My new clutch setup 5.5" tilton/quarter master
01-31-2009, 06:42 AM
#21
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Yes it's a quater master trilite, no it's not heavy it weighs 17 lbs for the complete setup, yes it is a stock flex plate and no the car is no where near the 's. It can be a bitch to drive but it's liveable I mean come on my gf drives the car constantly and the gearbox is faceplated too.
02-02-2009, 09:44 PM
#26
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I'd hate to say your lying but how is it possible this clutch is still alive.(i'm more curious than trying accuse you)
From everything I know about small diameter clutches is that they have no inertia so it should be either an on off switch when engaging; hard to start off. Their isn't a lot of surface area so slipping this clutch will wear it out incredibly fast and get the clutch setup out of tollerance.
I would love to have a 17IB setup in my road racing car. I need this clarified. VRM VRM =)
Ronald
From everything I know about small diameter clutches is that they have no inertia so it should be either an on off switch when engaging; hard to start off. Their isn't a lot of surface area so slipping this clutch will wear it out incredibly fast and get the clutch setup out of tollerance.
I would love to have a 17IB setup in my road racing car. I need this clarified. VRM VRM =)
Ronald
02-04-2009, 07:12 AM
#27
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Al the reps. I talked to said it would'nt last. I said it could'nt be worse than the spec or any other stock looking clutch on the market.... Soo I had a free one and figured I could'nt go wrong by spending a few hundred bucks to get the supporting products to try it. We run these clutches in our r.r. race cars for about a race season in the ALMS GT series under far worse conditons that it sees with me. Yes it's hard to slip at light throttle to take off, if you want a stock clutch don't do this. If your tired of your clutch going to mush and sticking to the floor then do this... This clutch is rebuildable so it may even save money in the long run. My girlfriend drives this car virtually every day do I need to repeat that to you boys worried about driveabity. I'm going to try other discs to try to soften it up a bit when these wear out ..... I don't know when that will be although the discs are showing signs of wear. The clutch has lots of feel and is very slippable when I do quick luanches on the street under power. this setup will FIX sticking peddle issues, not just a bandade like changing out the hydraulics or trying to rap everything with heat shield. The hyd. release bearing cannot be used with the stock type clutch. I know there are lots of people on here that thinks the oe style hyd release bearing is the problem... trust me it's not..... Neither is the master, I'm using a master that has been in the car for 7 years.
02-04-2009, 03:29 PM
#30
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02-04-2009, 04:16 PM
#31
Never have. That's why I specifically said that they are "advertised" as such, not that it was a fact.
That being said.
A stock Ls2 clutch has a rotational moment of inertia of about >3500 while a button clutch and flywheel could easily be <500 lbs in^2. That's freaking huge. You would have to have magically weightless rods and pistons to get the same affect on rotational acceleration. There is a reason that every single race clutch manufacture reccomends using the smallest diameter clutch that your series rules/heat capacity requirements allow.
That being said.
A stock Ls2 clutch has a rotational moment of inertia of about >3500 while a button clutch and flywheel could easily be <500 lbs in^2. That's freaking huge. You would have to have magically weightless rods and pistons to get the same affect on rotational acceleration. There is a reason that every single race clutch manufacture reccomends using the smallest diameter clutch that your series rules/heat capacity requirements allow.
02-05-2009, 07:01 PM
#32
10-13-2009, 04:58 PM
#33
I'm necroposting the hell out of this.....
I'd like to know exactly what you used. What you had to modify etc... I've been looking into something like this recently and remembered there was an older thread about it ie this one.
What type of clutch did you end up with? I've been looking at quartermaster's website a lot and trying to figure things out.
I found this other thread in the parts for sale section that kind of outlined the cost and items used:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...ted-parts.html
I'd like to know exactly what you used. What you had to modify etc... I've been looking into something like this recently and remembered there was an older thread about it ie this one.
What type of clutch did you end up with? I've been looking at quartermaster's website a lot and trying to figure things out.
I found this other thread in the parts for sale section that kind of outlined the cost and items used:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...ted-parts.html
10-14-2009, 03:13 AM
#35
From what I am gathering:
E Twin Disk = Iron Compound / Torque Capacity = 1795
ST Twin Disk = Full-Faced Carbon Semi-Metallic Compound / Torque Capacity = 1595
P Twin Disk = Carbon Graphite Compound / Torque Capacity = 1395
SS Twin Disk = Organic Compound / Torque Capacity = 900
R Twin Disk = ??? / Torque Capacity = 800
D Twin Disk = ??? / Torque Capacity = 800
X Triple Disk = ??? / Torque Capacity = 1200
Before realizing this unit was out I was looking at either a quarter master 7.25 triple carbon disk setup, a single, or dual 8.5 disk with aluminum flywheel. I like the setup Project GatTagO had in his old LS1 RX7. It was a single 8.5 disk setup that only weighed 22 lbs complete with flywheel.
Here's that link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/road-raci...ht-clutch.html
