>>ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL OR BILLET STELL FLYWHEEL????????
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>>aluminum Flywheel Or Billet Steel Flywheel????????
hay guys i will be changing my clutch soon and just wanted to ask if i can be ok with buying the fodenza light wight flywheel? the car is lightly modded which will see some track time but mostly it will be used on the streets, and the clutch i am thinking of going with either is the stock setup again or spec 1 or 2 clutch or the centerforce dual friction. but i really want to buy the flywheel but i heard some bad things about the aluminum over the steel and i wanna know wat are the advantages and disadvantages. thanks guyys
Last edited by ae13291; 07-12-2007 at 05:04 PM.
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Alot of people well tell you the steel is better for drag racing, I LOVE my aluminum. yes to get the same torque out of the hole you have to rev a little higher (only really applies if dumping clutch on slicks dead hooking) but once you do that the car reves aALOT faster, and on the street the car just jump whn the touch the gas. makes big difference.
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hummm i really want to get the aluminum, well my car pulls reallly hard in all gears but lik when i go WOT from 1st to 2nd its pulling hard but the rpm just isent flying by as fast as i expect it, but i dont know it could just be me probly lol thanks alot guys
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y not get a aluminum with steel insert. thats what im running and had it for 10,000 miles works great http://www.lmperformance.com/1904/1.html
Last edited by Disturbed Bird; 07-10-2007 at 05:11 PM.
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Get the aluminum flywheel even if you drag race. Old school thought is steel. The aluminum will rev faster, yes you will have to launch harder but it is more consistant.
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FWIW I was in the same boat. I decided to compromise and get the Billet Steel. I want to do a little of everything in my car. The RAM Billet is lighter than stock, but heavier than the Fidanza.
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"y not get a aluminum with steel insert."
um...what do you think the fidanza fw has?? aluminum isn't gonna take the abuse of the friction pucks of a clutch.
i have the fidanza 13lb flywheel on my cammed ls1...stage 4 clutch...
from a stop it takes some practice to not bog...but alot of that is from the solid clutch disc...which makes for VERY little slip
if you don't drag much...you'll enjoy the faster reving and increased rwhp from the light flywheel.
um...what do you think the fidanza fw has?? aluminum isn't gonna take the abuse of the friction pucks of a clutch.
i have the fidanza 13lb flywheel on my cammed ls1...stage 4 clutch...
from a stop it takes some practice to not bog...but alot of that is from the solid clutch disc...which makes for VERY little slip
if you don't drag much...you'll enjoy the faster reving and increased rwhp from the light flywheel.
#12
If your going to run a aluminum flywheel on a street car,you have to check it once and a while. Extreme heat, like clutch slippage that dual friction clutches tend to love [they'll get more grippy with heat] will cause aluminum flywheels more than steel to crack & distort over time and possibly have catastrophic failure!Just what i've read.Do your own research or talk to a few reputable trany shops.scatter sheild is a good investment.I'm sticking to steel.
Last edited by zenith396; 07-11-2007 at 11:02 PM.
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Steel flywheels are better for driveablity due to the inerita (look at it this way it takes more power to get the flywheel moving if it's heavier and the same goes that it takes more to slow it down) so with that said if you run a alum. flywheel it will rev faster but it will also be easier to stall the motor which means that you have to give it more gas or slip the clutch more when starting from a stop.
With a stock drivetrain you can sit a stop sign or red light and when pulling out you don't have to hardly give the car any gas as you pull out thats due to the weight of the flywheel.
With an Alum. you will have to rev the motor more and keep it going which will increase the possiblity of premature clutch wear or burning it up all together.
Now I'm not saying that Alum. doesn't have its benifits they do but for what I gather from your thread, your looking for more driveablity. I don't see that much in performance loss for your applacantion.
Alum flywheels take a little bit of getting used to.
With a stock drivetrain you can sit a stop sign or red light and when pulling out you don't have to hardly give the car any gas as you pull out thats due to the weight of the flywheel.
With an Alum. you will have to rev the motor more and keep it going which will increase the possiblity of premature clutch wear or burning it up all together.
Now I'm not saying that Alum. doesn't have its benifits they do but for what I gather from your thread, your looking for more driveablity. I don't see that much in performance loss for your applacantion.
Alum flywheels take a little bit of getting used to.
