Wtf Man!?!?
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From: Wilmington NC
Wtf Man!?!? Ok me and a buddy have just done my a4 to m6 swap. We took it down the road and the clutch just doesnt feel right. It will catch as soon as you release it from the ground. When we were coming back home the tranny grinded going into 4th gear twice. We re-bled the clutch one more time with the same shitty results. Our conclusion is a new master will be needed. What do you guys think?? Could the bad master cause the tranny to grind?? I sure hope so, the last thing i wanna do is pull that damn thing out again.
Originally Posted by FNQUIKWS6
Ok me and a buddy have just done my a4 to m6 swap. We took it down the road and the clutch just doesnt feel right. It will catch as soon as you release it from the ground. When we were coming back home the tranny grinded going into 4th gear twice. We re-bled the clutch one more time with the same shitty results. Our conclusion is a new master will be needed. What do you guys think?? Could the bad master cause the tranny to grind?? I sure hope so, the last thing i wanna do is pull that damn thing out again.
Are you sure the trans was any good to start with? I would go back and re-bleed the system with one of the methods listed here( do a search). Was the master bench-bled before install? You will have a really hard time getting all the air out if you installed it drained down. Even if you get new parts, the process is the same. Work with what you have untill you are sure you need replacements.
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We bled the hell out of that thing. The clutch is a brand new spec stage 2. The master wasnt new, and is the stock one. We filled it up with fluid before it was installed and pressed the end piece to let out some fluid out.
I agree with spec, after my tranny, clutch and flywheel install, my pedal was engaging right off the floor too, I didn't realize I needed the shim, put it in and made a world of difference. I bled the system after that to make sure, and works slick as can be now, I know its a pita but you'll have to drop her again.
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TECH Apprentice
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From: Wilmington NC
The clutch releases as soon as you let off the pedal. Just doesnt feel right. we think that all the air built up in the hydraulics could possibly make it grind. Im praying its not a sychronizer.
That was my issue too, even with the pedal to the floor, it wouldn't engage the clutch. I had to order a bigger shim from RAM or I had a machinist buddy make me one the specified thickness. If you measure the distance between the slave (all the way compressed) and the flanges where the tranny bolts up to the bell housing and subtract the distance between the fingers on the clutch and the bellhousing flange, it should only be .125" (I know it seems small, but it needs to be between .125" and .150", use a digital micrometer) If not then you have to add the appropriate thickness of shim to bring the slave cyl closer to the fingers to give you more free travel in the pedal. Mine would grind into only 3rd and 4th after my first shim, but does not with the thicker one.
Also, if you get it close and think its good, you'll end up having to change your synchros, you will think you get the pedal all the way to the floor when you shift, and you actually might when just cruising around, but when you are racing more than likely you will shift a little early, thus damaging the syncros.
Considering that the shim is in place then this looks more and more like air in the line. Bleed the system until you are blue in the face and then bleed it some more. These cars have a tendency to be difficult to bleed. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,