Spec Stage 2+
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Spec Stage 2+ I have a spec stage 2+ aluminum pressure plate and an aluminum flywheel. All less than a year old and the clutch is toasted. Anyone else have a similar experience? I haven't been hard on it. I abused the stock clutch more and it lasted longer. Needless to say I am not very happy but I guess that's the way it goes. Any suggestions on a comparable replacement that might live longer? The engine is mostly stock for now.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,875
Likes: 1
From: Naperville, IL
From what I've seen, SPEC clutches don't like to be slipped a lot.. they tend to go out very fast when they are.. but it's a high performance clutch, you can't really drive it like a stock one. People who try to drive a SPEC like a stocker are better off with an LS7 clutch/ LS2 flywheel combo.
From what I've seen, SPEC clutches don't like to be slipped a lot.. they tend to go out very fast when they are.. but it's a high performance clutch, you can't really drive it like a stock one. People who try to drive a SPEC like a stocker are better off with an LS7 clutch/ LS2 flywheel combo.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
That was hard to get used to but I did and I have to say I like mine. Anyway back on topic. I didn't slip it like the stocker as I am well aware they or any aftermarket clutch doesn't live through that very well. Maybe mine was put together on Friday. 
Race, why don't you pull the clutch and send me some pics of the parts. This will allow me to better assess the situation and thus provide more info as to the cause. That way we can skip the typical "I broke it in properly, I never slipped it, it can't be contaminated, and my flywheel was flat...it must be the clutch" discussion and move right to the cause, effect and solution (LOL I am sure you realize that I say this with humor). As a side note to all that read this post, doing exactly what I have asked of Race will help skip the "I have this problem what do you think the cause is..." banter that seems to inundate these forums.
As most of you know, I am always willing to help, and I understand that in most instances you want an answer and you want it quickly. By following the above outline of suggestions in regards to our products you can help reduce the time it take to assess the problem and thus be back on the road as quickly as possible.
As most of you know, I am always willing to help, and I understand that in most instances you want an answer and you want it quickly. By following the above outline of suggestions in regards to our products you can help reduce the time it take to assess the problem and thus be back on the road as quickly as possible.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
Race, why don't you pull the clutch and send me some pics of the parts. This will allow me to better assess the situation and thus provide more info as to the cause. That way we can skip the typical "I broke it in properly, I never slipped it, it can't be contaminated, and my flywheel was flat...it must be the clutch" discussion and move right to the cause, effect and solution (LOL I am sure you realize that I say this with humor). As a side note to all that read this post, doing exactly what I have asked of Race will help skip the "I have this problem what do you think the cause is..." banter that seems to inundate these forums.
As most of you know, I am always willing to help, and I understand that in most instances you want an answer and you want it quickly. By following the above outline of suggestions in regards to our products you can help reduce the time it take to assess the problem and thus be back on the road as quickly as possible.
As most of you know, I am always willing to help, and I understand that in most instances you want an answer and you want it quickly. By following the above outline of suggestions in regards to our products you can help reduce the time it take to assess the problem and thus be back on the road as quickly as possible.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
^^ I guess thats why my Spec 3 is starting to slip... but its weird... its been slipping every once in a while in the morning and its pretty cold now here in the morning in 5th gear... but like once it warms up outside and i drive it easy for a few minutes to warm up and it holds like a mother? It slipped yesterday morning in 5th gear but then on lunch i ran out to lunch and i blew the tires off in 1st going into 2nd and chirped 3rd with no problem?
I can appreciate your perspective...and I understand that you are experiencing slip, but until the clutch comes out of the car it is pretty hard to ensure what the cause is. That being said...I guess you have determined that it really doesn't matter what you find. Either way, I will be happy to take look at the pics.
Jon, How many mies are on your stage 3. Stage 3 uses a Carbon-Semi-Metallic material. This material will have increased grip as it heats up. As with any material, if there is a contaminent present it will be effected by temperature which can lead to slippage at one point but not another. Either way, if you are interested in pulleing the assembly I will be happy to take a look at any pics you can provide. Thanks!
