I have just installed a McLeod twin disk. The gaps have been measured to .020 on the gaps between the floater disk and the clutch disks. The problem we are having is upon start up of the car with the clutch fully pressed, it does not fully disengage. The car jumps. I have a stock master( I have known several people who use them with out issues) and stock slave with the shim behind the slave.
I have purchased the clutch used and everything looks almost new. It is the 3 prong PP. I have read the directions and there seems to be a blue line you are supposed to line up. There was no blue line. How important is said blue line? I figured if everything mated it would be fine.Oops.

Thanks guys.

 

I have a McLeod RXT street twin. It sounds like a different clutch from yours. If the clutch was bought including the flywheel, then the blue line was most likely an indicator of how the pieces were all oriented when they were balanced. So, it shouldn't have any impact on the issue you're describing.

I was having major clutch disengagement issues with my setup until today. Previously I was using a Ram master cylinder (which is just like a stocker, but adjustable), and today I installed a new McLeod master cylinder (which has a bigger bore and pushes more fluid). My disengagement issues are now gone.

When you run a twin disk, it requires more movement from the slave to fully disengage the clutch. Without a master cylinder that moves more fluid than stock (McLeod is the only one that fits this bill), the clutch will probably never disengage properly... even if you get an adjustable Ram and adjust it all the way out... even if you shim the slave... both of which I tried before buying the McLeod.

McLeod just re-released their master cylinders which are now being manufactured by a new company (the previous manufacturer made **** poor quality parts), and they're available on www.summitracing.com.

 

OH hell!!!! I was afraid of something like that. Why have some people not had these issues and get by with stock masters? I have an adjustable stocker I made. I figure we will try that next. Heck it only takes 10 minutes to swap. I guess I will prepare myself for added expense though. DOH!

 

you need to take the shim out. i have the mcleod street twin with stock master and slave. works great

 

Rule of thumb with the original Street Twin. You need .20"-.25" of air gap between each disc at the time of release. You need .500" of stroke at the physical bearing to generate enough release from the pressure plate casting off the top disc. Make sure that both disc's share the equal amount of shimming otherwise one disc will take away from the other disc. Make sure the OE Hyd Bearing has a air gap between .125" and .200" in a relaxed state. If the bearing is too tight against the fingers, the bearing will preload the pressure plate and you will have slipping issues.

 

How do you determine the gap after everything is torqued down? This is frustrating as hell!!LOL

 

yeah that makes since, but how do you release the disc to check it? advice please.

 

anybody got in idea how to release the disc?

 

The best way to do it, is to simulate release on a drill press prior to installation. Use a mech bearing on the fingers of the P/P and the drill head as your stroke. The drill press should have adjustable throw stops on it, use some 1/2" round bar to measure out .500" thickness and then use that round bar as a guide for you .500" of stroke on the adjustable stops. Once it's all setup your throw of the drill press should only move .500" and it should release the pressure plate. While holding the drill press handle down releasing the discs you should be able to see light between each disc. Can you move each disc freely? if not then you need more shimming on the disc the drags or does not move.

 

well dam the luck, i dont have a press an i already have it in the car, i wonder if there is a way to check clearance once its already installed. is there a McLeod rep on here?

 

Hey Rudy, I found this this morning.
http://www.mcleodind.com/forum/index.php

 

I'm thread digging to see if anyone's experienced something similar to my situation in a CTS-V.

I have the RST in both a 4th gen Camaro and in the v. I've never had an issue with the Camaro after a few years of hard HPDE events and street driving.

The v, however, tends to stick if allowed to hold against the clutch like in a sloped parking lot. It feels almost as if the discs get bound on the input shaft of the transmission & it's nearly impossible to get it out of gear with or without the engine running. I've tried pumping the clutch pedal several times to no avail. I've found if I crank the car & abruptly release the pedal some & reapply without fully engaging the clutch that it will release with ease. I've forced the trans out of gear before as well & everything works like it should. I can also pull out of the spot, push the clutch & it's free again. I've set the parking brake & left it in gear & it doesn't do it.

Otherwise no issues & it drives flawlessly once I get it out of it's bound up situation

Anyone experienced something like this & what did you find?

 

You are having hydraulic issues... probably your clutch master assuming you replaced the slave that goes over the input shaft when you replaced the clutch.

 

I have the McLeod clutch master and it works great. The only issue my installer mentioned was the swivel bearing was a bit too wide to fit on the clutch pedal so he ground it down some.

 

First one I did years ago took me a couple times to get it set up correctly. Did you ever get it working correctly?