Clutch slipping...AGAIN.....HELP!
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just put $700 in a new clutch 2 weeks ago. Just got on the car real hard tonight for the first time, broke in the clutch for about 350 miles. Thought it was time to let'er rip...i had 255 50 16 MT ET street on the backend reved the car to just under 4 grand and droped the clutch, right when i hit second, clutch started to slip (noticably) and pedal went to floor!!
I replaced EVERYTHING (DFX clutch kit, slave and throwout bearing) However, i did NOT do the drill mod, but that wouldn't make the clutch slip right?? Just hard to shift? Which its not. What should i do???? Do i need to break it in longer? How much damage do you think i did already by it slipping that much? ..the clutch "should" definnatly hold 500 flywheel horse, what else could it be?? -- 2000 camaro new slave and clutch..stock master and no drill mod--i can't be spending alot of money right now, lol...kid on the way and new house :yup: Centerforce sponser fell free to comment
![MAD](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_mad.gif)
Last edited by scidav87; 06-26-2008 at 03:11 AM.
#3
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The fact that the pedal stuck to the floor leads me to beleive that you have an issue thats isn't necessarily the clutch. Is the engagement point consistent? Are there any other symptoms? My honest guess is that there is a fluid transfer problem that is not allowing the hydraulic fluid to move back up the line. This could be related to air in the system or a problem with the original Master or even the slave (though this is less likely as the slave is new). What does the fluid look like? Is it dark or discolored? Are your hydraulic lines wrapped and routed properly?
#4
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i never took out the hydraulic lines and i did change most of the fluid when i did the clutch. The pedal only went to the floor after the clutch got hot (pedal went very spongy) i'm just figuring that without doing the drill mod that when i shifting into second that the clutch slipped just for a sec while the fluid was still trying to go back up the line that it got the clutch hot and started to slip?
Last edited by scidav87; 06-26-2008 at 10:06 AM.
#5
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Bossier city,LA barksdale AFB
Posts: 5,353
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
most people dont do the drill mod and they have no problems. You not doing the drill mod is not the problem! Try bleeding it some more. Did you replace your master? Sucks you just spend $700 when you could of spent only 400 for ls7 and had a better clutch
#7
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How old is the master? The pedal sticking to the floor is typically a hydraulic issue, please give me a call (800) 932-5882 dial “0” and ask for me.
Thank you,
Will Baty
Centerforce Clutches
Thank you,
Will Baty
Centerforce Clutches
#9
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I appreciate the fact that you replaced the slave and bled it initially...but if the pedal is spongy that evidences a great potential air in the lines. I am just trying to help you out based on personal experience...
#10
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
it was only spongy AFTER it started slipping and when it cooled off again..like 1 minute or so, clutch goes back to norm and grab very well, then if you drop the clutch again and right when u go into 2nd it slips causing it to overheat and starts all over again. Its acting exactly like the clutch just can't hold the power/drag tires
#13
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Finally did the drill mod, fixed EVERY problem i had with the clutch (wasn't the clutch itself at all!!) i also replaced the master while i was at it, the line restriction just wasn't letting the slave out fast enough. Centerforce DFX still a great clutch. Still suggest the clutch to anyone. Has no chatter whatsoever, and high RPM shifting no problem at all. Did a few 4000 RPM drops and 6400 shifts and grabbed great after the drill mod.
#14
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Bossier city,LA barksdale AFB
Posts: 5,353
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Im sure it was more of the master then the drill mod! It has almost 90,000 miles on it! The drill mod helps! I have had a few people that didnt want to do the dril mod and installed all new parts and never had any problem. I drove my car for 6 months b4 i did it to my car and i didnt have any of those problems or did any of the other people. It just made it easier to speed shift so you dont crand gears.