Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

I do not know because I have not tested the Mcleod in the cars we were having problems with. I would have, but they aren't available.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Tick is Jonathan's last name I believe.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

WADDISME

iTrader: (4)

It is actually one of the better rep shops in our area, and have years of satisfied customers to back them up. But you are not from around here so you would probably not know that. Like he said, you don't have to buy his stuff, but the rest of us are excited about it, so go find another thread to nay say in and stop cluttering up this one.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

If you would take the time to read over the thread you would find several reasons why anyone should try our cylinder. Most of your questions have already been answered. We have stated that adjustability is better due to the turnbuckle setup, we have stated the hiem joint will fit with the clip unlike others, the larger bore is more capable of offering a complete release with ALL setups, the cylinder itself is replaceable for far less than a new Mcleod or even a stock master, it is rebuildable for about $30, it uses a -4 hose end rather than the odd roll pin setup, and most importantly it will be available.

Blu1 and Alvin both have C5 vettes, both have longtubes, and both make between 440rwhp and 500rwhp. For your setup (a bolt on car with an LS6 clutch), unless the Mcleod gives you trouble, would probably offer similar results when compared to the Mcleod.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

You actually gave exactly what I wanted to know, ALMOST. You said, "we have stated the hiem joint will fit with the clip unlike others." So you don't think the clip fits with the others? Just so you know I have the clip on my mcleod. It is difficult to get on but I did. I figured it would be unsafe to drive with out it. Kinda like driving without lug nuts.

that first paragraph you gave and then you clarified that the other cars have long tubes was all I freaking needed to know!

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

I know for a fact that the Rams joint will not fit without clearancing. I usually have to grind the ball to get the clip into the groove. I'm not sure about the Mcleod but I'll take your word that it works.

Friday evening we got the first f-body kit installed in a running car and it seems to show the same improvements as the vettes did. It is also running a Tex clutch and was having difficulty shifting at high rpm/wot. It has longtube stainless headers that are uncoated and theres no wrap on the line right now. FWIW, the cylinder we replaced was a new Ram unit we just installed about a month ago.

I'll post up more results as soon as we get them.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

Thanks... I'll keep watching this thread. Sounds like an awesome peice since its been tested and I've been told that...

yea the mcleod is difficult as hell to get that clip on... As you can see in this thread, I am a very patient person and I like to get things figured out. Truthfully, from what I'm reading about your mc, the tex clutch is only half as good without your mc. Why don't you guys try a car with a tex clutch and a mcleod mc and then put your mc in and see if there's an improvement.

I think my problem with my car is a mixture between stock clutch( not the original) and heat from my headers. I am running dot 4 fluid, ls6 clutch, stock(not orig)slave, and mcleod mc. My shifter is a stock hurst with a ws6store 6.5 stick, and a hurst shift ball. My shifter feels DAMN good with the positioning I have in it. It feels solid too. Say if I just raced the pedal some times get real hard... Every now and then I can actually sense the clutch slipping during my super fast shifts. That makes me think I need a stronger clutch. Maybe if the mc could release the fluid faster that would help... I don't know. I am however tired of spending cash on experiments on a college budget. I want a sure shot way to make things better.

So on the install is the mounting bolt one of those u-bolts like on the factory one or is it two seperate bolts like on the mcleod? It seems like you said something about the host that goes to the slave not needing a pin... Does this line already have the drill mod? Is the hose it self a larger inside diameter than the stock hose?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

That is exactly my situation.

Tex Clutch
High RPM shifting issue
Does have a wrapped line tucked under a head shield.
LT Stainless headers
Making under 400 rwhp.
New Ram unit with a shaved ball lol.

This unit needs to be mass produced, NOW!!!

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I just finished editing/deleteing a **** load of posts on this page. For future reference:

1. No outright bashing of sponsor products is allowed.

2. If you are questioning a sponsors products/service be sure to keep your posts to a technical discussion, no name calling or anything closely related to it.

3. If the sponsor does not give you a appropriate response to your technical question then you need to decide if that dealer is someone you would like to do business with.

