Liberty's T56
#61
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Originally Posted by CamTom12
Turns out that shifter costs about $800 AUS, so that's a little out of the question for my purposes. Sure does look quality, though
I've been tossing around the idea of building a 2-step (not for manufacture) since I can't find an old harlan one anywhere and I was thinking about incorporating a timing-interrupt (some call them 'shift-cuts') for later down the road when I go to a face-plated or some sort of planetary tranny, so I don't have to worry as much about rebuilds and slipper-clutches... Kind of a pipe-dream, I guess
I've been tossing around the idea of building a 2-step (not for manufacture) since I can't find an old harlan one anywhere and I was thinking about incorporating a timing-interrupt (some call them 'shift-cuts') for later down the road when I go to a face-plated or some sort of planetary tranny, so I don't have to worry as much about rebuilds and slipper-clutches... Kind of a pipe-dream, I guess
I actually have a Harlan 2-step and I have PM'ed Harlan asking if maybe he will encorporate an ignition cut into his next version of the 2-step. I wouldn't think it be too complicated.
Andrew
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So GatTaGo would you reccomend this tranny for road racing...? I'm in the process of picking between tranny options. I was thinking sending my Gforce tranny to get the face plate upgrade would do the trick. But I'm hesitent if it would be a waste for a road racing setup. What do you think?
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
$800 AUS sounds right. At the PRI show they told me about $600 US. Then again the transmissions are about $18,000 US, so whats another $600 at that point.
I actually have a Harlan 2-step and I have PM'ed Harlan asking if maybe he will encorporate an ignition cut into his next version of the 2-step. I wouldn't think it be too complicated.
Andrew
I actually have a Harlan 2-step and I have PM'ed Harlan asking if maybe he will encorporate an ignition cut into his next version of the 2-step. I wouldn't think it be too complicated.
Andrew
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Hey Andrew, I was thinking of doing the same to mine. Mine is in a new gto. I was reading the way you found the best way to shift was tapping the clutch and upshift. What about WOT shifts with the clutch? My friend has an srt4 and he keeps that thing floored presses in on the clutch and grabs another gear. Can you do that with the faceplated tranny? or is that just meant so you dont miss any gears?
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Originally Posted by allthrotle
Hey Andrew, I was thinking of doing the same to mine. Mine is in a new gto. I was reading the way you found the best way to shift was tapping the clutch and upshift. What about WOT shifts with the clutch? My friend has an srt4 and he keeps that thing floored presses in on the clutch and grabs another gear. Can you do that with the faceplated tranny? or is that just meant so you dont miss any gears?
no way would I do this with a new car. its for drag racing and hardcore stuff only IMO. I've got one and I wouldn't want to DD it.
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I understand that its for hardcore and race use but, in the previous posts they also said that faceplating if streetable. My car is for the street and strip. And as far as new cars, there are plenty of other newer cars out there being chopped up and turned into race applications.
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Originally Posted by allthrotle
Hey Andrew, I was thinking of doing the same to mine. Mine is in a new gto. I was reading the way you found the best way to shift was tapping the clutch and upshift. What about WOT shifts with the clutch? My friend has an srt4 and he keeps that thing floored presses in on the clutch and grabs another gear. Can you do that with the faceplated tranny? or is that just meant so you dont miss any gears?
Andrew
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It's been exactly 60 days since I installed this transmission. I have enough practice now that most people don't even notice anyting unusual when I shift. Even my GF says its totally quiet now. Smooth daily driving is really all about the practice. I have found that pressing on the clutch too much during shifts actually causes more noise. The trick is to pause in neutral for a split second. With normal driving this delay is not even noticable, but makes a huge difference in how smoothly it goes into the next higher gear. The pause in neutral allows the RPMs to drop just enough to perfectly match for the next gear. I barely press on the clutch, maybe about 1.5"-2" inches max. This takes the load off the input shaft, yet allows enoug pressure to keep it from cluncking back and forth during the shift. Sorry I don't have any more videos. I don't have access to a video camera anymore. I don't have any regrets at all.
Andrew
Andrew
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Originally Posted by Quick96ss
what was the full price on this?? Very interested.
Andrew
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Great info guys. I read the whole dam thing! Good job. I got my tranny out getting a check up. My buddys at RPM just about had me talked into pro shifting it. They have the parts sitting there waiting on a brave soul to step up and try it.
I think I will talk with them about face plating these trannys.
I just did'nt know enough about it. I would love to try it in my car.
I think I will talk with them about face plating these trannys.
I just did'nt know enough about it. I would love to try it in my car.
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Originally Posted by CamTom12
on a side note...
Since we were earlier discussing how even a face-plated trans isn't strong enough for clutchless shifts, it got me thinking... In the motorcycle world we have a little thing called a timing-interrupt that allows clutchless shifts on transmissions (helical gears, not the stronger spur-cut. I doubt you could hurt those things anyway, haha). Think something like that would work in our case?
Since we were earlier discussing how even a face-plated trans isn't strong enough for clutchless shifts, it got me thinking... In the motorcycle world we have a little thing called a timing-interrupt that allows clutchless shifts on transmissions (helical gears, not the stronger spur-cut. I doubt you could hurt those things anyway, haha). Think something like that would work in our case?
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
I was wondering the same thing. We have a timing cut on our roadrace cars, but they have dogs and straight cut gears.
Andrew
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I wanted to give everyone a quick update. I just finished building another RX7 and I am using a light weight clutch and flywheel. WOW....does that make a huge difference in the way that the face plated transmission shifts. Its hard to explain but the transmission sort of just glides into the next gear without much clutch actuation at all. Its amazing.
I know there has been a lot of debate about the use of aluminum flywheels and other lightweight clutch components. I know for me, in my relatively lightweight car, there is no other option from now on. The dog ring boxes are very happy with lighter flywheel/clutch combinations.
Andrew
I know there has been a lot of debate about the use of aluminum flywheels and other lightweight clutch components. I know for me, in my relatively lightweight car, there is no other option from now on. The dog ring boxes are very happy with lighter flywheel/clutch combinations.
Andrew
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In a heavier car like the TA I think I'll have to stick to the steel flywheel for launch energy, but that's definately a cool comparo GatTagO.
I wish money grew on trees cause then I'd be racing again and with a faceplated trans, haha
I wish money grew on trees cause then I'd be racing again and with a faceplated trans, haha
#79
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Originally Posted by CamTom12
In a heavier car like the TA I think I'll have to stick to the steel flywheel for launch energy, but that's definately a cool comparo GatTagO.
I wish money grew on trees cause then I'd be racing again and with a faceplated trans, haha
I wish money grew on trees cause then I'd be racing again and with a faceplated trans, haha
So raising the launch RPM will hit the tires just as hard, but allow for quicker engine acceleration and quicker shifts.
For road racing or track day cars this setup is a no brainer.
Andrew