I'm swappin to a Turbo 400 in a couple of weeks, but would like to try bleedin my clutch to see if it helps at all with the problems i'm havin with it, cuz I would like to be able to drive my car around for the next couple of weeks, it's already been sittin a couple weeks. I have a feelin it's gotta be air in the system, cuz there is no way in hell I fucked a brand new clutch in less than 3,000 miles! Basically, at WOT it's not fully disengaging and sometimes I can't hit gears at all (this was b4 I stopped drivin it and was tryin to go wot a few times when I first noticed it). Any tips on how to bleed the clutch would be greatly appreciated, I would like to try and do this on my day off tomorrow, thanks!

 

There is a bleeder on the slave cylinder that is nearly impossible to get to. It sits in an opening where the bell housing meets the tranny...near the clutch line(where the master cylinder plugs into the slave). you might be able to get a socket on it. Sorry I don't know of any easy write ups.

 

gravity bleed it...open the bleeder (1" above where the line goes in the tranny 7/16 socket) only open it about half a turn...fill the master....close the bleeder, pump the pedal FAST with your hand like 30 times..then open the bleeder and fill the resovour...repeat untill the pedal returns all the way on its own

 

try installuniversity.com and ls1info.com. they should have something. if not then do a search on here and ls1.com

 

Take an spark plug boot that fits onto the bleeder snugly (I had one from a set for a Gen I SBC.) Insert rubber line that fits snugly into the plug boot, and is long enough to run up to the reservoir. Actually I had a rubber fitting into the boot, and the rubber line into the fitting, but same concept.

Run the line to the reservoir, clip it in place so the end is under-fluid level in the res. Loosen the bleeder, push the boot onto it, and have someone pump the pedal slowly while you watch fluid level. In just a few minutes, you'll have run the fluid through several times, and eliminated all air.

This method is one I came up with doing a master cylinder on a 99 T/A.

This method does not replace any fluid, so you should probably bleed the cylinder to a trashable bottle while adding fluid as necessary, then implement this method to rid the system of air.

-Matthew

 

Thanks for all the help guys! I got a ? though. I noticed that when I opened my clutch reservoir (was gonna try and bleed the clutch, but could not find the damn bleeder valve no matter how hard I tried, so I just gave up! ), that the black thing that floats in there was like totally not lined up with the cap, so I got it nice and snug to the cap and put the cap back on, and now all of the sudden the clutch feels good, really good! Could the black thing not lining up and being tight with the cap cause all the problems I was having? Cuz now i'm totally confused!

 

Matthew

So basically your are recycling the fluid?

Was this on the stock hydraulics of the 99 T/A? Have you tried it on aftermarket hydraulic system i.e. mcloed?

TIA

Frank

 

Frank:

Yes.
Yes.
and Yes, it just uses the stock reservoir. McLeod doesn't make a slave any longer, IIRC.

edit: Just noticed where you're from

 

Yup Albquerque as well.

I am also having problems with the reverse gear/s.

It "feels" like the teeth are not fully engaging and sometimes makes a loud clank. Like if it jumped a tooth. If I don't hold the shifter in place it pops out.

I am thinking a shift fork but I have never worked on a tranny before either.

What do you think it could be?

 

I think the purpose of the the black rubber insert in the clutch fluid reservoir is to displace most of the air volume once you close the reservoir, but also to be compressible so that it does not resist returning clutch fluid. I suppose if it were installed wrong, some fluid could be diplaced to the hollow center and this might resist returning fluid since it won't compress correctly? Just a guess, but it seems to fit with your experience.

If it goes soft on you again, try using a MityVac in the clutch fluid reservoir. Jam one of the fittings into the line at the bottom of the reservoir, pump it up and walk away for 5 - 10 minutes, and repeat until you get no air. Then pump the pedal a bunch and crack the valve. To find the bleed valve, put your fingers on the slave and go up 2-3 inches to find a recessed shelf. It's in there. it's a tight fit but you can get a socket on it. Make sure the pedal is on the floor when you crack the valve and check your reservoir level each time.

If it is 2nd to 3rd on a WOT run where you are not disengaging properly and can't find 3rd take a close look at the drill mod.

Good luck!

BobP