Master & Slave Cylinders
#1
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Master & Slave Cylinders
Question for ya'll. I'm ordering a new master and slave cylinder for my 00 SS and I needed to know if both the Master and Slave needed to be replaced with the newer 01'-02' year or just the one of them.
By off chance, do ya'll happen to know what the part numbers for the Master and Slave Cylinder for the newer models are?
Lastly, I'm putting the "ZO6" clutch in there, but does the Master and Slave Cylinder for the ZO6 work in the Camaro?
Thanks for ya'lls help!
By off chance, do ya'll happen to know what the part numbers for the Master and Slave Cylinder for the newer models are?
Lastly, I'm putting the "ZO6" clutch in there, but does the Master and Slave Cylinder for the ZO6 work in the Camaro?
Thanks for ya'lls help!
#2
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I'm doing the same on my 2000 TA (Z06 clutch swap) and I'm not sure if the 00' master cylinder needs to be replaced with the 01' (or newer) part. I've pretty much figured out that the 00 slave cylinder is no longer available. Searches for the slave cylinder part number for 00-02 all come back with GM#12565145. The master cylinder still comes back with different part numbers:
EDIT:
2001-2002: The part is NOT GM 12565144 it is GM 12570277. This part includes the hydraulic line.
Anyone been down this road with a working setup that used GM parts and had a good outcome?
EDIT:
2001-2002: The part is NOT GM 12565144 it is GM 12570277. This part includes the hydraulic line.
Anyone been down this road with a working setup that used GM parts and had a good outcome?
Last edited by Mike44138; 08-17-2005 at 01:32 PM.
#6
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Originally Posted by Mike44138
I've pretty much figured out that the 00 slave cylinder is no longer available.
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#8
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CORRECTION: The above master cylinder part number info I posted is incorrect. The correct master cylinder part for 6 speed 01-02 TAs and Camaros is 12570277. This part number includes the hydraulic line from the master to the slave. This is direct from a GM dealer. Don't ask how I figured out I had it wrong....
#9
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Update:
Completed my clutch upgrade on my 2000 TA and I thought I'd relay some information for anyone considering it. I replaced the factory with a Z06 PP and friction disc and Fidanza Aluminum flywheel. Replaced the slave with a new 01+ design Bendix slave, replaced the master with a 01' master cylinder.
Bendix slave: 13207
GM Master: 12570277 comes pre-bled (thank god), and with reservoir and hydraulic line.
Z06 Clutch: Picked up a pull-out from Mallett Corvette in Berea, Ohio. http://www.mallettcars.com (great deal!)
Fidanza Flywheel: 198571 Picked up from Carolina Clutch
http://www.carolinaclutch.com (Great customer service, quick delivery, knowledgeable)
Clutch/Flywheel balancing: Gellner engineering in Cleveland, OH. Great service, knowledgeable staff. Strongly recommend them if you're in the Cleveland area.
While you're in there replace the pilot bearing. Even if it looks okay, it's a $15 part and is a quick replacement. My bearing looked fine, but after being removed it was seized. Autozone will loan you the puller for free. DON'T use the "hydraulic/grease" method to remove it. There's a chance you can damage the oil plug in the crank. Make sure you lubricate the new bearing, but don't get nuts. Grease on the clutch is a good way to ruin it.
Gellner said the flywheel was just about on for balance but the flywheel/PP combination was about 8 grams off. After balancing they got it down to .6 grams. According to Mallett Corvette, GM factory spec is 16 grams. Personally, not having to worry about the vibration or potential premature failure of engine/clutch parts due to it being out of balance was worth it. Many people don't balance and come out fine, but for all the effort you're going through it's worth it to know it's done right.
As stated above the '00 master cylinder will not cut it. I discovered that your typical parts stores (which will remain nameless) are very good at getting the wrong part numbers for 6 Speed TA master cylinders. If you buy your 01'+ master from a parts store, get in touch with the manufacturer and verify it's the right one before you figure it out the hard way like I did. Definitely bench bleed the master before you put it on, and install it with the reservoir attached and sealed after it's bled. Zip tie/hose clamp the rubber line attached to the reservoir to make sure you don't suck air past the hose. You'll know you have the master bled right when after installation and without the hydraulic line connected the pedal is impossible too depress (dont get nuts and try, you'll blow it up). Wish I would have bench bled the slave before I put it on the car, would have made bleeding a little easier.
