T56 rebuilders... Is this1-2 synchronizer usable?
#1
T56 rebuilders... Is this1-2 synchronizer usable?
There's a pic of both sides. This is my first trany rebuild so I was wondering what you guys thought. There a little rounded but I never had any problems with 1st or second gear. I'm rebuilding the trany because of 3rd and 4th...
#2
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I would use with some cleaning up to the points with a small angle grinder and a 120 grit pad . The important parts to look at are jut below the points where the angle changes and gets narrow . That is the area that gets "tappered" and lets the gear pop out after you put it into gear . Now thats not saying the points are not important . If they are all flat or almost worn down , then replace the part .
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I have rebuilt my trans 3 times, and I would not use it. From the pics it appears the engagement teeth are pretty rounded. It will cause hard/notchy shifting. A new syncrho is ~100 from six speeds inc. Worth it in my opinion.
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Originally Posted by Ping King
theyre so cheap...just put another one on..Why get it all together and realize that its gonna grind going into gear?
Last edited by thesource; 09-22-2007 at 02:21 PM.
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Before:
After:
This is a 1/2 slider from a T56 before and after cleaning it up with a basic angle grinder and a 120 grit pad .The part circled is more important than the actual tip . Its where the sleeve actually hold on to the gear and keeps it in gear . If this is tappered , you need to replace it .
After:
This is a 1/2 slider from a T56 before and after cleaning it up with a basic angle grinder and a 120 grit pad .The part circled is more important than the actual tip . Its where the sleeve actually hold on to the gear and keeps it in gear . If this is tappered , you need to replace it .
Last edited by thesource; 09-22-2007 at 07:29 PM.
#11
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The amount of labor it takes to do that costs as much as buying a new one. I know that we would never send a T56 out the door with a syncro being tuned up. I know that Liberty Gears, Rockland Standard, and G-force transmissions would never do such either. The fact of the matter is that you can never get it machined correctly with a die grinder, reguardless of how steady your hand is.
Joe
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I guess that depends on who you are . I have been doing this for 12 yrs and with all types of manual transmissions without a single issue concerning a syncro assembly . As for labor invested , the sleeve above took me all of about 8 minutes to shape , debur , polish and buff on a bench grinder with a wire brush .
With reguards to the question at the top , would I use it ? In a heart beat . You said the issue was with 3/4 when you tore it down . 1/2 worked fine right ? So why shouldn't it work fine when you put it back in ? And why wouldn't it work just as fine if you cleaned it up like the one in the picture I've posted ?
The answer is , it will .
With reguards to the question at the top , would I use it ? In a heart beat . You said the issue was with 3/4 when you tore it down . 1/2 worked fine right ? So why shouldn't it work fine when you put it back in ? And why wouldn't it work just as fine if you cleaned it up like the one in the picture I've posted ?
The answer is , it will .
Last edited by thesource; 09-23-2007 at 08:39 AM.
#13
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Well we wouldn't do it and I am sure our customers wouldn't want that. With over 1100 under our belt I will not offer that no matter how how steady our hand is. I would not want that in my race car or street car and that is all I was stating. It is just not a good idea for the average guy. I would never use a tuned up sleeve in anything we own.
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i think what it boils down to is that you already have the tranny out, so why leave the old part in? while it will drive fine, it probably wont last as long as a new one (duh lol). but idk I hate dropping my tranny, maybe im the only one.
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The thing is with any used transmission , all the items are worn . You have to be able to determine whats reusuable and whats not . If you change every single part in the unit , you might as well buy a brand new transmission .
When you have an engine rebuilt , do they change every single part ? Of course not . They rehone or bore out the cylinders depending on the wear of the cylinder wall , put new rings if not bored out and if it is new pistons . The cranks are turned and new bearings installed . The heads are freshened up with a valve job and resurfaced . This is the difference between a rebuilt engine and a brand new engine .
Transmissions , whether you are talking auto or manual are the same way . A good builder can determine whats usuable and whats not . That person can also explain in detail why it is or why it is not reusuable . A parts changer looks at the part , see wear or something that "looks" ugly and changes it without even thinking about it . These type of mechanics typically learn this from working at a dealership and reading service bulletins . Anyone can fix something if they throw enough money and parts at it .
When you have an engine rebuilt , do they change every single part ? Of course not . They rehone or bore out the cylinders depending on the wear of the cylinder wall , put new rings if not bored out and if it is new pistons . The cranks are turned and new bearings installed . The heads are freshened up with a valve job and resurfaced . This is the difference between a rebuilt engine and a brand new engine .
Transmissions , whether you are talking auto or manual are the same way . A good builder can determine whats usuable and whats not . That person can also explain in detail why it is or why it is not reusuable . A parts changer looks at the part , see wear or something that "looks" ugly and changes it without even thinking about it . These type of mechanics typically learn this from working at a dealership and reading service bulletins . Anyone can fix something if they throw enough money and parts at it .
#18
Well I appreciate everyones opinions, it's always good to see everyones point of view. But I did go ahead and reinstall the part. I'm broke and I still need some new 4.10s, and a new clutch, and I need my car to be back together by the weekend so $100 is a lot for a new slider in my book.
I never have had a problem with notchy shifting or popping out of 1st or 2nd. If it does start to act up in the long run I'll pull it back out and tear it down. Hell, I'm so used to stuff breaking it dosen't even bother me. Dropping the trany takes me an hour effn off. It's been in and out more times than I can count hah.
And for a first time tearing into one, it really isn't bad. Just need lots of bench space and a service manual, and LS1tech ofcourse. It really hasn't been as time intensive as I thought either, and it can only get easier for the 2nd rebuild.
I never have had a problem with notchy shifting or popping out of 1st or 2nd. If it does start to act up in the long run I'll pull it back out and tear it down. Hell, I'm so used to stuff breaking it dosen't even bother me. Dropping the trany takes me an hour effn off. It's been in and out more times than I can count hah.
And for a first time tearing into one, it really isn't bad. Just need lots of bench space and a service manual, and LS1tech ofcourse. It really hasn't been as time intensive as I thought either, and it can only get easier for the 2nd rebuild.