I have done several searches on this bellhousing and have found some good information, to include a great install write-up with pics. However, some info I have found in other threads is slightly conflicting. It seems that some guys using this bellhousing have found that it is essentially too tall (ie. it positions the tranny a little too far backward compared to the stock bell) due to the thickness of the plate that goes behind the flywheel acting as a shim of sorts. Having the tranny set backward a little too far obviously causes the master cylinder (and throwout bearing) to be positioned too far away from the pressure plate, which causes shifting (clutch) problems.

So, my question is, exactly how many of you have had this same problem and how many have not? If so, what was the fix? Shimming the slave possibly? Does anyone know if maybe this was just a problem on the initial ones when it first hit the market and maybe has since been corrected?

I have also seen where most guys complain that there isn't enough clearance to install the bolts that come with the kit because the heads won't clear the bell. Others have said that their kit included some allen head bolts to be used in the tight spots. So the next question is, is this another isssue that may have been resolved by Mcleod, or is this still an issue? What bolts came in your kits? I realize this isn't a big deal because I can always buy the right allen headed bolts separately, but I'd like to think that I'm getting the correct hardware with the kit.

Any info on these or other issues with this bellhousing would be greatly appreaciated. Please note when you purchase yours so I can get a feel for how early it was in the production. Thanks alot for any and all info.

Gary

 

I'm also interested in this. I will be buying one of those bellhousings. Please come forward those of you that have experienced this.

 

I just recently installed a McLeod bellhousing and twin disc clutch as part of an LS2 install in my 01 WS6. Mine was purchased in Oct. I did have some issues with the bellhousing.

1) Slave - no slot exists in the bellhousing for the stock slave bleeder. McLeod offers a slave that has braided lines to address this issue. They are currently on backorder indefinately (I've been trying to get one for 5 weeks). So I notched the bellhousing (very easy to do with a cutoff wheel) to clear the stock slave bleeder.

2) Starter - I had to clearance the bellhousing to allow the starter to bolt up. The bellhousing was interfering with the bottom of the starter. Required about 1/16" to be removed.

3) Drivers side header - The bellhousing has a starter mounting flange on both the driver and passenger sides. I was unable to reinstall my QTP header on the driver side without grinding off about 1/2" on the outer edge of the driver side starter flange and clearancing the k-member for one of the header tubes. I did test fit the header with the engine and trans out of the car and it fit with no problems. Just couldn't install/remove the header without some clearancing of the bell housing.

4) Block bolts alignment - I did have three bellhousing to block bolts that did have some clearance issues even with the allen head bolts. It required some slight clearancing of the location where the bolt head was against the side portion of the bell housing. Not a big issue, but I almost cross threaded the bolts until a little grinding took place. My kit included enough allen head bolts for all the block bolts.

5) Slave position - I'm using a McLeod adjustable master cylinder so this hasn't been an issue for me. With the stock master cylinder my clutch engaged 1" off the floor (McLeod twin disc clutch).

Unfortunatley any modifications (grinding) to the bellhousing voids the SFI certification, but I decided to go ahead and make the necessary modifications to easy in installation. The modifications I made had no negative impact on the structural integrity of the bell housing and my safety was my main concern (not a SFI cert). I must admitt I wasn't thrilled with the fit of the bellhousing and all the modifications I had to make for it to fit. Too bad the McLeod is the only one currently on the market.

 

ozws6, Thanks! This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I too, am like you because I'm doing this strictly for safety reasons and really don't mind voiding the SFI cert, although it would be great if this could be installed without needing to mod it so much.

So, when you said that your clutch engaged 1 inch off the floor with your stock master, am I correct in assuming that this was with the Mcleod bell? I'm currently running a SPEC 3 clutch, which came with a shim that goes behind the slave, so I'm thinking maybe I'll just make a thicker shim to take up a little more of the "slack", but I sure do hate guess work. Maybe I should just buy the Mcleod adjustable and be done with it.

So, lets keep this going. Has anyone else experienced anything different? Anyone (other than the few other threads I've found) having problems running this bell with stock hydrolics? Sounds like the kits are atleast now coming with the allen head bolts.

 

McLeod isn't the only one out there.

Keisler Engineering Inc makes a titanium-aluminum bellhousing as well:

http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/transm...ellhousing.asp

 

GC99TA, that is correct, when using my stock master and the McLeod bellhousing the clutch engaged 1" off the floor. I would recommend purchasing the McLeod adjustable master cylinder and perform the drill mod on the lines (stock lines are reused with the McLeod master). The McLeod master will allow you to adjust the engagement point of the clutch. I have mine adjusted for the clutch to engage right at the top, perfect for quick shifts.

 

I don't think that is a SFI certified bell housing. Or at least I didn't notice it while I was reading though the link.

 

I installed the McLeod bellhousing back in Sept. timeframe, and it was a PITA. It's not the easiest job in the world, had a problem with bolt holes not quite lining up to block, that was the one that ticked me off the most. I do have to take the tranny back out to put in the shim, got it from texas-speed. I've been out to sea for the last 2 and a half months, so I haven't had a chance to play with it. I have the adj. master that came with my RAM VDS clutch, but it's outta adjustment and like the others said, it engages just off the floor. Ok for driving around town, but can't shift it hard at high rpm right now, not getting full disengagement. The shim should fix it tho. If you get it tho, be prepared to do a little customizing. Oh yeah, and I didn't use any of the bolts supplied. Made my own concoctions, lol. Good luck,

Brian

 

Thanks Brian. Anyone else who has had any experience with this can feel free to chime it. It looks like everyone is having the same common problems.