Zombie

iTrader: (2)

I'm fed up with the shitty hydraulics and clutch setups. I gave up on my previous 6 speed and put a TH400 in it because I got tired of constant expensive clutch issues. I made the mistake of buying a 2002 Z06 which unfortunately isn't available with an automatic. I love driving stick shift, but have had ZERO luck with GM clutch setups. So now that i'm done griping, here is my actual problem and the steps I've taken so far.

Problem: 2002 Z06, clutch sticks to floor and am unable to select gears when driving the car hard. Clutch comes back after putting it in neutral and pumping it several times, then functions normal until beating on it again. The clutch feels perfectly normal when driving like a sane person, problem only happens driving hard. I can't even make it down the 1/4 mile because I get locked out of 4 gear due to the clutch becoming the consistancy of mashed potatos.

Steps taken to solve issue:

1. Swapped out DOT 4 fluid several times, no improvement.
2. Insulated all clutch lines with heat sheild to protect them from header heat, no improvement.
3. Flushed all old fluid out of the system and replaced with new DOT 4 fluid (still has a low 311 F wet boiling point though). Bled all air out of system.
4. Put car up for sale because i'm tired of clutch problems and looking for an automatic car.

Anyone have other ideas? Could it be the pressure plate is weak and when it gets hot it's losing it's ability to hold tension? Clutch doesn't appear to be slipping at all. I'm still suspecting it's a heat related issue. High RPM shifts are fine on the 1-2-3 shifts (gets a little soft on the 2-3), but on the 3-4 it usually turns to pudding unless I start out the pull in 3rd. Then it has enough "pressure" (and I use that term generously) to usually make it into 4th without too much problem.

dankl

iTrader: (1)

Same problem with my '01 Z28. It's inconsistent though. Lately I have had no issue with hard driving and hard RPM shifting (over 6K). I have heard this problem may have not been a mistake. GM may have done it to take pressure off the weak 10bolt and to save them on warranty parts=save them $$$. Could be a myth, but just about everyone with a car like these has had this complaint. Many say do the drill mod, but I notice plenty of people who do this mod still experiencing the same issues. Good Luck. I would also like to get this situation resolved in my car.

Will going to a stronger clutch make any difference? Looking at the LS7 clutch kit.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Swap the slave, its hydraulic related.

bigsticksupra

iTrader: (3)

put in a new slave and master

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

I'm debating having the slave and clutch changed, the problem is I don't want to spend all the $$$ on it. Tired of wasting money on cars.

01CamaroZ28

iTrader: (9)

if its hydralic related then i wouldnt think that changing the clutch would effect anything

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

So chance having a bad clutch/pressure plate and do the labor twice? I don't think so. If the trans comes out everything gets replaced, it's much cheaper than doing it twice.

I played the clutch game every 1000 miles or so on my turbo car before I gave up and went to a TH400, i'm never going to waste that kind of money again.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Look into the following things further:

It is my understanding that the C5 hydraulics have a restriction in the line similar to the F-body. But, it's in a different place. I am thinking that it's the fitting retained to the slave by a roll-pin.

I have always had the best luck in bleeding an LS1 F-body clutch by my own method I came up with years back. It involves a spark plug boot on a lightly loosened bleeder screw, and a rubber line inserted into that boot with the other end submerged and pointed downwards in the reservoir fluid. With this setup, slowly pumping the pedal will circulate the fluid through, letting air be exposed at the reservoir and be able to come out of possible suspension. The master cylinder can put tremendous pressure on the fluid to circulate it and I feel this is every bit as effective as the mity-vac methods.

There should be an aftermarket slave extension line for easier access. Since this adds volume of fluid, I would not personally add this to a C5.

-Matthew

GhoSStrider

iTrader: (12)

How much power is your Zo6 making? Is it still the stock clutch and if so how many miles? If the clutch is fairly new, then you definately need to look into changing out the slave and master cylinder. If your hydraulics aren't functioning properly, it will eventually wear out the clutch if it hasn't already. At least that's what happened to me. I put in a new clutch and my hydraulics were acting up and the clutch wasn't disengaging, and ended up burning out my new clutch. I ended up replacing everything and went with a twin disk clutch this time. They cost a lot more, but will last longer and you can rebuild it when the time comes, saving you some money. Don't give up on the M6 just yet. Hang in there.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Car is making close to what they make stock since I'm at high altitude and have headers and intake. Don't know if the clutch is stock or after market. If it's stock and has never been changed it has 54k miles on it. Drives great unless you want to drive it hard. Been driving with it like this since Feburary and it's beginning to frustrate me. I don't want to spend $1000+ to do another fuggin clutch and hydraulic in a POS GM trans setup. The LT1 setup worked great, but GM had to go re-invent the fuggin wheel and make it square.

