My new clutch setup 5.5" tilton/quarter master
11-24-2007, 08:34 AM
#3
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
I've never heard of Ace, but apparently it works for you guy's. Is the gearbox in your car faceplated? Do you the clutch when you shift it? I suprised you are'nt using a heavier clutch/flywheel assembly for a drag car. Mine only weighs 16-17 lbs.
11-24-2007, 09:31 AM
#4
Nice! I ran a Quartermaster 5.5" triple disc on my racecar, so I know how the engagement feels with one of those suckers. Anybody that runs a Spec 5 or any other heavy duty clutch and thinks those engage hard have no idea!
What type of racing are you using the clutch for?
What type of racing are you using the clutch for?
11-24-2007, 11:46 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
I was getting tired of the week after market pressure plates making the clutch pedal go away at high rpm's. I think that problem has been aleviated.
the gearbox is also face plated
the gearbox is also face plated Trending Topics
11-24-2007, 08:20 PM
#8
Mine is faceplated and I don't use the clutch on the shift. My cluch pressure plate and flywheel weight 22lbs. The heavy flywheel thing only helps when you can't adjust the clutch. I can adjust the base pressure along with the centrifical counter weight.
11-25-2007, 09:19 AM
#10
My tranny has lasted for a lot of passes, the slipper clutch helps with the shock load on the tranny. The clutch I have is the same one that the prostock cars use. It is 6.25 inches in diameter, and has 3 discs. You will not be able to shift that clutch clutchless, as it has too much clamp load. If you try and shift it without the clutch it will break the lugs off of the gears.
11-25-2007, 07:15 PM
#13
9 Second Club
Odd setup for a road car.
I would imagine it wont last long, and be horrible to drive with. I can only guess you must be pushing some serious rpm's to feel the need to use such a clutch ?
As there any fear of that flywheel/ring gear holder disintegrating at high rpm ? Looks quite flimsy ?
I would imagine it wont last long, and be horrible to drive with. I can only guess you must be pushing some serious rpm's to feel the need to use such a clutch ?
As there any fear of that flywheel/ring gear holder disintegrating at high rpm ? Looks quite flimsy ?
01-30-2009, 07:30 AM
#16
I don't get it, seriously...
When I drove one it was like an on/off switch. Mine was a Quartermaster, and yours is a Tilton of course. I really can't see there being much of a difference though.
Can you slip it at all from a stop? Is there much throw in the clutch pedal?
When I drove one it was like an on/off switch. Mine was a Quartermaster, and yours is a Tilton of course. I really can't see there being much of a difference though.
Can you slip it at all from a stop? Is there much throw in the clutch pedal?
01-30-2009, 07:44 AM
#18
9 Second Club
Also, torque carrying ability from such a small diamter must be a lot lower than an equivalent larger diamter clutch for any given clamp pressure. So I assume these clutches are pretty heavy ??
I'll stick with my Tex....
01-30-2009, 09:40 AM
#19
It looks like a Quartermaster Tri-Lite throwout bearing, but I could be wrong.
Actually Stevie, the throw needed to disengage these clutches is minimal. Manufacturers recommend installing a pedal stop to keep from pushing the fingers in too far because it can damage the clutch. With a 5.5" Quartermaster triple disc clutch and 3/4" master cylinder, it only took about 2" of pedal movement to fully disengage the clutch.
Actually Stevie, the throw needed to disengage these clutches is minimal. Manufacturers recommend installing a pedal stop to keep from pushing the fingers in too far because it can damage the clutch. With a 5.5" Quartermaster triple disc clutch and 3/4" master cylinder, it only took about 2" of pedal movement to fully disengage the clutch.
