nofearracing28

iTrader: (7)

Maybe you don't have all the bolts out, if its that hard then you must have a bolt still in there.

Rob Hood

If you got all eight trans bolts off you have them all removed. Just double check the bolt count.

convexion

Okay, I went back in to have another look and decided to get some pictures.




Please, someone tell me that isn't where the bolt is supposed to be. I really hope this isn't the case... If it is, then the last son of a bitch that worked on my car broke the head off the bolt and somehow managed to forget to tell me about it. It looks like the neck is stuck in there and when I felt it there is definitely something there. I'm praying that this isn't the bolt I have to remove.

convexion

No, I only have 6 bolts out . I can't see the other two anywhere unless one of them is the remnants of whats pictured above.

MrEddie

Nope, that's not it. My tranny has never been out and I have the same thing. Those appear to be bolt ends coming in from the other direction. But, the bolt is near that area you circled - you'll have to feel for it but it's slightly under it. I was able fit a socket on there with a 20" extension and break loose from the shifter area in the car. I also noticed a notch on the passenger side of the trans/bellhousing that could be a "pry" point.

convexion

Jeez, thanks Eddie. I thought I was going to have a heart attack for the last few minutes. So just under there, huh? It's weird, I didn't feel anything at all there except the trans housing. Back out I go to check

MrEddie

I just looked at the installuniversity clutch install, and they have a good pic with what appears to be those bolt ends, and then the trans to bell bolts with arrows. The top driver side bolt is recessed and in between those two bolts - they have an arrow going to it. Check their site and see if that helps identify it.

convexion

You were right eddie, thanks. It was just recessed back further than I thought it would be. Got the driver's side out now I'm working on the passenger. These bolts are a real PITA.

MrEddie

Yep, take your time on the passenger side. I held the vent tube down with one finger and then worked the socket over the bolt - several attempts. The bolt will come out but will stay hanging on the clip that also holds the vent tube. You'll need a universal joint socket for sure. I also used a 25" or 30" inch extension with a 3/8 driver and was able break loose from under the car.

mooreperformance

iTrader: (3)

I don't use a swivel until I get to the bellhousing bolts, just use long *** extentions and keep your ratchet as parallel to the transmission as possible and nail it with an impact (make sure your socket is all the way on).

convexion

Finally got it after getting some rest. I just used 2 small wobble extensions on top of a 20" extension. It sure was a PITA. Transmission came back without effort though. Thanks for the help Eddie and the rest.

MrEddie

With the rear of the car supported with jacks at the subframe connectors and the wheels removed, once I start lowering the rear the rear axle just keeps falling. How far does it go before it stops? The only thing holding the rear in place would be the shocks/springs/sway bar, and once the torque arm is removed, does it fall more. Is this safe to just let it hang - is something going to break? Thanks!

Rob Hood

Got mine out too, although I had to completely remove the LG TA to do it. I didn't undo the exhaust either, and that made it more difficult to take the slave off.

I'm not looking forward to putting the TA back on....

convexion

Eddie, you're doing this on a kwiklift, right? I didn't even have to remove the torque arm. I was able to pry it slightly to the side to allow the transmission to be lowered. What I did end up removing was the crossover pipe as that does tend to get in the way. Just use a long thin bar, slide it up into the shifter hole, and pry the trans off to the side while pushing on the torque arm the other way and it should come right down. Make sure you support the trans well because it will drop hard if you don't. I did it in small increments to be sure that I wouldn't put too much pressure on the motor mounts.

MrEddie

Yeah, I just figured since I picked up the kwiklift bridge, it would be cool to put it to use. The thing is that when I started lowering the car on the jacks at the subframe, the rear naturally sagged, but the creaking of the springs, etc. started to freak me out, so I stopped the dropping just to make sure this would be ok.

As far as the torque arm, I guess the fact that the rear continues to sag while being connected to the tranny via the torque arm means there isn't much vertical support there anyway, so removal shouldn't drop the rear even more.

Ok, I called Kwiklift, and the guy said most just let the rear hang unsupported with no wheels (like a brake job), so I guess it’ll be ok and I’m just being paranoid.

convexion

Yeah, even though I didn't remove the t/a I went ahead and placed a couple jack stands and a bottle jack under the rear axle for a little support in case I decided to remove it and it all fit pretty well.

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

taking it out is easy , I had some trouble putting it back in all the stuff that you leave in will make it harder to put the trans back in . do yourself a favor and remove the ta .

HOSS

iTrader: (12)

you can let the rear hang, ive done that many times

MrEddie

Finally, I'll be able to drop the trans today (hopefully). My question is on the best way to remove the torque arm bracket. There's a long bolt going through the tail of the transmission (see pic). Do you just pry this thing off - it's a pretty long *** bolt. Thanks!

convexion

If I remember correctly what I did was just pull the torque arm towards the driver's side and with a little manipulating you should be able to pull the bolt out by hand.