JCS30TH

iTrader: (1)

I AM PISSED. OH HOW NICE TO HAVE YOUR CLUTCH PEDAL STICK TO THE FLOOR................black fluid and spongy pedal. Son of a -----------------------------------------------

Keysplayr

1. Do you have aftermarket headers?
2. Do you believe the fluid is black because it heated to a boil?
3. How old is the fluid? (When was it last flushed)
4. What mods/upgrades have you done to your car if any?

Clutch on floor means air. Nothing more, nothing less. If the fluid boiled, you got air.
I would recommend replacing the hydraulic line going from master to slave, and when you do, insulate the hell out of it with the best material you can find for the job.

These are all just guesses mind you. Your original post leaves us with little to go on.

JCS30TH

iTrader: (1)

Engine is stock - 18k miles.
My guess would be that the fluid boiled and that is how air got into the system.

Rescue Ranger

iTrader: (10)

Mine does the same after a full throttle run at the end of 4th. going to do the drill mod during my new clutch install; hopefully that'll solve the problem.

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

Insulate master to slave braided line with 3/8th rubber fuel line. Go over that with lots of aluminum heat reflective tape. Perform the drill mod. Bleed your clutch system with a full bottle of DOT IV brake fluid. Bleed the whole bottle thru the system. I bleed a whole bottle thru twice a year.

I've never had the sticking problem after doing the above. Made some back to back passes today in the warm weather with no problems.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

I bled my line today, feels better, but some of the black fluid is still in there. Feels a lot better, but still not back to where it should be.

thechef

iTrader: (13)

man i am now in this same boat with my new H/C set up, my car has 80k on it and never had the pedal stick to the floor and the fluid has never been changed and it has been black for years, i guess its time to fluch it....LOL

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

How about this stuff:




Anyone ever try it?? Being that its fully synthetic, it has a higher boiling point (500 degrees) than conventional hydraulic fluid.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

I would have run ATE super blue, but didnt have any at the house.

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

That's what I use with great results.

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

drill mod and put dot 4 in. have had this ******* problem myself for the last month. and still cant get it fixed

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

That is the stuff I use it works great for me. I flush it every so often though, just for preventive maitence.

kenp

iTrader: (9)

I use the Valvoline synthetic too. There are some people who contend the synthetics will make your seals go bad in the slave. Mine has been ok for over a year now.

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

Those problems are only associated with DOT V fluids. Synpower DOT IV is perfectly safe in our systems.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

02BLK-SS

iTrader: (1)

WANTED - Tremec engineer that designed this peice of junk. Let's get his home address and all of us schedule some vacation.
Change to dot4, drill line mod, mity vac bleed. if that dont fix get aftermarket or LS2/LS7 pressure plate/clutch. heat on line, pressure plate counter weights, heat spots on pressure plate, etc all cause this issue. some do it some never have.
I also built remote hyd. bleeder so i can purge bleed with mity vac before track time.
For the gto guys that have responded in the past to this type thread let me say. gto's are to slow to have this problem, so i guess thats why they dont ever have this problem.
My ram900hd with ram 26lb flywheel. dot4 fluid, insulated line. drill mod, and remote bleeder have resolved this issue for me.
Now back to the first line. why gm why

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

Simma down nah .The hydraulic relase system has nothing to do with Tremec as it is fully designed, installed by GM. On that note, If you had used it as designed you may not have had the headaches you dealt yourself .I see that you have LT installed. I guess maybe you should be beat for improper car crafting and allowing those deficient hydraulics from being heated up by your blunder, not insulating the feed line. Mods are mods if you do them poorly , accept what you have done and what you get.

JCS30TH

iTrader: (1)

my car along with many ohters are stock.

buschman

I stick with GM OEM Brake fluid. Even when the fluid gets a little black, it's still engages fine. I also have LT headers. I did get a heat sleeve(Summit Part# SUM-350105) for the hydraulic line and I believe that helps.

I used ATE super blue for a while and had very bad results. Ended up having to send my MC back to McLeod and getting a new one. So I stay away from synthetics just based on personal experience. In the new MC I've run nothing but OEM brake fluid and have not had any problems.

The bleed is the key, see sig.

Mike

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

FWIW-AP designed the factory hydraulics.