Clutch impressions: My friction disc and pressure plate had 3000 miles on them at installation so my experience might not be accurate for a new setup. No chatter, no abnormal smell. Engagement point is about the same as stock, possibly slightly higher. Engagement is smooth and so far the clutch seems to be grabbing well and predictably. Definite improvement over stock, especially in high RPM 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Clutch peddle pressure is slightly higher than stock, but nothing to be concerned about.
Flywheel impressions: Deffinite acceleration improvement, especially at higher speeds. Driveability is great, only need a little more RPM in reverse. Ran the car with the AC, and did some city driving with no stalls/stutter. Overall I think a typical driver would not notice the first gear starting difference. I rarely drag the car and haven't launched it in first gear as I want to give the clutch time to mate up with the new flywheel. I'll report back after a few hundred miles of break-in although I don't think it will be a major issue (maybe an additional 100-300 RPM over normal on a hard launch).
Overall if you're not producing enough horsepower to blow the Z06 clutch I'd say it's a good upgrade. Even if you just buy the Z06 clutch kit with the GM flywheel I think you'll be happy with the results.
Completed my clutch upgrade on my 2000 TA and I thought I'd relay some information for anyone considering it. I replaced the factory with a Z06 PP and friction disc and Fidanza Aluminum flywheel. Replaced the slave with a new 01+ design Bendix slave, replaced the master with a 01' master cylinder.
Bendix slave: 13207
GM Master: 12570277 comes pre-bled (thank god), and with reservoir and hydraulic line.
Z06 Clutch: Picked up a pull-out from Mallett Corvette in Berea, Ohio. http://www.mallettcars.com (great deal!)
Fidanza Flywheel: 198571 Picked up from Carolina Clutch
http://www.carolinaclutch.com (Great customer service, quick delivery, knowledgeable)
Clutch/Flywheel balancing: Gellner engineering in Cleveland, OH. Great service, knowledgeable staff. Strongly recommend them if you're in the Cleveland area.
While you're in there replace the pilot bearing. Even if it looks okay, it's a $15 part and is a quick replacement. My bearing looked fine, but after being removed it was seized. Autozone will loan you the puller for free. DON'T use the "hydraulic/grease" method to remove it. There's a chance you can damage the oil plug in the crank. Make sure you lubricate the new bearing, but don't get nuts. Grease on the clutch is a good way to ruin it.
Gellner said the flywheel was just about on for balance but the flywheel/PP combination was about 8 grams off. After balancing they got it down to .6 grams. According to Mallett Corvette, GM factory spec is 16 grams. Personally, not having to worry about the vibration or potential premature failure of engine/clutch parts due to it being out of balance was worth it. Many people don't balance and come out fine, but for all the effort you're going through it's worth it to know it's done right.
As stated above the '00 master cylinder will not cut it. I discovered that your typical parts stores (which will remain nameless) are very good at getting the wrong part numbers for 6 Speed TA master cylinders. If you buy your 01'+ master from a parts store, get in touch with the manufacturer and verify it's the right one before you figure it out the hard way like I did. Definitely bench bleed the master before you put it on, and install it with the reservoir attached and sealed after it's bled. Zip tie/hose clamp the rubber line attached to the reservoir to make sure you don't suck air past the hose. You'll know you have the master bled right when after installation and without the hydraulic line connected the pedal is impossible too depress (dont get nuts and try, you'll blow it up). Wish I would have bench bled the slave before I put it on the car, would have made bleeding a little easier.
Clutch impressions: My friction disc and pressure plate had 3000 miles on them at installation so my experience might not be accurate for a new setup. No chatter, no abnormal smell. Engagement point is about the same as stock, possibly slightly higher. Engagement is smooth and so far the clutch seems to be grabbing well and predictably. Definite improvement over stock, especially in high RPM 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Clutch peddle pressure is slightly higher than stock, but nothing to be concerned about.
Flywheel impressions: Deffinite acceleration improvement, especially at higher speeds. Driveability is great, only need a little more RPM in reverse. Ran the car with the AC, and did some city driving with no stalls/stutter. Overall I think a typical driver would not notice the first gear starting difference. I rarely drag the car and haven't launched it in first gear as I want to give the clutch time to mate up with the new flywheel. I'll report back after a few hundred miles of break-in although I don't think it will be a major issue (maybe an additional 100-300 RPM over normal on a hard launch).
Overall if you're not producing enough horsepower to blow the Z06 clutch I'd say it's a good upgrade. Even if you just buy the Z06 clutch kit with the GM flywheel I think you'll be happy with the results.