bleeding the system??
bleeding the system?? what are signs that you need to bleed the system??? I have the same hard-to-shift symtoms like everyone else... The only difference in mine is that some days it shifts like a champ, and then the next day i can tell a HUGE difference just by pushing in the clutch. The pedal feels week as hell and under WOT there is no way on earth youll get it in gear, and by forcing it, the tranny only grinds... Anyone have a clue???
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TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Tx
I loosened the slave bleeder in the bell housing and had a mity vac tip in the reservoir to prevent the fluid from draining. I then stand over the reservoir and remove the mity vac tip and let the fluid gravity drain, keeping the reservoir filled at the step mark. What ever you do, don't let the reservoir run dry. After flushing/draining 20 ounces or so, I put the mity vac tip back in the reservoir hole to prevent fluid draining, then tighten the bleeder. I remove the mity vac tip and make sure the level doesn't drop. Then, do the mity vac bleedling from the reservoir (do a search on buschman bleed method). There will be air in the system. Drive it around a while and keep doing the mity vac bleed process over the following 2-3 weeks until things feel great. It will feel great one day and then crappy a few days later. I guess the air bubbles eventually work loose with the heat and pumping of the pedal.
Oh, I think the fluid turning dark is normal after a while. I've had new fluid that turned cloudy after a month or so. I think I read it was due to the black rubber moisture lock in the reservoir. Good luck!
Oh, I think the fluid turning dark is normal after a while. I've had new fluid that turned cloudy after a month or so. I think I read it was due to the black rubber moisture lock in the reservoir. Good luck!