FootLbs

iTrader: (7)

Cool deal... I mean.. not so cool deal because I have to replace my clutch, but at least I have pin-pointed the problem.

Wrencher, You think a ram dual disk will do the trick? (I'll replace the slave while im there). I don't want to give up on my t56 just yet!!!

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

I havent heard alot on the twins. The Ram stuff I have seen has always been good though.
I run a McLeod twin & have been happy with it.
get an adjustable master too IMO.

BAGN

What size drill bit do you use?

FootLbs

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like a plan

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

I have an ls6 clutch and i'm going to wrap the line in the morning and then get it bled very soon. I hope this fixes the problem! If not i'll try the drill mod. I'm adding some spray soon as well so we'll see what happens

ConfusedGarage

iTrader: (2)

Sometimes true, but not always. I spent a ton on a textralia Oz700 Z grip and new slave, pilot, with the drill mod on my old master plus a flush. The pedal from day one has gripped at the floor (not a chance it was a pp bolt backing out), way to low to speed shift. Byun and Text both said to replace the master, which I am about to do, but I doubt it will help. I am about to sell all of my **** and go with an 03 Cobra.

SSblack98

iTrader: (8)

Engaging right off the floor can also be solved by putting a shim behind the slave cylinder. Spec usually includes one with there clutches. Tex should also in case it is necessary.

Proud2bSS

iTrader: (2)

I just changed my z06 clutch to a SPEC Stage 2. Since I bought PP,disk, and FW as a set slightly used from a member, I did not have a shim for the slave. My pedal engages almost instantly from the floor, unlike my z06 clutch. I assume that is due to the shim being needed.

Can I fabricate my own shim? Anyone know the thickness required?
I will talk to SPEC tomorrow and see if they sell them separately....

Ranger

Guys, take a read through this: Taking Care of Your Clutch

If you're suffering clutch pedal woes the place to start is cleaning up the fluid in the clutch hydraulics. Frequent full bleeds are best. But it can also be cleaned up via the clutch reservoir, a process I've followed for six years through more than 500 passes without pedal issues. So the low-tech, inexpensive process works fine.

Ranger

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

^^^Agreed, I have said the same thing, it is a part of maitence for these cars IMO.

Ranger

Hi Wrencher. I support your view.

We know the fluid change protocol won't solve all clutch issues, but if the fluid is kept clean and clear, that mean zero murkiness, it will preclude most issues.

Conversely, if you suffer pedal woes, the first step should be the self-help procedure of cleaning up the fluid. If it's made truly clean again but the woes persist, then move on the more difficult and expensive paths.

Clean fluid makes for a happy clutch.

Ranger

Gary Z

Ranger, Wrencher,

After my latest clutch failure, I was tempted by the darkside (TH350). You guys have inspired me to keep the faith. Thanks for the information and encouragement.

Ranger

Good luck Gary. If you go the reservoir route, plan on 10-20 changes of the reservoir with pedal pushes in between. Works best if done in one or at most two continuous sessions. I can easily do 10 swaps in an hour working alone. So total time invested is generally well less than two hours. It's faster if you have a helper to push the clutch pedal; that way you don't have to keep cleaning your hands before climbing into the car.

Let us know how it goes.

Ranger

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

I bleed mine one man style.
With a remote bleeder I connect a Mity-vac to the outlet.
Put a little sil-glide on the threads ot the bleeder if it dont seal well with it opened up to bleed.
Then drain the reservoir with a syringe.
Refil with clean fluid. Then proceed to pull a vacuum & pull the fluid in normal flow direction w/ the Mity-vac brake fluid bleeding attachment.
I keep doing it till it comes out clean.
I usually keep an eye on the fluid color & flush by the look of it.
I have had good luck with the valvoline syn-power DOT3.

I have been able to do this & keep my McLeod master cylinder working correctly.
Has been great for 3-4 years now.
I street/strip my car alot. I usually end up flushing after track visits.
when I dont tyhe pedal changes & I know it's flush time.
A fluid change & all is well again.


I would like to make a sticky out of this stuff because I have found myself repeating the fluid flush advice constantly.
It helps out a ton people!

gatesjeff33

I just change the fluid in the reservoir in the morning real quick, then drive to work. Repeat this 10 times and you will have much cleaner fluid.

Right now I am looking for a larger reservoir that holds about a pint of fluid so I can just suck out the old stuff and pour in a 16 oz bottle and be done with it in one shot

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Your other one was better. This ones only nine years old. You're slipping

lsx55

AKA Remote Clutch Bleeder.