I am about to be forced into a new clutch for my 48,500 mile Formula <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> . Started grinding when up-shifting into 3rd gear <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" /> . I think it is the worn clutch/sorry-assed stock hydraulics. I wanted to save up and possibly sell my old truck so I could buy a McLeod Street Twin, but now my options are limited <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> .
I know I need an adj. Master Cylinder and the 2001-newer GM Slave cylinder. What clutch kit including new flywheel and hydraulics will take @330 rwhp on street tires (mostly) and last a long time? I was thinking the McLeod Rev-Lok II or taking my chances on a SPEC Stage II or III. Can I get a better one (aka RAM, Cartech, Mcleod Single, etc.) for under $1000 shipped?

 

In my opinion the Cartek is a great clutch <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Adnan

 

Any of the McLeod clutches are great. I have had a single disk for over a year and 1/2 and have made over 100+ track passes and a gazillion street passes on it and it's held up perfectly! I also bought it used from Chris Pippy and he had a ton of slick passes on it as well! This clutch has never faded or slipped, even through 15+ bottles with a 100 shot. I'm not dissing any other clutch manufacturer, I'm just telling you my experience with my Single Disc.

Good Luck! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> And it was only 300 bucks for the flywheel, PP, and disc. Replacement Disc's are only 135 bucks too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ April 14, 2003, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: m1key99WS6 ]</small>

 

Thanks for the replies. I am going to do the drill-mod and put in some fresh fluid and see if the grinding problem improves. Maybe that will buy me some time so I can try and get some of our sponsors to have a sale or GP on a Mcleod Street Twin clutch for under $1000 shipped <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> .

 

Yeah I highly recommend the McLeods. I got my single Disk Kevlar with McLeod M/C for a little over $800 shipped. Add on $140 for the Slave and you're just in under your $1000 requirement. I have nothing but good things to say about the McLeod SDK clutch. Grabs hard as hell yet very streetable.

Mike

 

I've known quite a few guys to have problems with the Cartek's....

Go with either a Ram or McCleod clutch. You can't go wrong with either. They are both VERY fair on price, and hold TONS of power. You can get the Ram setup and reuse your stock flywheel for under 400 bucks. The McCleod Rev Lok II clutch is around 420ish, and works great as well. Easily under 1000 bucks.

Josh

 

I just put in a SPEC Stage 3 w/ carbon disk, and after everything I've read about problems, mine is working great. As a matter of fact, I can barely tell any difference from this clutch and the stock one. I think most people's problems with this clutch are 1) f-'d up install, 2) bad hydraulics or air in the lines, or 3) using stock ratio gears.

I spent <$400 total on mine for the pressure plate, disk, T/O bearing, pilot bearing, and flywheel re-surfacing.

BTW, no one I talked to recommended a Rev-Lok for the street.

Oh, and if your tranny is grinding, it's probably not the clutch. It's most likely the syncro's.

<small>[ April 15, 2003, 01:07 PM: Message edited by: 1fastWS6 ]</small>

 

SPEC is very nice clutch for under 400hp my friend car have 410rwhp he tried the spec but after one month the clutch is broken <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> about my car is stock internal and i tried the RAM clutch for daily drive and race is awesome clutch.

Thanks

God saves US ARMY

 

I just bought my Mcleod twin for 830 shipped from TByrne. Love it. Will never go back! This is on an LT1 T56 however.

 

I have a RAM 910 VDS that I am probably going to sell. It is a little too aggressive for me. It has about 1200 miles on it and I will cut you a good deal if you are interested. I will have to warn you though that with stock gears this clutch is a little bit of a PITA pulling out <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> . But from what I understand this is pretty common for a clutch that can hold 500 RW.

-Nick
niphilli@vt.edu

 

I have the Spec stage 3. I have only put 1000 miles on the car since it was installed but I love it. No chatter, light peddle, and grabs like a S.O.B. I also did 410's and the lightweight flywheel with it, so its not on a stock set-up. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1fastWS6:
<strong> Oh, and if your tranny is grinding, it's probably not the clutch. It's most likely the syncro's. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, but since it only happens when upshifting into 3rd gear that leads me to think that the clutch is not fully disengaging. Then it is a hydraulics/clutch problem.
I have narrowed down my search to either the Mcleod Single cluth kit (Does this thing still need the annoying shimming??), or the RAM VDS with the 980(??dual friction compound??) disc.
I will probably never make enough power to require the Mcleod Street Twin clutch. Also, I have decided to save money and NOT get an Aluminum flywheel. I understand that the Al flywheel can get burnt/scorched if you have too much chatter or try to slip it too much in a street application.
Thanks for all of the help. <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />

 

CAMWNDER,if you need some sdvice on a RAM clutch,we can help you pick the right clutch disc and put a package together. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

You might need to get the trans looked at also-you could have damaged a blocker ring ring if the clutch is dragging. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1CAMWNDR:
<strong> I have narrowed down my search to either the Mcleod Single cluth kit (Does this thing still need the annoying shimming??), or the RAM VDS with the 980(??dual friction compound??) disc.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you buy the single or twin disk setups from someone like Thunder or Tbyrne, then the McLeod adjustable master cylinder is included in the package. With the McLeod M/C no shims are needed... thank god! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Good luck with your choice.

Mike

 

Why does it make a difference with the clutch if you still have the stock gear ratio?? Just out of curiosity <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ZeeQuick:
<strong> Why does it make a difference with the clutch if you still have the stock gear ratio?? Just out of curiosity <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Because aggressive clutches tend to chatter with low gear ratios. The lower the gear the higher the tendency for chatter. So if you have a little chatter with 3.42s you can bump up to a 3.73 or 4.10 and that might resolve the problem.

Mike

 

Exactly correct Bushman! Also, with a 3.42 you would have to slip the clutch more to get moving than with, say, a 3.73 or 4.10...

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Futral Motorsports:
<strong> CAMWNDER,if you need some sdvice on a RAM clutch,we can help you pick the right clutch disc and put a package together. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks Allan. I will head over to your site tomorrow and see what I can dig up. Will probably send you an e-mail also.
Can you (or anyone) give me pros/cons with the RAM VDS vs. the Mcleod Singel Disk clutch?
Thanks again everyone.

 

What are the advantages/disadvantages to the alum.flywheel. Sorry to butt in, however, I was just reading the thread and got curious. thanks

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1CAMWNDR:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Futral Motorsports:
<strong> CAMWNDER,if you need some sdvice on a RAM clutch,we can help you pick the right clutch disc and put a package together. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks Allan. I will head over to your site tomorrow and see what I can dig up. Will probably send you an e-mail also.
Can you (or anyone) give me pros/cons with the RAM VDS vs. the Mcleod Singel Disk clutch?
Thanks again everyone. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have a RAM VDS that I am in the process of pulling right now. It was to aggressive for me. I only make it to the track a few times a year though. Pros are that it holds like a ****, cons being that it does not like stop and go traffic around town, especially with the stock gears out back <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />