new clutch, vibration and sticking
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
new clutch, vibration and sticking
well, i recently installed a Spec stage 3 with all new associated parts including a new spec billet steel flywheel.
Now i have vibration and the clutch pedal sticks to the floor for just a sec. just after hard shifts and then pops back up harshly.
My tech tells me that he bleed the clutch thoroughly and i have a McCleod master cylinder. The clutch didnt do this before the new spec 3 went in, so what gives.
Please help.
eric <><
Now i have vibration and the clutch pedal sticks to the floor for just a sec. just after hard shifts and then pops back up harshly.
My tech tells me that he bleed the clutch thoroughly and i have a McCleod master cylinder. The clutch didnt do this before the new spec 3 went in, so what gives.
Please help.
eric <><
#3
TECH Fanatic
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Never install a Spec without getting it balanced first IMO. I've had a Spec 2 for 30,000 miles with a good number of 3,500- 4,000 rpm launches and am quite happy with it. However, Spec had to replace the first one I put in the vibration was so bad. The second one still vibrated not near as bad but it had to come out and I had to have it balanced locally. That being said shortly I will be installing one of the new Spec 3+ clutches. A friend of mine installed a 4 last week and no problems.
#4
Hate to tell you about the vibration, But you should have had the fly wheel checked for balance, If you drive it like that for very long, not only will you have to replace the rearmain seal but also the clutch, because of all the oil the fly wheel will sling to the top and then drip onto the disk.
#5
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...someone should explain me a thing...
why the hell all (ALL!) those aftermarket parts aren't perfect from the origin?
I've never had the chance to buy something, bolt it on and say "ohh, it fits like the stocker!". Never. Ther's always something to adjust, to modify, to drill, to file, TO BALANCE...!
I'm probably too naive; I also was born in a place where new means NEW + PERFECT...
Maybe I'm also too old (38)... But I really have the impression that being screwed is becoming a sport!
sorry for this non-technical post, but I had to.
What is "very long"? Car is shaking a little at idle and I have a strange feeling at 3000 - 4000 rpm. So for the moment I stay at 2000 - 2500 rpm max.
Are 1000 miles already too much?
why the hell all (ALL!) those aftermarket parts aren't perfect from the origin?
I've never had the chance to buy something, bolt it on and say "ohh, it fits like the stocker!". Never. Ther's always something to adjust, to modify, to drill, to file, TO BALANCE...!
I'm probably too naive; I also was born in a place where new means NEW + PERFECT...
Maybe I'm also too old (38)... But I really have the impression that being screwed is becoming a sport!
sorry for this non-technical post, but I had to.
Originally Posted by jpz06
If you drive it like that for very long, not only will you have to replace the rearmain seal but also the clutch, because of all the oil the fly wheel will sling to the top and then drip onto the disk.
Are 1000 miles already too much?
#6
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When I had balance problems with two different Spec clutches they both vibrated worst at 1,100-1200 rpm after about 2,000 rpm you really couldn't feel the vibration. I ran a lot more than 1,000 miles before I solved my vibration issues, so unless it's really bad you're most likely OK.
#7
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by bigdsz
When I had balance problems with two different Spec clutches they both vibrated worst at 1,100-1200 rpm after about 2,000 rpm you really couldn't feel the vibration. I ran a lot more than 1,000 miles before I solved my vibration issues, so unless it's really bad you're most likely OK.
THanks for all the replies, at least now i know i'm not the only one
eric <><
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#8
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There is one thing I should mention, some Vettes have a fine tune balance from the factory at the flywheel. In other words not all Vettes have neutrally balanced flywheels. Check to see if there are any balance weights in the OEM flywheel. Or even better yet take the OEM flywheel to a machine shop locally to determine if it is in fact neutrally balanced. I had my complete Spec flywheel-clutch assembly balanced locally for $30.
#10
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Originally Posted by tici
...someone should explain me a thing...
why the hell all (ALL!) those aftermarket parts aren't perfect from the origin?
I've never had the chance to buy something, bolt it on and say "ohh, it fits like the stocker!". Never. Ther's always something to adjust, to modify, to drill, to file, TO BALANCE...!
I'm probably too naive; I also was born in a place where new means NEW + PERFECT...
Maybe I'm also too old (38)... But I really have the impression that being screwed is becoming a sport!
why the hell all (ALL!) those aftermarket parts aren't perfect from the origin?
I've never had the chance to buy something, bolt it on and say "ohh, it fits like the stocker!". Never. Ther's always something to adjust, to modify, to drill, to file, TO BALANCE...!
I'm probably too naive; I also was born in a place where new means NEW + PERFECT...
Maybe I'm also too old (38)... But I really have the impression that being screwed is becoming a sport!
Glad to hear you got the vibration gone. I am going through the same thing after a ZO6 clutch and flywheel install and all new hydraulics.
#13
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Originally Posted by tici
You mean you installed a Z06 clutch and it vibrates?
Crane 1.8 and clutch install - now issues