convexion

Okay, i need a little help. This is my first time trying to remove the T56 from my '02 Z28 and this is really the most in depth mechanical thing I've done so please bear with me if some of what I ask is noobish. Okay, so I have a few concerns. I have a helms manual that I'm using along with the installuniversity article. Also, I have the car on a kwiklift with all 4 wheels down as I can't use the centerlift bridge right now.

Okay, here is what I'm confused about. The helms manual directs me to remove the torque arm, the left cat, and also the starter motor. Is this necessary? I was told on another post that removing the torque arm would cause the rear axle to fail. And I don't see anything on the installuniversity article that suggests removing either the starter, the cat, or the torque arm. If I don't remove the torque arm and just take off the bolt attaching to the transmission will I have to worry about the rear axle failing?

Please help, don't want to kill me or my car the first time removing the tranny.

POC

iTrader: (7)

The axle cant fall if the wheels are still on the ramps.

Or are you meaning fail...like break?

convexion

Thanks for replying. But could the axle roll? And isn't the torque arm under load when the wheels are down? Just want to make sure it isn't going to slam into my face as soon as I loosen it. I've been scouring different forums for info and it seems that there is no info on removing a torque arm with the wheels supported instead of the axle itself. The last thing I want is the axle to roll forward and watch my car drop onto the lift with me under it.

convexion

BTW, I've already removed the driveshaft. Is it still necessary to completely remove the t/a or can I just remove the upper t/a mount going to the transmission?

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Here are some answers: You do not have to remove the starter. You don't have to remove the cat either but it is easier if you take the ypipe off. I didn't but I believe I would on my second time around. It's really not that hard with it on though. You do have to remove the upper t/a mount that is attached to the transmission (2 nuts on passenger side and one bolt on the driver side. You just have to take the 3 off and use something to slightly pry the t/a down. It won't cause you rear to fail because all it does is reduce will hop and getting sideways. I promise it wont kill you. If you read the installuniversity article again it tells you how to take it off. Let us know if you have any questions throughout the procedure (especially if you do the pilot bearing).

Josh

convexion

thank you much for shedding some light on this, good to know it won't kill me as someone mentioned it being unsafe to remove the torque arm under just the load of having the wheels down on another post. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out connexion, thanks again.

MrEddie

I'll be dropping my transmission for the first time tomorrow with a kwiklift as well. I have the bolts loosened, electrical connections undone, and shifter removed. I have a american forge and foundry trans/diff jack to lower the trans. I discovered however that the kwiklift raises the trans higher than the trans jack will reach, but using some plywood to support the jack will allow it to reach/support the trans. All I need to do is drain the trans, undo the driveshart, torque arm, crossmember, and lower the sucker.

convexion

Yeah, I had the same problem with the kwiklift. Ended up putting a 2" inch thick block of pinewood under it and it fits perfectly

Rob Hood

Do you need to drain the trans prior to dropping it? I'm getting ready to take mine out and didn't see any mention of that on installuniversity.com's write-up.

convexion

I did drain it simply to make it lighter when it comes time to lift it up onto my workbench.

Blk97WS6

iTrader: (19)

trust me your going to want to remove your y-pipe. its going to make things alot easier. when i did mine i also removed the starter(my not have had to, but its only two bolts and neither are hard to get to).
you can drain the trans if you want, alot is going to poor out of it anyway. good luck!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

On my friends 2000 (with headers) we pulled the y pipe (and snapped off most of the collector bolts). On my 2002 (with stock y pipe and exhaust), we pulled the trans without touching the exhaust (and it wasn't a big deal to do so).

The axle can "roll", but the shocks and phb will resist that motion. I'm not a fan of being under a car that's only being supported by the shocks (if they bend, kink or break, the axle could rotate and let the springs fall out and that thing is coming down considerably at that point, same for the PHB bending, or you might tweek it by loading it like that). Have I done it? Yes, once, long ago. Do I recommend it? Not if you can avoid it. Put the rear of the chassis on a pair of jack stands, you'll be much safer (not under the axle, but under the sub frames in the rear, and don't crush the fuel filter while you're doing it).

It's not a bad job, I've done 2 of them (and swapped both 5 and 6 speeds into 3rd gens that were automatics).

MrEddie

With the kwiklift positioned so that the jacks on the bridge are right under the subframe (see pic on driver side, next to fuel lines (eeek)), it looks like the only jacking point with the bottlejack will be the rear of the torque arm itself. I don't think this will be a problem but just wanted to check. After rereading, I'm thinking of picking up a bottlejack and just supporting the rear just to eliminate that fear. Thanks!

convexion

How in the hell do you get the trans off the bellhousing?!? I've gotten all the bolts removed, I've disconnected everything and I can't get the little bastard to move so much as a fraction of an inch. I read that it can be tough due to the dowels, but this is ridiculous. Can I pry it off with a screwdriver without worry of damaging anything?

Sonic28

iTrader: (1)

Just be patient. I had the same problems with mine. I used some big pry bars, and slowly worked around the trans to get it to break free. You will also have similiar problems getting it to go back in. Just take your time, it will break free.

convexion

Man, none of my pry bars fit. How big are you talking? Cause it's a razor thin gap down there between the trans and bellhousing. I've been working at it for the past couple hours and the only progress I made has been creating a small chip in the bellhousing. I feel like I'm missing something here.

Also, I only had to remove 6 bolts from the trans. It looks like the last mechanic that worked on it decided to leave the top two out. To be sure, I should be able to see the top ones from under the transmission right? I see what *looks* like the holes for the two but I want to be sure I'm looking at the right spot.

Thanks for your help

convexion

Also, I keep reading that it would be good to support the engine but a lot of the pics I've seen including those on installuniversity don't show the engine being supported. Is it really necessary?

nofearracing28

iTrader: (7)

I don't think you have to in f-body's. Just Corvettes I think.

Just shake the trans up and down pretty hard, pry some, shake more, pry some, and on and on.

MrEddie

What about spraying it with WD-40 and letting it sit overnight? Also, if you have a tranny jack, I've heard you can raise/lower slightly while trying to remove. Oh, and you have a kwiklift, so the tranny should be close to level, which I also hear is important or the dowels could be jammed. I couldn't really see the two top bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing, but I could feel them. I'd double check to make sure they're not still there.

I have the rear supported and will work on removing my trans this week. I'm hoping I can get it loose.

convexion

Yeah, my kwiklift is in my driveway though which has a slight incline. Very slight but maybe enough to make a difference. I'll go feel around and see if I can find those bolts again because I am getting absolutely nowhere. I'm shaving off more bellhousing than anything else.