Jon, How many mies are on your stage 3. Stage 3 uses a Carbon-Semi-Metallic material. This material will have increased grip as it heats up. As with any material, if there is a contaminent present it will be effected by temperature which can lead to slippage at one point but not another. Either way, if you are interested in pulleing the assembly I will be happy to take a look at any pics you can provide. Thanks!
^^^ I'm not exactly sure of how many miles... maybe around 10K the original owner put it in the car, Yeah its weird cause it just started doing this as its got cold here... been in the low 40's upper 30's overnight temps, I'll take pics of it when I pull it out, I'll probably just be replacing it when I do with an LS7 cause the Spec 3 isn't too friendly in stop and go traffic. Pedal engagement hasn't changed, its not leaking clutch fluid, no oil leaks, it doesn't smell like anything when it slips so I'm not quite sure.
When I bought my car it had a spec 2 in it and the guy told me it had roughly 30k miles. I put a cam, headers, 3.42 12 bolt, and a 100 shot tnt which progressed into a 150 shot. I daily drove the car and raced it every chance I got for a whole season with no trouble running 7.00 at 99 on slicks with 1.52 60ft. 3rd gear synchro went out so I pulled the tranny to rebuild. While it was out I changed to a 3+. Broke it in for 700 miles only to have it stick to my flywheel the first dump. I would push in the clutch and the car would keep going,NOT GOOD. Pulled it out to find that it had welded itself together. Took it back to Spec, they apologized, gave my a new one which did exactly the same thing. Took it back and got another Spec 2 and never had anymore trouble. I also tried thier stage 5 behind a 383 but it wouldn't hold. Long story short, I had great luck with the spec 2, but no others.
Just my .02
Just my .02
From what I've seen, SPEC clutches don't like to be slipped a lot.. they tend to go out very fast when they are.. but it's a high performance clutch, you can't really drive it like a stock one. People who try to drive a SPEC like a stocker are better off with an LS7 clutch/ LS2 flywheel combo.
12 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
You guys must be slipping the clutch too much. Some of those aftermarket jobs are made with a real high coeficient of friction and heat up extreamly quickly when slipped to take off even on the street. I have found it's beter to use a stock type clutch lining with lots of static pressure. This is typically a lot smoother driving experience. Just gear the car deep enough to run well. The lighter the flywheel, the more gear is needed. Those motors put out enough torque to desguise that issue, but it is true.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
You guys must be slipping the clutch too much. Some of those aftermarket jobs are made with a real high coeficient of friction and heat up extreamly quickly when slipped to take off even on the street. I have found it's beter to use a stock type clutch lining with lots of static pressure. This is typically a lot smoother driving experience. Just gear the car deep enough to run well. The lighter the flywheel, the more gear is needed. Those motors put out enough torque to desguise that issue, but it is true.
12 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
I used to think the same thing until I experienced a clutch/ flywheel explosion at 7000 RPM. Kind of changed my thinking about high pressure and high RPM. I have to admit I was young and didn't have an SFI flywheel or any other safety equipment for that matter. I can only assume judging by the carnage that was left behind that the flywheel was to blame. The center section was still on the crank even all of the bolts were still tight but everything else was gone. Even cut the frame rail nearly in half. Looked like a tactical nuke went of under the car.
Ouch. That could have cut you in half. I use a good steel flywheel. Those stock flywheels are the reason scattersheilds were invented. I use a wicked thick steel bellhouseing and a good steel flywheel. My clutch disk is a ram race disk with organic lining installed and presents about the least danger possible. That same thing can not be said of many aftermarket disks including CF or Zoom who use the weak stock clutch hub with high friction linings. I am glad you were not hurt.
Again, if those hot rods are geared correctly, the clutch will see far less stress than with higher gears. For totally brutal traction situations about 15 to one starting ratio was the norm back in the super stock days. I have found that about 13.5 to 14 to one is perfectly acceptable with 26 inch tires and good power. If the car is allowed to bog parts will break. The modern drag race setup would be an adjustable long style pressure plate of about 900 to 1200 lbs static pressure and a solid sintered iron disk. This setup allows the clutch to cushion the launch some and lower rpm takeoffs, but wears out much more quickly and is for the birds when used on the street. My setup works much better for a street strip car.