Rebuilding my tranny to make it stronger, need help
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Well Ive had my tranny rebuilt twice now by AAMCO and to say the least I will never bring my car there ever again. The only reason I used them is b/c thats the only company I can take my car to under the extended warranty for the transmission.
Well now Im having synchro problems again. Reverse is almost impossible to get into. And if I get on it at all or do one pass at the track, almost every single gear is impossible to get into untill I slow down to about 10mph.
So now Im taking upon myself to rebuild the transmission with the help of a friend thats done it before. But this time, Im spending the money to make sure very reliable and strong parts go into it. So what I need to know is what the best things to do are to make it stronger. Such as synchros, forks, stop bolts, anything that will ensure I dont have to deal with this for awhile again. What does it take to make it more Viper/Corvette spec. And anyplace that anyone can recommend to buy parts from such as t56rebuilds.com or anyplace else online.
Also, does anyone have the part # to gmpartsdirect.com for a ls6 clutch/ls1 flywheel? Ill be changing those while the tranny is out of the car.
Thanks for anyones help! Its appreciated!
Well now Im having synchro problems again. Reverse is almost impossible to get into. And if I get on it at all or do one pass at the track, almost every single gear is impossible to get into untill I slow down to about 10mph.
So now Im taking upon myself to rebuild the transmission with the help of a friend thats done it before. But this time, Im spending the money to make sure very reliable and strong parts go into it. So what I need to know is what the best things to do are to make it stronger. Such as synchros, forks, stop bolts, anything that will ensure I dont have to deal with this for awhile again. What does it take to make it more Viper/Corvette spec. And anyplace that anyone can recommend to buy parts from such as t56rebuilds.com or anyplace else online.
Also, does anyone have the part # to gmpartsdirect.com for a ls6 clutch/ls1 flywheel? Ill be changing those while the tranny is out of the car.
Thanks for anyones help! Its appreciated!
#2
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Carbon Blocker Rings- $169
Billet 3-4 Keys- $75
Bronze 1-4 Fork Pads- $60
Steel 3-4 Fork - $39
1/2 Slider Assembly - $115
3/4 Slider Assembly- $115
New style 2nd Gear- $129
Snap Ring Kit- $51
These are the things that tend to wear and most likely have issues with. I would recommend replacing those things as well as taking a close look at all of the other gears, sliders and bearings. Replace all of the snap rings if it has been apart more than once is always recommended. Hope this helps.
Have a great weekend!
Amber
Billet 3-4 Keys- $75
Bronze 1-4 Fork Pads- $60
Steel 3-4 Fork - $39
1/2 Slider Assembly - $115
3/4 Slider Assembly- $115
New style 2nd Gear- $129
Snap Ring Kit- $51
These are the things that tend to wear and most likely have issues with. I would recommend replacing those things as well as taking a close look at all of the other gears, sliders and bearings. Replace all of the snap rings if it has been apart more than once is always recommended. Hope this helps.
Have a great weekend!
Amber
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well considering I have no money like that, then Im going to have to say f' it, im screwed. Ill replace the synchros and snap rings and put a new clutch in it and just stop racing it
thanks for the help though!
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thanks for the help though!
Last edited by FBodyPerformer; 02-25-2007 at 01:05 AM.
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Something isn't making sense here. Not sure what power you're making but an Ls6 clutch is going to hold but the transmission won't? These transmissions are pretty strong, when did your problems start that you had AAMCO rebuild it?
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I bought the car used (second owner) from carmax in nov. 2004. I immediately started racing and learning how to race the car. It was my first manual car, not to mention muscle car. I think it took about 2 months of racing and the tranny went the first time. Shifter couldnt even move. Bent shift forks, bad synchros and stop bolts. AAMCO rebuilt it in probaly a day or two. Put a new LS6 clutch in it at the same time. Only a couple months later not even racing it that much the tranny went again. Took it back to AAMCO. Now this time, all of a sudden they want to put in all new parts. I dont get why they didnt do this the first time. But this time they wanted to say that the tranny has been getting abused which is BS. They just didnt rebuild it right the first time. Thats why it went a 2nd time and they had to do all new parts in it. But now my extended warranty company wont cover it b/c AAMCO said I was abusing it.