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Originally Posted by zenith396
If your going to run a aluminum flywheel on a street car,you have to check it once and a while. Extreme heat, like clutch slippage that dual friction clutches tend to love [they'll get more grippy with heat] will cause aluminum flywheels more than steel to crack & distort over time and possibly have catastrophic failure!Just what i've read.Do your own research or talk to a few reputable trany shops.scatter sheild is a good investment.I'm sticking to steel.
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wow so many different suggestions, i know i will get used to the driving of aluminum flywheel, but so now if i am not mistakeing the only benifit of steel is the launch!! right??
#16
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I'm doing this same decision process right now as well.
Oh yeah, bringing a post back from the dead, but again, that's what the search function is for.
I rarely ever see the track.... strike that, I never go to the track because that's where I break stuff, and that got old real quick.
Here's my take on the light flywheel issue. I'm getting the impression from searching and reading that it's like a huge cam in that it kills the low end, initial take off etc. The cure I think for both of these mods (cam and flywheel) is to go with larger gears. A set of 3.73 gears would help a cam just as well as help a lighter flywheel.
As it is, I've got to baby the car out of the hole because of street tires, 3.73s and the extra power. So if I need to take away from a stop at 1200 rpm rather than 1000 rpm, so be it.
Is the Fidanza the lightest flywheel at 12.5lbs? Are there any that are lighter?
Oh yeah, bringing a post back from the dead, but again, that's what the search function is for.
I rarely ever see the track.... strike that, I never go to the track because that's where I break stuff, and that got old real quick.
Here's my take on the light flywheel issue. I'm getting the impression from searching and reading that it's like a huge cam in that it kills the low end, initial take off etc. The cure I think for both of these mods (cam and flywheel) is to go with larger gears. A set of 3.73 gears would help a cam just as well as help a lighter flywheel.
As it is, I've got to baby the car out of the hole because of street tires, 3.73s and the extra power. So if I need to take away from a stop at 1200 rpm rather than 1000 rpm, so be it.
Is the Fidanza the lightest flywheel at 12.5lbs? Are there any that are lighter?
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I put a Fidanza alum flywheel along with a Spec lightweight stg 3 clutch on my '99 Z and loved it! It was just a bolt-on car w/4.10s but pulled so hard after the change over it was great. The car was just a fun street toy for the most part but launching at the dragstrip was fine (1.76 was my best I believe), just took some more RPM. I was going to resurface my stock flywheel but ended up getting a good deal on the Fidanza and IMO it was the better decision.
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"it's like a huge cam in that it kills the low end, initial take off etc. The cure I think for both of these mods (cam and flywheel) is to go with larger gears. A set of 3.73 gears would help a cam just as well as help a lighter flywheel."
well...kindda.
the light flywheel doesn't "hurt" your low end. it affects how the the initial clutch engagement/launch acts. once the clutch is engaged (no longer slipping) the light flywheel is ONLY a benefit.
its not like a big cam that only runs good in high rpms, which is why gears are a benefit...they get you in the upper rpms faster.
and basically its as simple as reving 200-300 more rpms to pull out from a stop than with a stock/steel flywheel. sometimes i'll get a little more shudder and bog down from a light...but its not a big deal.
i believe the fidanza is the lightest. not sure you'd want to go any lighter. its already more than 1/2 that of the stocker.
i pulled my clutch out after 5000+ miles of street driving on a Stage 4 clutch. the flywheel looked good and the clutch only lost .03" of material, out of an expected clutch life loss of over .30" i think.
well...kindda.
the light flywheel doesn't "hurt" your low end. it affects how the the initial clutch engagement/launch acts. once the clutch is engaged (no longer slipping) the light flywheel is ONLY a benefit.
its not like a big cam that only runs good in high rpms, which is why gears are a benefit...they get you in the upper rpms faster.
and basically its as simple as reving 200-300 more rpms to pull out from a stop than with a stock/steel flywheel. sometimes i'll get a little more shudder and bog down from a light...but its not a big deal.
i believe the fidanza is the lightest. not sure you'd want to go any lighter. its already more than 1/2 that of the stocker.
i pulled my clutch out after 5000+ miles of street driving on a Stage 4 clutch. the flywheel looked good and the clutch only lost .03" of material, out of an expected clutch life loss of over .30" i think.
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12.5 lb aluminum fidanza here, and if you like to snap your freinds necks at a high rpm, get it! When I made the switch I was skeptical, but I love it. My car revs so much faster, when Im in 1st or 2nd or even 3rd, I tap the gas, and the passenger is helpless in keeping their heads from hitting the back of the seat, haha lol!