GhoSStrider

iTrader: (12)

I know how frustrating it can be since I'm still trying to finish up my setup. I had my tranny built, put in a new slave and adjustable master cylinder, installed a Spec Super Twin clutch to replace the RAM PG that was fryed in only a couple of months I'm still not quite finished with the install, but hopefully it will be done by this weekend. I went with the Twin because it can handle whatever you throw at it and drives just as good as a stock clutch. You don't necessarly have to go with a high $$ clutch. There are others out there.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

If the hydrolics are good there is nothing bad about the way they work.Your clutch IS slipping causing the peddle to stick. I've built many high HP Vette's that run 6 speeds which run good clutches and none of them have had a clutch stick to the floor.We are talking 6500rpm launches slipping the clutch with slicks -800rwhp.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Got any way to tell if it's the clutch slipping vs the hydraulics besides replacing everything? Clutch doesn't feel like it's slipping to me, but that doesn't mean it isn't.

bballr4567

iTrader: (5)

Ive read to push in the clutch, put it in 1st and rev the car up to around 4k for about 5-7 seconds with the clutch still engaged. Obviously do this on flat ground. If the car moves forward any then the clutch is supposedly bad. Not to sure how accurate that is though.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

If you do the above it doesn't necessarily mean it's bad, it means it's not disengaging properly. To test if a clutch is slipping, get into 6th gear and stomp on it. If the revs go up but the speed stays the same, it's slipping.

bballr4567

iTrader: (5)

Wouldnt it not disengaging properly mean its going bad though? Seeing how the original poster said the peddle is sticking to the floor doesnt that mean its not disengaging?

Just trying to learn a little about the T56 is all.

LSWONGTO

iTrader: (3)

I had the same problem with my stock clutch the day the car dynod after the cam was in. Its just the clutch getting really hot. I went with the spec 3 because I didn,t have the $$ for a tex and its holding up very well. It will chirp 3-4 with ease.

GhoSStrider

iTrader: (12)

What did the fluid look like before you flushed it out? Was it clear or was it black? If it was black, then you need to replace your hydraulics.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Black and nasty. Resivoir was wiped clean like it has been many times before. Haven't checked the fluid today, but i'm 99% sure it's black now too. My understanding is it goes black from getting too hot, not bad hydraulics.

DAVESS02

iTrader: (30)

I had the EXACT same problems with my 02 SS. Changed the master and did the drill mod on the line, nothing. Put in a new slave, nothing. I got to wondering as have many others here, if the pressure plate fingers were expanding outwards at high RPMs and forcing fluid out of the slave? It seemed logical since the problem presents its self as less and less felt pressure, till there is no longer enough pressured stroke to DISENGAGE the clutch. The only other possibility I came up with is that the adjuster ring was moving backwards, against its spring pressure upon high RPM shifts.
I had hoped to run the car till the pedal stuck and pull the trans to observe if the slave had been pushed back or the adjuster ring had moved, but I didnt get to it. Anyway, when you get to 3rd on your high RPM shifts, the clutch isnt fully disengaged and thats hard on the synchros. If you make it into 4th, harder yet.
What solved my problem was going to another clutch setup. I purchased a Luk Gold series pressure plate for use on a mid 90's truck. Its non adjustable, the stock one self adjusts with a ring that's under sprung pressure from the three yellow springs you see on the face of stock PP. I had to use a .150" spacer to move the slave closer to the PP for proper release. I also had a local clutch dealer build me a 6 puck disk with vevet touch brand ceramic pucks. I've been beating the hell out of this clutch as a daily driver and have also went to the drag strip with it and it's rock solid. No slippage, no high RPM sticking with the pedal or other pedal related issues. Having assembled multiple items myself, with an upgraded steel flywheel, I spent a little over $500 and that included balancing. My car makes enough power to trap 115.5MPH in the 1/4 with a crappy 60' time. I'd guess my power to be in the lower 400RWHP as I have AFR heads, a 228/230 cam, FAST 90/90, LT's, and exhaust.