ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

Someone who knows what they are talking about. please enlighten me on the strengths and weaknesses of each flywheel, and what they are BEST used for. Thanks!

BLK,97,T/A,M-6

A stock steel FW is fine until you go with a very agressive clutch material.

Aluminum is good for helping the motor to gain rpm faster, but you must remember the FW is an energy storage device, and aluminum, being lighter will store less energy.

Billet steel (or billet aluminum) is what you need to run your very agressive clutches.

ItsNotStock

iTrader: (24)

Aluminum:

Good for road racing. Keeps those rpms up, more responsive to throttle changes.

Although not terrible, hurts you at the track. Less rotational mass means a harder time getting off the line.

Steel/Billet Steel:

Good for drag, all around abuse. The stronger of the two with billet being the strongest. Good for power-adders such as nitrous, or forced induction. More shatter resistant. More rotational mass means easier time off the line.

More rotational mass can also be a bad thing. They're heavy, so it's one more piece in the driveline parasitic loss equation that you need to account for.

If you're keeping your car mostly stock and just want a snappy car in town, and hardly ever see the track I would get the aluminum flywheel. It's something you CAN feel after you change.

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

I like the drag strip. and i plan on modding more in the future. so i guess i should stay away from aluminum

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

your right

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

so I should stay with the stock flywheel? but shouldn't i get it machined or something if i am putting the new clutch in

Viper

iTrader: (6)

I would get it resurfaced if you are staying with stock; just so it is flat to mate with the new clutch.

scidav87

iTrader: (16)

if you get ANY type of a non organic clutch materiel (ie-ceramic, sintered iron, maybe even kevlar) a stock flywheel is NOT the best idea (too soft) a ceramic clutch will eat into that thing, i would never get a stock clutch for that anyway if you have a V8 which i'm sure you do, they slip with any abuse for very long and can't hold power...less its an LS7 clutch. I have an 00 SS and even when factory, if i shifted aggressivly, it would just slip, after heads and cam..it was done. I went with the Centerforce DFX, clutch is great, but a bit grabby off the line (good for power) it even said "do not use factory flywheel" on the instructions due to it being softer. I used a chromoly flywheel from F1 Racing, which is supposed to be 2X stronger than bilet steel.

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

my stock clutch never slipped at the drag strip. ive had it slip during burnouts in 2nd gear. and its about it.

http://marylandspeed.com/spec-stage-...421-p-875.html

thats the clutch im looking at.

LS1C5Vette

iTrader: (11)

If you reuse you flywheel make sure you balance it after you turn it

scidav87

iTrader: (16)

Just a thought, but you SHOULD check out a kevlar clutch, they last 3-5 times longer than factory type clutch material. I know ZOOM makes them for a good price, just check them out, don't you think have your clutch last even twice as long is worth it? They aren't that much more expensive than a OEM clutch either.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

"Although not terrible, hurts you at the track. Less rotational mass means a harder time getting off the line."

not totally correct

the only downside to the light flywheel at the track is the launch. and basically you just have to re-learn how/where to launch. once the clutch/fw are joined...the only thing you get is more power to the wheels.

alum FWs get a bad rep for drag racing, but its just that they need to be driven differently. once you learn how...its all positive gains.

vanveldhuizenc

However Alum. is by nature a softer metal than steel. And part of the reason for its bad rep is that it twist's too much when under load (cracks will appear around bolts and clutch mating surface). It will do better the less load it has to transfer which = less hp and less weight. . it all just depends on your application if its right for you. Drag racing, autocross probably not a such a good idea. but street driving, it would be great for whooping ricer ***

BlackGasGuzzler

iTrader: (3)

A lightweight flywheel won't result in any dyne gains (partially b/c dynos are usually done in the gear closest to 1:1 and ltw flywheels yield their biggest 'gains' in 1st and 2nd gear).

Either way, a lightweight flywheel will result in more torque multiplication in 1st and 2nd, not more whp in your 1:1 gear.

Steve Gunn

If your car is relatively light weight with low gears, this isn't an issue at all. Heavy car or tall gears? Go steel. I have a 3200ish# car with 411's with a 12# flywheel. It's perfect.

BALLSS

Kevlar will glaze on daily driving use and needs to be beat on to not do that. If that is your driving style great.

My Zoom died year 2 at the track. Ymmv

Loren Young

ok i dont have a V8 camaro....its only a v6 but this is my first build and i want to see what i can get out of it before i upgrade to a v8. The plan for the build is daily driver/weekend warrior at time attack events but i need to knw what flywheel to go with billet steel or aluminum? i need something tht is comfortable to drive in stop and go traffic but also will **** and get at the track and help my laptimes...any ideas?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

The best flywheel type for your needs is relative. I have a number of customers that drag-race Aluminum flywheels. These are guys with high-power/high-torque cars that use varied gear-sets and tires. It ultimately comes down to the response of the vehicle and the combination of components used. If the car is spinning the tires and traction is your limiting factor (and you are comfortable with your gears and tires) then use of a lighter wheel can help dampen the hit of power and make launch easier and better. On the other side of that equation is the fact that some cars bog out of the whole (again as a result of component sets) and if an Aluminum flywheel is used in these cars a heavier steel flywheel will help maintain inertia and allow for better response out of the hole. Give me a call with more info on your setup and current experience and I will be happy to help you with more info. Thanks!

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Loren, For time-attack/road-race use of an Aluminum flywheel can be great. I assume that you are currently using the stock flywheel in your v6. I am a road-racer myself and would be happy to assist you with more info on the option that best meets your needs. Give me a call and we can chat about tracks, vehicle response, and what you can expect in daily usage too. Thanks!

Loren Young

thank u fr the advice jeramy....i just got my SCCA lisence about a week ago im going to be running in the street stock class fr my first couple events...i have my first event in next month so i havnt quite seen what the v6 will do on the track but i have been practicing with some slolom and switchbacks in the empty parking lots....handling is pretty good right nw...bt it could definatly use some lighter wheels and some sway bars...theres jst a little too much give fr me. as far as the clutch goes im having trouble deciding on what brand...i mean i dont want to spend 600 on a new clutch and have it not be something im comfortable with....i will definatly call u...my number is 337 318 3703...and if u ever get a chance to make it down to louisiana definatly check out the CENLA chapter of the SCCA