Bull

iTrader: (2)

I'm well into my T56 swap at this point. never having worked with a manual trans car, I have some questions.

Is it advisable for me to have the used flywheel that came with my trans resurfaced, or just buy a new one? In either case, do I have to worry about balancing it to match the rest of my reciprocating assembly?

Can anyone suggest a modestly priced clutch assembly for a car that is just a stock driver? Some of these clutch kits are waaay out of my budget price range.

Thanks for taking the time to help.

Dave

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

IIRC the LT1 is externally balanced with the flywheel, so you might have to get everything balanced, I would try to find out for sure. Either way, I would recommend getting it resurfaced, especially with a new clutch. Either a ram or spec regular clutch replacement will work fine for stock power.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Ok, how does that work? If you are just swapping a trans, how can you balance the flywheel to the recip assembly buried inside the engine?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Well the flywheel can only go on one way, and there is nothing in the A4-M6 conversion write-up (which is pretty detailed) on balancing with a new flywheel, so I guess you'd be fine with any used flywheel. But I would get it resurfaced for sure. Good luck with it all.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Take the your old flexplate and the new flywheel to a machine shop that does balancing and tell them to make the flywheel match the flexplate. Might as well have them resurface it while they're at it.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

I'm definitely getting it resurfaced. Just got a quote of $35-50 from the NAPA machine shop near me...sounds like money well spent.

Would like a definitive answer on the balancing, though. How many who have done the swap have worried about balancing, and how many have not? From moving them the other day, I'd say the flywheel is a lot heavier than the flexplate, and to make them the same weight a lot of metal would have to be removed from the flywheel.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I've only done it on a LS1 which is internally balanced. The weight of the flywheel/flexplate is not the issue, its how the weight is distributed on it...to offset the weight of the internals. Internally balanced engines have weights inserted into the crank to offset the weight of the pistons and rods. Externally balanced has weights and/or holes in the flywheel/flexplate to offset this weight. Do what was mentioned above, take the flexplate and the flywheel to a machine shop.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

ooohh, that's how it works. That makes more sense!

I'm still hoping some LT1 swappers will chime in here, just out of curiosity.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

We just did this swap on a 3rd gen firebird this winter (1pc rear seal, same as LT1)----do as I posted above and you'll be just fine....promise.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

I just had mine balanced, it was off 18 grams. For the LS1 they recommend under 6 grams neutral balance.

BALLSS

On a stock motor (LT1) you simply install a "stock" flywheel. There will be a alignment pin hole for the flywheel just as the flexplate has. the weight is cast into the flywheel and yes the flywheel is 'heavier" than a flexplate but it is the "balance" that matters.

get the flywheel resurfaced and you are good. "IF" you have a rebuilt motor that is "internally" balanced than you need to get a "neutral" balanced FW or flexplate.

AutoZone sells a clutch kit with LT4 PP and organic disc for about $200 that will work very well on stock applications. If their clutch says "valeo" on PP & disc that is a stock clutch branded for them. If it says 'made in china" and "raybestos" on the disc....walk away. ZOOM, RAM, SPEC all offer a good "stock" clutch as their bottom line models. basically the same as a stock clutch but more $ than a "AutoZone" (or other part store brand)

I might note a clutch PP has a paint dab on it you are supposed to match up with the paint dab on a stock FW. If you can preserve that mark on the used FW before resurface that is a good idea. With that said I did the swap and bought a new factory FW which did not have the paint dab and never had a 'balance" problem.

I also got a "remanufactured" FW at Kragen for $30 with my core.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

******, that's all very helpful information, thank you.

Do you happen to know the AutoZone part number for that good clutch kit? I just went to their website, entered what car I had, and they said there were no results for clutch kits. Probably just a poorly developed website.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Anyone ever heard of these guys, for an under $200 clutch kit? Appears to be made in USA....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Camar...mZ190241128001

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Without a close up picture I couldn't tell you for sure but it looks just like the new stock clutch & PP that I put in my car when I did my clutch swap. Mine said "Valeo" on it as mentioned above.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

According to their website that I found, they rebuild everything right here in the USA. Been around since the 60's. I'm going to try them out. Hard to find American companies actually still doing business from America these days. They have excellent feedback on eBay, too.