430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

Ive done some research, but im still a little lost. Im looking to put a tko600 behind a bowtie lsx block. id like to use the mcleod rst twin clutch, but other than that i dont know where to go?

ive read that the standard sbc bellhousing will bolt up to the lsx with very little modification. has anyone done this? looking to use the mcleod, but if others work im ok with it. what is the difference btwn the linkage and hydraulic bellhousings? what provisions does one have that the other doesnt?

is there any difference btwn the ls and gen 1 flywheels? if i get an internal balance fw for a gen 1 with the correct tooth count, is there any reason it wouldnt work?

is there any difference btwn the ls and gen 1 clutches? i dont think so, but id like to hear from someone that has made the swap?

can someone explain the difference btwn the hydraulic and manual clutches? im only familiar with the old style linkages. does the clutch differ? what makes the difference? i know that the hyd uses a mc and that there is flex line, but i know there is more to it than that.

what is a hyd throwout bearing and how does it differ from a regular bearing?


thanks, Tim

Dwn Cam

Use a 6912-07 for the RST.(The RST bolts to the stock flywheel) The Bellhousing would be a 8710-01 and the Hydraulic Bearing would be a 13645. This comes with a 3/4" bore wilwood universal master cylinder. You will need to make your own mounting bracket using a 6:1 pedal ratio.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Sounds a little like my project. An LS1 mated to a Muncie in a 68 vette. Later probably changing to the Tremec or Richmond.
What kind of car is it going in, and how far have you got along with the conversion?
Gary

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

dwn cam - thanks for the help so far. can i use a non modular bellhousing like the 8630? if not, what makes them different. theres about a $150 difference so if i can save i will. im now looking at running a hydraulic setup.

also, i cant find the specs on the 6912-07, only the 6911 and 6913.

i dont have a flywheel yet.... can i use a internal balance sbc gen 1 flywheel with the 168 tooth?

gary, the pic in my sig is as far as i have gotten. i want to have the stuff purchased in the next couple of months. just want to make sure i only have to buy it once.

thanks, Tim

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Then you're about where I am.
I'm going to use an LS1 in my 68 vette. The Tremec is a direct replacement for the Muncie, so I'm going to mate the LS1 to an LS1 flywheel/clutch, pressure plate. I'm using the Muncie (168 tooth bell housing) for now, but am planning a Tremec or Richmond 5 speed later. GM makes an adapter throwout bearing to use the Muncie (or Tremec) with the LS crank. I can look up the number for you if you're interested.
The currently offered motor mounts move the motor forward about 2", which means mods to the Z bar, shifter location, and drive shaft for me. With the Tremec, you'll have to mod these too. However Speedhound is supposed to be coming out with an LS adapter motor mount which locates the motor in the correct position. It also integrates a Z bar pivot so I can use the existing manual clutch pedal assembly, drive shaft, trans mount, and shifter location.
If you've already got a manual clutch, Muncie or T-10 bell housing, that could work for you too.
BTW, the Richmond is also a direct replacement for the Muncie, it does require a trans mount mod, but is supposed to use the same dive shaft and shifter location.
Just throwing some "retro" options out there.

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

i may be at the same stage, but im way behind you as far as knowledge. this is my first time installing a manual, and since i have always run autos, i really dont even know the first thing about these tremecs.

from what i have gathered, there are three ways to actuate the clutch. the old way, z bar to clutch fork, the newer way with the slave, mc and clutch fork, and the newest way with no clutch fork and a hyd t/o bearing. is this correct?

if i use a hyd bearing, can i just use the steel bellhousing (non modular)? if i went the slave route, it seems like there would need to be a way to mount a bracket for it. maybe this is what the mod has?

what are the problems with the hyd t/o bearing? although its a little more money, it seems like the easiest setup.

i also found a setup for about 700 that uses a slave and gives you the fork and bell, but no mc. good deal, or are there other ways?

is anyone mounting the mc on the inside of the car? id rather not add something to my firewall. i dont think it would be that hard to rig a bracket.

thanks, Tim

Dwn Cam

The 8630 will work. The 6912-07 is made for the LS based motors. It's not listed on Mcleod's web site, but if you called Mcleod they would confirm it. Use a 460530 flywheel, this is a LS specific flywheel. Gen I SBC flywheel won't work because the crankshaft is offset shallower (.400" instead of .730" for the SBC).

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Yep, those are the 3 ways.
I'm sure you could get any of them to work.
As for the hydraulic throwout bearing, I'm not sure the one DWN suggested will work. If it's for the T56, might be too long. The Tremec will use a Muncie type bell housing which is shorter.

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

anybody use this http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/hydclutchpkg.html

i found a good deal on a 8650 ($249), but how do guys connect the slave to the fork? also i dont think the bell has provisions for the slave, i might have to weld something on.

thanks, Tim

Dwn Cam

8650 has the dual starter pockets which is only used on a limited amount of cars. You will need to make a bracket to mount a external slave to actuate the fork. Use a 139006 Universal External Slave.

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

although only used on a limited amount of cars, will it still work? thanks

Dwn Cam

Yeah it will work.

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

found the bell for cheap so i think ill go with that. i also found an billet aluminum fly from mcleod for 250, but its .200 thicker (#560536). will it still work?

im thinking about the howe t/o bearing????? any opinions???
Thanks, Tim

Dwn Cam

the 560536 will work but the added .200" to the face of the flywheel may cause problems with the drive shaft. Everything will shift towards the back of the car .200". Expect the worst ( new driveshaft required) hope for the best(retain old driveshaft).

430 hp 70

iTrader: (3)

dwn cam - thanks for all of the replies. i agree that the extra might cause some issues, but how would it affect the drive shaft? trans mounted to bell mounted to motor??? wouldnt it just push the clutch package back? i think that would affect the t/o bearing, right?

btw, the driveshaft has to be altered anyways.

thanks again, Tim

stk3171

I am looking for a 8650 Mcleod for my Buick 350. If it does not work out for you and you want to sell could you let me know?
Dan

itslow

iTrader: (4)

Another option is to use the Lakewood 15005 with an LS1 clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate. It is a 1-piece unit that doesn't require funky spacers and whatnot, and has provisions for a standard mechanical clutch linkage.

I will be using this for my LSx/TKO500 conversion.

Qwiknotch

this may sound retarded, but are the LS1 and LS2 the same bolt pattern for bellhousings and transmissions?
I like the 15005 bellhousing and it would work great in my car, but not sure if it will fit an LS2..

itslow

iTrader: (4)

Identical.

Qwiknotch

Hey guys...

After lots of talking with Lakewood, Mcloed and Tremec, I have found some numbers for those of us not wanting to use a T56 or a hydraulic clutch

Lakewood Bellhousing - 15005
Tremec TKO - 5009 with a .64 OD or 4618 with a .82.

for me, the Od is useless because I am taking it out and turning it into a 4 speed.

Still waiting for Mcloed to call me back about the correct clutch and TB.