Finially Changing out the Master.
Finially Changing out the Master. Well Ive had enough of the clutch sticking and pissing me off on fast bursts. Its kinda made the car annoying to go fast in. Drill mod didnt work and I just want to make sure Im going to replace the right thing.
Im going to put a new master cylinder in, and in the kit is new lines and new res. $130 oem gm part. I got a discount on the part so Im pumped.
So am I heading in the right direction. Should I replace the slave while Im at it or is it not necessary. I smoked my clutch pretty god the other day but she is still grabbing like a horney 16 year old. Just want to hear some suggestions. Im thinking about doing the clutch next year after I get the headers, Y, and intake TB on this year.
Thanks for any input.
mike
Im going to put a new master cylinder in, and in the kit is new lines and new res. $130 oem gm part. I got a discount on the part so Im pumped.
So am I heading in the right direction. Should I replace the slave while Im at it or is it not necessary. I smoked my clutch pretty god the other day but she is still grabbing like a horney 16 year old. Just want to hear some suggestions. Im thinking about doing the clutch next year after I get the headers, Y, and intake TB on this year.
Thanks for any input.
mike
Can you elaborate for me. Im told that the clutch is fine. Ive wondered myself about the clutch. Any info you give me is going to help a TON.
Thanks guys
Mike
Yeah I guess I might as well. Im guessing in a year or two the clutch and pressure plate will be next, so as long as we are at it we might as well do it. Thanks for your advice John.
Mike
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Elmira, NY
It wasnt that bad, I read all the horror stories on here about replacing the Master without help but I went ahead and got it done by myself in about 30 minutes. Took out a shot Mcleod and put in a OEM.
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Did you do the slave while you did the master?? Just curious. Or did you do the slave before you did the master. just curious. My mechanic is telling me it would be a waste of 120 bucks to do the slave right now. I dont know which way to go.
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I would almost guess that slave is bad before the master.. I would do the slave as well, and to be perfectly honest the stock ls1 clutch isnt good for much else than getting these cars to cruise down the freeway. for an extra 500 you could have the slave and a new ls7 kit. Keep in mind the clutch sticking( which i assume you mean to the floor) could also be a slipping clutch
I would almost guess that slave is bad before the master.. I would do the slave as well, and to be perfectly honest the stock ls1 clutch isnt good for much else than getting these cars to cruise down the freeway. for an extra 500 you could have the slave and a new ls7 kit. Keep in mind the clutch sticking( which i assume you mean to the floor) could also be a slipping clutch
Mike
My clutch kept not wanting to fully disenage on my T/A. There was no fluid on the floor (really the only time the slave is "bad") so I threw a master in it and its fixed. I bet your line is clogged and you are not getting pressure where it needs to go sometimes. My car had an OEM master in it and the primary seal was all chewed up in it because the dumbasses that did my clutch in before I bought the car "attempted" the drill mod, but did not drill all the way through and they did not flush the shavings out of the line.
I totally agree, have seen it many times. The high RPM shifting on the weaker pressure plate is the problem.It's centrifical force or the pressure plate spinning at 6K+. Once the diaphram spring is in the released position(pedal depressed) it hangs up for a second,causing the pedal to the floor senerio.
Have seen this play out numerous time, a stout clutch was always the fix. But your right to do up the hydraulics as well. If you do a clutch get a slave while your in there.
Have seen this play out numerous time, a stout clutch was always the fix. But your right to do up the hydraulics as well. If you do a clutch get a slave while your in there.
My clutch kept not wanting to fully disenage on my T/A. There was no fluid on the floor (really the only time the slave is "bad") so I threw a master in it and its fixed. I bet your line is clogged and you are not getting pressure where it needs to go sometimes. My car had an OEM master in it and the primary seal was all chewed up in it because the dumbasses that did my clutch in before I bought the car "attempted" the drill mod, but did not drill all the way through and they did not flush the shavings out of the line.
I totally agree, have seen it many times. The high RPM shifting on the weaker pressure plate is the problem.It's centrifical force or the pressure plate spinning at 6K+. Once the diaphram spring is in the released position(pedal depressed) it hangs up for a second,causing the pedal to the floor senerio.
Have seen this play out numerous time, a stout clutch was always the fix. But your right to do up the hydraulics as well. If you do a clutch get a slave while your in there.
Have seen this play out numerous time, a stout clutch was always the fix. But your right to do up the hydraulics as well. If you do a clutch get a slave while your in there.
Dude I hear you on doing it all at the same time. Might as well get it done and not have to dick around later. These two things are the bitch, the clutch wont be as bad I dont think.