sweet. i appreciate your help,

 

You can save a lot of money youself by doing a lot of the work yourself. You can remove the trans. yourself and take the housing apart to get to the gear cluster. You can then take the gear cluster to a local trans shop to have them replace the faulty gear and syncro. You should go over the trans with a fine tooth comb especially those gears that have been giving you difficulty like 3rd and reverse. If you are popping out of gear look closely at the detents. Examine the springs and detent *****, etc to be sure all damaged or worn parts are replaced. Look closely at ALL of the teeth on every gear for signs of damage or unusual wear. You may find some shrapnel inside of the transmission when you open the housing which is a sure sign of damage. Look closely to find out where these parts of the puzzle came from to be sure your transmission is repaird properly. This ain't rocket science.

 

Six Speeds Inc. This one is for you Iam about to purchase a 02 WS6 with about 30k on the ODO. To my knowledge the car has never seen any abuse. This will be my first 6spd car so I will be learning It wont see any track use but I do want to have some fun but be safe. It will be a bolton car(maybe cam & gears down the road). What kind of maintenence do I need to get done before I get out there and start rowing through some gears. Also and this may seem dumb But I am new to the M6 does 1st gear and reverse lockout when you are going a certain speed? Thanks and this thread has been very helpfull to a newb.

 

PhantomLSX,

Not dumb questions at all. First on the maintenance issues:

1. Bleed the hydraulics and make sure the fluid in the master cylinder resivoir is nice and clean. That can cause clutch woes which will cause transmission problems.

2. Drain and replace the transmission fluid with 4 quarts of Mobil 1 ATF. That is a synthetic based fluid and the best to use. Either fill thru the fill plug or thru the shifter. It will hold more thru the shifter.

3. Make sure the clutch is engaging about even with the break pedal and all feels good. It should be a nice pedal feel. Not to hard not to soft.

The reverse lockout is suppose to activate above 3-5mph. Meaning when you are driving at speeds above that, the reverse lockout should keep you from going into reverse. It will grind horribly but that is the lockout working.

As for the skip shift, you didn't ask about that. If it does not have a skip shift eliminator, get one. If not you will have to drive 1 to 4th to save gas money. Kind of a pain in the *** if you ask me.

Hope this helps.

Amber

 

how often do you rec. bleeding the clutch? and whats the business about shimming slave cylinders and other stuff?

 

Theoretically you don't ever have to(except when a person just want to flush out the old fluid) unless you have a failure of the master, slave or hose in between. If you're using OEM parts shimming shouldn't be required, but if aftermarket parts are being used it might be necessary to compensate for the lack of clamping force.

 

amber what is the parasidic drag of a t56 just trying to judge what my trans and rear are taking away from my bottom line i remember the old rule of thunb was like 20% but i wouldnt think so with all this new stuff... do u think its more in the 10% and under range btw this has been rebuilt with all ur stuff love the way it feels anyways thanks again

 

woud anebody know if a 98 m6 camaro trane cros brase wood fit a 95 firebird 6 sped .i just bighrt a global wast track link and the gye that had it had it on a 98 and it bolted to the trans cros brase but it wont to min the 98 m6 brase has a wider cros brase and he put it to one of the hols in it min is much sciner and it is short by 1 to 2 inches to rech the compne sed it shoud fit from 02 to 93 . i think the gy got a auto one and got lucky and it fit becos his brase was a little longer ane info woud help i did a post but no one can give ane advise hers a link

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showth...64#post9313264

 

could anyone that has drilled out the hole in their floorboard to access the bleeder screw take some measurements of exactly where to put the hole please? i know it would make things a lot simpler if i, along with others, just had to take a tape measure and grid it out, rather than the guess and check method that is recommended

 

when you bleed the clutch should you do it with the cap on the master cylinder or off?

 

It doesn't really matter, but you'll have to refill it during the process so it's easier just to leave it off.

 

my clutch pedal would only get soggy at high rpm shifts. now it does it when im in traffic, when i keep going from 1st to 2nd, and rpms no higher than 1500. is it due to the same problem with the lines?

 

I believe the new rule of thumb is about 12% for an M6.

 

I just bought a 02 formula M6 w/103k miles 3 weeks ago. It's all stock and the previous owner had no idea how long the clutch had been used. First day when I drove it home (100 mile drive), everything is fine except I hit a very bad traffic (about 3-5 miles). Haven't drive a stick for countless year, I might have slipping the clutch when bad traffic. Now the clutch is acting weird and it looks like a new clutch is needed. I'm going to install the LS7 clutch kit at a shop.

Here's some quick questions:
1) How can I tell I need a rebuild or not?
2) What master and slave cylinder I should use? Adjustable, 00-02 OEM LS1 or LS6?
3) Except for the clutch kit and the 2 cylinders, what else I should/need to replace?
4) Where can I get a throwout BUSHING, instead of bearing?

Thanx alot

 

Try going up a hill in a high gear. If the engine RPM outpaces the vehicle disc is slipping. You don't have to change the master,but the slave is a must when the transmission comes out for a clutch change since the slave is concentric. Why would you want to use a brass bushing instead of a needle bearing?

 

I've been reading this forum day and nite since I bought the formula. I did the freeway test (6 gear and floor the gas), nothing wrong. The rpm and speed climb up very steady. However, it's started hard to put into 1st and R. Also, when I try to engage at 1st, the padel stick out alittle higher than the brake padel to engage the clutch now. One more thing I just notice it today. There's some weird noise if I hold it at 4k rpm. It's like a "veeeee" sound not too loud but noticable. I dunno it's from the tranny or the engine tho (I lean more towards a tranny noise).

Oh about the bushing, I read a post on page 2 mentioned use a bushing is better than a bearing for better wear and tear. That's why.

I know I might be an error stick driver. But it's only been 3 weeks and I don't even drive it that much.

 

Anyone? Amber?

 

Anyone can answer all the questions? Amber maybe? Thanx

 

I believe Six Speed Inc internet is down, i think ever since Ike.
-Joel

 

i broke the stupid bolt or its missing..its the one on the transmission * there are three* two lower and one on top..that hold the torque arm bracket together..apparently the top bolt came out? or broke off..either way i need one but damned if i know what size!! and almost nobody down here in the auto stores speaks any english that you can understand..thanks!!!