Well its been a year and half and Ive been off and on racing. Went to the track friday night and on 2 passes I had problems with missing gears cause the synchros are bad and the gear was impossible to get into. I get to the end of the track and all the gears feel jammed and until I slowed down enough I couldnt get into any gear. Since then its driving better. The reverse was realy bad, I had to really push to get it into reverse. But thats starting to get a little easier also.
So thats why Im rebuilding the tranny myself, to make sure its done right this time. I had people watch me shift, and I dont do anything wrong. The most I can think of is maybe shifting too hard? I have stock hurst shifter with a Lou's short stick
Amber- Ill be ordering parts from you as soon as I can. I think im going go with a new clutch, synchros, 3-4 shift fork and the snap rings. Should I look into different stop bolts?
Well its been a year and half and Ive been off and on racing. Went to the track friday night and on 2 passes I had problems with missing gears cause the synchros are bad and the gear was impossible to get into. I get to the end of the track and all the gears feel jammed and until I slowed down enough I couldnt get into any gear. Since then its driving better. The reverse was realy bad, I had to really push to get it into reverse. But thats starting to get a little easier also.
So thats why Im rebuilding the tranny myself, to make sure its done right this time. I had people watch me shift, and I dont do anything wrong. The most I can think of is maybe shifting too hard? I have stock hurst shifter with a Lou's short stick
Amber- Ill be ordering parts from you as soon as I can. I think im going go with a new clutch, synchros, 3-4 shift fork and the snap rings. Should I look into different stop bolts?
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#8
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Just becasue you shift "hard" doesnt mean its a fast shift at all.....I could out shift my buddy all day long with my quick action shift...
He just thinks shifting super hard is faster for some reason....He also went through 2 trannies
He just thinks shifting super hard is faster for some reason....He also went through 2 trannies
#10
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Originally Posted by 02SOMWS6
billet slider keys would be a good upgrade. My tranny is pretty much stock besides billet slider keys and it's been holding up so far
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So a synchro kit (most likely carbon fiber), steel 3-4 shift fork, and billet slider keys? Do I need them for every gear? Im still trying to learn a lot about the tranny.
And shift softer? lol
And shift softer? lol
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Well Im a little happy about something. I realized that today in order to get it into gear I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. I never had to do this before. So, Im hoping that the tranny isnt bad, its just the clutch is gone and the hydrolics and the pedal are at the farthest they can go. Could this just be the problem with why the tranny didnt want to shift right? If the hydrolics are messed up too, then that would explain it also. Thoughts please?
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Yeah the clutch is involved as much as the actual transmission. When I changed my clutch out my hydraulic line broke off of my slave cylinder and all my fluid leaked out. Since then I've had to bleed it a lot as air gets worked through the system. Before I bleed it every time it gets real notchey and rough, little bleeding with the mity-vac and afterwards it shifts like a dream. Plus if your clutch is slipping bad enough you wont be able to shift either.
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Originally Posted by FBodyPerformer
Well Im a little happy about something. I realized that today in order to get it into gear I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. I never had to do this before. So, Im hoping that the tranny isnt bad, its just the clutch is gone and the hydrolics and the pedal are at the farthest they can go. Could this just be the problem with why the tranny didnt want to shift right? If the hydrolics are messed up too, then that would explain it also. Thoughts please?
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Ive never had to before. The clutch engages/disengages without pushing the clutch pedal in even half way. Its never been a problem before, and Ive been told by a hell of a lot more experienced people that it was a good way to do it, especially at the track to shorten the time it takes to shift.
Originally Posted by Z284U2TRY
I don't know about you man but I have always pushed my clutch to the floor. f bodies seem to engage different depending on what your tranny/clutch combo is. But for a stock zo6 clutch and tranny. I suggest pushing it all the way down.