the 'drill mod' and from what somebody esle described, might just be the answer to my problem.... ?

 

The drill out mod may do the trick. However, you need to check everything else. I did the mod but also did a new clutch, master and slave all at the same time. So I could not say the drill out mod did it, but may have been part of the solution. Now the pedal does not stick to the floor.

 

No the Drill Mod will DO the TRICK, unless it's something else wrong with your clutch pettal assembly, but I doubt it.

Do a little search and you'll see the steps to do the drill mod.. I did a write up about it a few days ago in one of these threads..

The clutch sticking to the ground is prime suspect to a hydrolic problem.

CLint

 

I followed this "how to" [url]http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/installu_pages/sophomore_year/drill_master_cylinder.htm

Minus replacing the master cylinder with a new adjustable one. It took 2-3 hours, there were a couple of hard things to do (removing & replacing the master cylinder) I don't think it would be possible to remove the hydralic line without removing the master cylinder. Still haven't drove it, maybe tomorrow.

 

Good info, thanks guys..

 

I've been thinking about doing it for awile now, you guys just convinced me to give it a shot!