BrianMSmith

My hyraulics has apparently crapped out. Fluid is very contaminated, should be clearish DOT 3 but instead is nasty black.

Where do I drain the fluid, and how do I bleed the air?

I can't find a joint on the line to the housing where I can drain.

Thanks.

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

installuniversity.com they have a mcleoad adjustalbe install write up on there and the last couple steps is how u bleed it, u have to open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder located 2 inches above the steel braided line

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Im trying the mighty vac tonite so I'll try to let you know how that worked.

Rob Hood

You need a 7/16" short thin-walled socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet. The concept is no different than bleeding your brakes and it is very easy. I had my wife help me. Put the car up on jackstands high enough so you can lay comfortably underneath the car. You cannot see the access point directly, but you can feel it. It is at an angle and is above where the braided steel line accesses the transmission.

Remove the M/C cover and ensure the fluid level is high enough (1/4" below top edge is good). Remove the black rubber separator and clean it, then leave it aside until you are ready to put it back in. Take note of the fluid's current color. I put a small flashlight on the backside to shine through the M/C for reference.

Now, with your buddy/partner/wife ready to push/pull the clutch pedal, crawl underneath and position yourself so that you can reach the bleed valve with your fingers. Once you find it, put the socket on by itself. Then put the ratchet on the socket, ensuring the ratchet handle is lining up towards the rear of the car and is ready to rotate counter-clockwise. You should only need to move the ratchet up to the trans tunnel once maybe twice to loosen the bleed valve enough. I only had to move the ratchet once.

With your friend ready, open the bleed valve slightly and tell them to push the clutch pedal in. Fluid will slightly spurt/dribble out. Look at the color, and shut the bleed valve. Now crawl out from underneath the car and look at the M/C to verify fluid level. If your friend is able to do that so you don't have to crawl out, that's a big help.


I cycled the clutch pedal 4 times before adding fluid. I left the valve open until the fourth down stroke, then shut the valve. Then my wife would pull the clutch pedal back up and be ready for the next series of cycles. I added fluid after each series of cycles to restore the fluid level in the M/C. Each time the pedal was pushed to the floor, my wife would have to pull it back up to re-cycle it. In the end I only put 1/2 can of fluid (DOT 3) through before noticing the M/C fluid color clearing up and it clearing up as it exited the bleed valve.

The fluid will drain all over the place; ensure you wipe it up and check for residual dripping between the trans/bellhousing. That seemed to hold a bit of fluid. Make sure you get the bleed valve shut before leaving the underside of the car. Once you are done underneath, put the fluid level up to about 1/4" to 1/2" from the M/C top. Then reinstall the black rubber separator. The fluid level will rise some so take care not to spill any - brake fluid is caustic and will eat paint.

That's what worked for me, hope it works for you!

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

Could you be more clear?

Just kidding, excellent write up, i did the same when I replaced my slave, it worked well.

Rob Hood

LOL, yeah, sometimes you can't have enough info. Factory books don't have enough, even though I know they assume some level of mechanical compentence on technician's part.

jannes_z-28

I used a vacuumdevice and attached it to the reservoir, it succed most of the air out of the system. The get the clutch to engage fully I had to bleed the throwout too. You use a 11mm (or 7/16) socket and do as you do with brakes. The bleedingscrew is about 2 inches above the fluidline housing.


Jan

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

There is more than one way to bleed a M/C but they all suck...

jeffstar

iTrader: (6)

Hey great write up. Quick question. Much like a disc brake bleed. What I like to do is get the bleeder cracked open and finger tight, then put a clear tube on the bleeder port and turn it by hand (via the tube) to close it off and open it up (again via the tube) and then when I'm done bleeding, fasten the bleeder screw down all the way with a socket.

Is that possible to do? or is your only option to just let it drain all over the place?

Rob Hood

Jeff, that sounds ok, as long as the valve gets fully shut. Otherwise you may/will end up with some fluid leaking by. A guy I know on another board attached a custom-length hose that starts at the bleed port (bleed port was removed and a custom fitting attached to the hose) and the other end of the hose has the new bleed port, which he attached near the clutch M/C in the engine compartment. Never have to crawl under the car again.

JTSLP559

iTrader: (3)

Great Write Up!!!!!!! I Just Instal My Slave.. An Im Having Problems. I Attached The Mity Vac To It An Its Not Sucking Out Anything.. But Its Holding Pressure.. What Could Be Wrong????

slw ls1

iTrader: (6)

Probably a dumb question but what type of fluid are you using in the M/C. Is it just Dot 3 brake fluid?

Rob Hood

DOT 3 is fine. That's what I used.

SpdFrk1990

iTrader: (6)

I have a phoenix v12 so I might try the pressure method with injecting fluid into the resivour. My question is about the bleeder valve I have not seen it yet but does it get fluid all over is there any way to catch it all? My car is pretty clean underneath and I dont want to make a mess. Im guessing I can crack the bleeder valve and push the new fluid through and that should be it. I want to do the drill mod also so it prob wont be soo easy.