Thats all. Hopefully this new MC will solve a lot of the problems that the Mcleods had such as bleed down.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

7camaro7,

If you are running a stock clutch I cant figure out why you are so concerned with the MC when you probably need a new clutch. A new MC doesnt help much when you need a new clutch.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

But I'm not so sure I need a new clutch though... Kinda like the guys with the tex clutch. They don't need a new clutch, they need a better mc. Maybe I need a better clutch.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

This is why i say when you get a new performance clutch you get a new performance MC as well.

The first time I got a new clutch i got a new McLeod and didnt have any issues until the MC eventually started leaking down a while later.

awd2rwd

iTrader: (17)

Count me in for one of the c5 models

Chris Stewart

iTrader: (1)

I went to the track Saturday and every run had shifting probs. I shouldn't race it again until it can be addressed. We just replaced all the fluid with DOT5 and bled. The car is trailered so there's no heat issue. The pedal and shifter action is fine under normal driving. To describe the problem, the shifter feels real tight near WOT. It just won't move between gears without completely lifting throttle. I managed a 10.60 like that, so powershifting would do wonders! In 2 of 3 runs I missed the 3-4 shift, and that should be the easiest shift to make.

Does installing this product require bleeding the line? If yes, then I may not do for a while. We just installed a new SFI bell and that was a big job. Sadly we did not think to add a remote bleeder... Not anxious to tear into it real soon because of that.

Here's the good run, still notice how much time is lost between gears:



The bad run, speaks for itself:

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Of course a new MC needs to be bled but you can bench bleed it easily before you install it, no need to tear into the bell housing or anything.

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Do you guys still need an Fbody unit tested? Previously I had a bastard child of a clutch setup I put together that 60 fted easy (1.4 on 275 radial no problem), but when I left hard it woudlnt disengage well, or at all when it was in the 1.4s. I have a Textralia in the car now and its harder to 60 ft as it engages a little harsher (been 1.52 so far but it likes to hook and bog or spin no middle ground) I work both clutches out a good bit, shift at 7K and leave a little higher than that when the track is there.

If I could run previous clutch setup successfully I think it would go low low 1.4s, and if engagement is clean with that thing I think everyone would be covered

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

I think a lot of your problems may be coming from the clutch rather than the master you're using. If you've ever really slipped the clutch badly I bet you have noticed that the tranny practically won't go into gear, sometimes for quite a while after the slip occured. Maybe a little slip is occuring when you race or run the car hard, which is heating the fluid and causing the problems you've explained. Less restriction in the line will allow the clutch to engage and disengage quicker and our setup is probably atleast a little less restrictive due to the true -4 line and end. Theres no pin on the line where it goes to the master, just a -4 hose end....the part that has to be drilled out isn't even on our line. The factory line however is a -4, so theres no overall size difference.

The adapter that bolts to the firewall is threaded, and two supplied bolts hold it in place from the inside.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

We should have vette kits ready to go out by the middle of the week. F-body kits are probably a week away due to the custom bracket.

We've already got quite a few guys waiting for them, so if you want to place an order just give us a call and we'll get your name and info on the list.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

You will have to bleed the system. Both vettes we done had remote bleeders already so bleeding them was a piece of cake. Our vette kit actually mounts the cylinder to the clutch pedal assembly while out of the car. This makes it very easy to bolt up, then the pedal assembly is re-installed with the cylinder which will slip through the existing hole in the firewall. Once the pedal is mounted back into place you can then install the resevoir along with the line (but don't plug it to the slave yet). Fill the cylinder with fluid and have an assistant press the plug that is in the end of the line inward (its like a little check valve in the end that goes to the slave). If nothing comes out at first, don't worry, just pump the pedal lightly and fluid will soon start to flow out. Let it run out for a few moments while keeping the resevoir full. At this point, the new components should be bled fairly well. Now plug the line into the slave and check for a firm pedal. Not always will there be a full pedal at first, but with a few pumps of the pedal (just pump the free play of the pedal with strokes going down to the point where it actually feels like there is dissengagement with the pp occuring) it usually firms right up.

Its basically the same idea as bench bleeding it, you just do it in the car since the resevoir has to be attached after the cylinder is through the firewall.