LT1 specific clutch questions...
06-27-2007, 10:58 AM
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LT1 specific clutch questions... After reading the FAQ sticky I have a few questions regarding my clutch swap.
Is the LT1 system different from the LS1's? If so...
Things I'd like to know before I start this whole ordeal.
not to mention its less than stellar performance. I definately don't want to go through the whole process of a clutch install only to find out that there was something I could have taken care of while I had it apart. Also, if anyone wants to chime in with their experiences with an aftermarket clutch on their bolt-on LT1, please feel free 
Alan
Is the LT1 system different from the LS1's? If so...
Things I'd like to know before I start this whole ordeal.
not to mention its less than stellar performance. I definately don't want to go through the whole process of a clutch install only to find out that there was something I could have taken care of while I had it apart. Also, if anyone wants to chime in with their experiences with an aftermarket clutch on their bolt-on LT1, please feel free Alan
06-27-2007, 07:52 PM
#3
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by A-man930
After reading the FAQ sticky I have a few questions regarding my clutch swap.
Is the LT1 system different from the LS1's? If so...
LT1s use a pull style clutch, where as ls1s use a push. What this means is the slave cylinder pushes on a clutch fork which goes around the throwout bearing and pulls the pressure plate fingers off the clutch allowing the clutch to release.
Things I'd like to know before I start this whole ordeal.
Always have the flywheel resurfaced. Even if you only have to take off 5 thousandths, always get it resurfaced. It will more then likely have hot spots anyways/
Yes, normally the sign of a bad throwout bearing, but in my experiences all throwout bearings in lt1s make some noise.
not to mention its less than stellar performance. I definately don't want to go through the whole process of a clutch install only to find out that there was something I could have taken care of while I had it apart. Also, if anyone wants to chime in with their experiences with an aftermarket clutch on their bolt-on LT1, please feel free
Alan
Is the LT1 system different from the LS1's? If so...
LT1s use a pull style clutch, where as ls1s use a push. What this means is the slave cylinder pushes on a clutch fork which goes around the throwout bearing and pulls the pressure plate fingers off the clutch allowing the clutch to release.
Things I'd like to know before I start this whole ordeal.
Always have the flywheel resurfaced. Even if you only have to take off 5 thousandths, always get it resurfaced. It will more then likely have hot spots anyways/
Yes, normally the sign of a bad throwout bearing, but in my experiences all throwout bearings in lt1s make some noise.
not to mention its less than stellar performance. I definately don't want to go through the whole process of a clutch install only to find out that there was something I could have taken care of while I had it apart. Also, if anyone wants to chime in with their experiences with an aftermarket clutch on their bolt-on LT1, please feel free Alan
Change your rear main seal while your in there, and oil pan gasket if your feeling up to it. You don't have to remove the pan from the car, just unbolt it, clean everything up and then slide the new gasket around the outside of the pan.
Swivels are your friend. Use a torque wrench. If memory serves me right, pressure plates are 22 ft/lbs? and flywheel is 74 ft/lbs? don't quote me on that though and use blue loctite
I am using a mcleod single disk clutch and a autozone pressure plate(I bought the clutch kit, it costs 200$ and comes with alignment tool, bushing, pressure plate, throwout bearing and clutch disc, I didn't use the disc) with a stock resurfaced flywheel. No complaints and cost me about 380-400$ and have about 1500 miles on it so far and everythings mint, gotten on it about 2 times so far and it hasn't slipped at all. Drives just like stock except for alittle chatter if you try and slip it too much.
Use a pilot bushing, not a bearing.
All pressure plates for lt1s are the same, except when you buy a mcleod or a spec, its painted and costs a bunch more. They are all made by valeo.
Anyother questions feel free to ask, I just changed out my clutch in front of my house on jackstands not that long ago.
06-28-2007, 06:00 PM
#5
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought the duralast clutch kit from autozone and used everything except the disc. I bought a mcleod disc from either summit or jegs, I don't remember.
I had an automotive machine shop resurface my stock flywheel, I didn't replace it.
I had an automotive machine shop resurface my stock flywheel, I didn't replace it.
06-28-2007, 08:06 PM
#6
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ahh, I misread. So it cost ya around $400 huh? Why you didn't just get the kit from Mcleod of someone? What about any other things I should do while the tranny's out?
EDIT: I'm retarded, I get it now
The only difference between an OEM replacement kit from the local parts store and an aftermarket one is the disc. Now what should I do as far as hydrolics? What do I need to replace/bleed or otherwise mess with?
EDIT: I'm retarded, I get it now
The only difference between an OEM replacement kit from the local parts store and an aftermarket one is the disc. Now what should I do as far as hydrolics? What do I need to replace/bleed or otherwise mess with? Last edited by A-man930; 06-29-2007 at 05:22 PM.
Trending Topics
06-29-2007, 05:40 PM
#8
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by A-man930
Ahh, I misread. So it cost ya around $400 huh? Why you didn't just get the kit from Mcleod of someone? What about any other things I should do while the tranny's out?
EDIT: I'm retarded, I get it now The only difference between an OEM replacement kit from the local parts store and an aftermarket one is the disc. Now what should I do as far as hydrolics? What do I need to replace/bleed or otherwise mess with?
EDIT: I'm retarded, I get it now
The only difference between an OEM replacement kit from the local parts store and an aftermarket one is the disc. Now what should I do as far as hydrolics? What do I need to replace/bleed or otherwise mess with?Defintely do the rear main seal while you have it out.
And yea a mcleod pressure plate I think is 330$ and only difference between that one and one you can get anywhere else is its painted and costs alot more. lol
Ttheres not really much else to do, maybe a new shifter.
If you really wanna go nuts like I did you could paint the floor pans with por15 www.por15.com
07-01-2007, 01:11 AM
#9
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aww man, por15 is pretty cool stuff. But I'll probly just clean everything up a bit and rattle can it if anything. I guess what I'm asking is should I bother replacing the slave cyl, or do the drill mod (if it even applies), or insulate something, etc... I read the manual transmission faq sticky and I just don't know how much of that applies to the LT1 pull-style system...
07-05-2007, 06:52 PM
#12
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If your hydraulics are working, I would leave it be, lt1 hydraulics are easy to replace, you can have the tranny in the car and still replace the slave/master if you have problems.. I don't think there is a drill mod for lt1s, I didn't do one, and mines fine. I don't know what you'd insulate, so don't worry about that.
