Clutch resevoir fluid color?
#1
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Clutch resevoir fluid color?
What color is your resevoir fluid? Mine is pure black, and if I drain it there's some build up or something in the resevoir bucket. Does this happen to anyone? When I bleed it completely and change the fluid it will be black in a day or two max.
I'm trying to diagnose a clutch issue and I'm leaning towards the resevoir/lines being the problem, thanks!
I'm trying to diagnose a clutch issue and I'm leaning towards the resevoir/lines being the problem, thanks!
#2
Kleeborp the Moderator™
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It should be the color of clean brake fluid...yours sounds like mine used to look. I had some shifting issues until I made it a point to keep the hydraulic lines cleaned out with fresh fluid on a more regular basis.
What you have described is VERY common, but often overlooked.
What you have described is VERY common, but often overlooked.
#3
The continual return of black/claudy/or otherwise discolored fluids is generally related to one of a few potential causes. The first and most common is that the fluid is being heated/boiled and thus burned in the lines that often run too close to heat sources. The suggestion to remedy this would be to wrap the lines in a protective heat resistent wrap. The next possible cause is a slave or master assembly or even the lines that carry the fluid that have begun to break-down (generally caused by heat and use over time). Either way, you really need to fully check the applicable parts for issues, wrap the lines, and put in a fluid with a greater boiling point. I am a big fan of Motul RBF-600 (though I suggest that you check compliance of this fluid with your vehicle before making the switch). Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!!!
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Thanks for the replies. I knew of the heat that could cause it to go black, I'm planning to replace the resevoir and lines and wrap them up. I just can't take this anymore, the clutch is acting up and the pedal pressure is inconsistent which is driving me nuts!!
#5
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Its a common issue with aggressive driving. The more the car is pushed the quicker the fluid boils.
There are 2 major heat sources to worry about. The clutch fluid line that goes from the resivor down to the slave and the slave it self thats in the bell housing. I wrapped my line with fuel line rubber hose and wrapped it with metallic tape. This does indeed help but the big issue is this. The fluid needs to be swapped out in regular matience intervals.
The best way is a friend in the car, pushing the clutch and someone below doing the fitting. This is the only way to get the garbage fluid in the bottom of the line. The crappy fluid if you try to get it out from the top, just seeps upward.
There are 2 major heat sources to worry about. The clutch fluid line that goes from the resivor down to the slave and the slave it self thats in the bell housing. I wrapped my line with fuel line rubber hose and wrapped it with metallic tape. This does indeed help but the big issue is this. The fluid needs to be swapped out in regular matience intervals.
The best way is a friend in the car, pushing the clutch and someone below doing the fitting. This is the only way to get the garbage fluid in the bottom of the line. The crappy fluid if you try to get it out from the top, just seeps upward.
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You can always use a Mighty Vac to suck the fluid out of the resevoir before bleeding. Then fill with new. No reason to put the fluid back into the system.
I actually noticed the fluid in my resevoir was nasty looking as well. I did find that when I emptied the master and it's line, the fluid was clean. Thought that was interesting.
I actually noticed the fluid in my resevoir was nasty looking as well. I did find that when I emptied the master and it's line, the fluid was clean. Thought that was interesting.
#7
Kleeborp the Moderator™
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I went the expensive route on mine actually...I do maintenance intervals with Castrol SRF brake fluid. I got tired of the shitty pedal at the top of 4th gear after a nice WOT run...so far, the fresh SRF has stopped it, and hasn't turned any colors yet. Then again, I haven't driven it much lately, so it is a test in progress.
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#9
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I checked mine today and it was black with some kind of slim in there. I got most of the slim out, but the fluid is still black. So how do I completely remove the old fluid and replace it with new? Does anyone know where I might be able to find a write up with some pics. I'm new to these cars.
Also, can you go with a DOT5 since it has a higher boiling pioint or do I have to stick with DOT3 but a much better grade?
Also, can you go with a DOT5 since it has a higher boiling pioint or do I have to stick with DOT3 but a much better grade?
#10
Kleeborp the Moderator™
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I checked mine today and it was black with some kind of slim in there. I got most of the slim out, but the fluid is still black. So how do I completely remove the old fluid and replace it with new? Does anyone know where I might be able to find a write up with some pics. I'm new to these cars.
Also, can you go with a DOT5 since it has a higher boiling pioint or do I have to stick with DOT3 but a much better grade?
Also, can you go with a DOT5 since it has a higher boiling pioint or do I have to stick with DOT3 but a much better grade?
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The Castrol SRF is the supreme stuff out there as far as wet boiling points go, which makes it the best for longevity (IF you don't normally change your fluid out every couple of months or so) since it absorbs moisture much slower than all of the other fluids. It is also more expensive than gold by weight!! (J/K)