shifting a manual without the clutch
#1
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A famous Indy500 driver taught me how to properly drive my 2002 SS LE a few weeks ago. I thought I knew how to drive a car with a clutch since I've had manual cars since 1984. Here is what he taught me:
1. You don't need to use the clutch as you going up through the gears. He siad it doesn't hurt anything. The whole point is that the clutch is engaged and the less you push the clutch pedal in, the better. Try it sometime. I've gotten good at it, although I cringed in the beginning....
2. When you are approaching a stop, just pop the car out of gear without the clutch if you just want to brake to a stop instead of down shifting. He said that it's better to use the car to slow down the car instead of the brakes, but I want to get new brakes so I don't care about the wear.
3. Don't hold the clutch in at a stop. Have it out of gear and when you are ready to go (like at a light), then use the clutch to get into first gear.
Was he right, or is this bad for my transmission/clutch?
Thanks for your advice in advance!
1. You don't need to use the clutch as you going up through the gears. He siad it doesn't hurt anything. The whole point is that the clutch is engaged and the less you push the clutch pedal in, the better. Try it sometime. I've gotten good at it, although I cringed in the beginning....
2. When you are approaching a stop, just pop the car out of gear without the clutch if you just want to brake to a stop instead of down shifting. He said that it's better to use the car to slow down the car instead of the brakes, but I want to get new brakes so I don't care about the wear.
3. Don't hold the clutch in at a stop. Have it out of gear and when you are ready to go (like at a light), then use the clutch to get into first gear.
Was he right, or is this bad for my transmission/clutch?
Thanks for your advice in advance!
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Well according to the theory of every race car driver I ever read, they say to use the brakes to slow the car down, not the engine. Unless you're in a Formula 1 car, then they have a specific tuneing table for engine braking. I always slow to a stop in neutral.
I never hold the clutch at a stop light/sigh, Im always in neutral.
As far as the upshifting w/o a clutch... I dont know about that.
Yes, you can do it with a faceplated or strait cut transmission and a sliper clutch, but I have never heard of doing it with a standard synchronized unit and a regular clutch.
I even asked Six Speeds inc about it, and was told that if I upshift a faceplated transmission with a standard action clutch, I will rip the friction plate in half.
I never hold the clutch at a stop light/sigh, Im always in neutral.
As far as the upshifting w/o a clutch... I dont know about that.
Yes, you can do it with a faceplated or strait cut transmission and a sliper clutch, but I have never heard of doing it with a standard synchronized unit and a regular clutch.
I even asked Six Speeds inc about it, and was told that if I upshift a faceplated transmission with a standard action clutch, I will rip the friction plate in half.
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i shift my 6 speed without the clutch daily. i also di it in my 5-speed c1500 daily. its just natural to me. iv been doing it for 2 years divided between 2 cars. never had a problem. u just need to be comfortable driving stick. you CAN mess something up if you completely screw it up. you can downshift without the clutch too. just rev the engine high and push it into gear.
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Yes you can but ther is extra load on your synchronizer friction materials. They will only take so much of this before they wear out . That wear out will be way earlier than if you use the clutch.
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Thats the secret! LOL
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Like others have said, I just don't think its a good idea. The clutch was put there by enginners for a reason.
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With older manual clutch designs, you'd technically be "saving" the throwout bearing by not using the clutch......but your process of "saving" that $30 part is tearing up synchros that will cost hundreds of dollars to repair/rebuild......not very cost effective.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Newer hydraulic throwout bearings are always touching the pressure plate fingers, even with your foot off the clutch. Not using the clutch will not extend the life of the bearing in any way.
Synchros are designed to allow smoother/faster shifts without rev matching. The synchros were NOT made to allow clutchless shifting, doing so WILL cause premature wear/failure.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Newer hydraulic throwout bearings are always touching the pressure plate fingers, even with your foot off the clutch. Not using the clutch will not extend the life of the bearing in any way.
Synchros are designed to allow smoother/faster shifts without rev matching. The synchros were NOT made to allow clutchless shifting, doing so WILL cause premature wear/failure.
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From actual experience, shifting without the clutch killed my synchros.
My slave cyl blew out on the way to work one day, and I had to drive it the rest of the way to work shifting without the clutch. I already know how to do this from driving big rigs. I got to work fine with out grinding any gears. But when I put in the new slave, I went for a test drive and the first time I tried to shift fast to 3rd, its started grinding. 4th quickly followed and I had to get it rebuilt.
2&3 on your list are fine though
My slave cyl blew out on the way to work one day, and I had to drive it the rest of the way to work shifting without the clutch. I already know how to do this from driving big rigs. I got to work fine with out grinding any gears. But when I put in the new slave, I went for a test drive and the first time I tried to shift fast to 3rd, its started grinding. 4th quickly followed and I had to get it rebuilt.
2&3 on your list are fine though
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With older manual clutch designs, you'd technically be "saving" the throwout bearing by not using the clutch......but your process of "saving" that $30 part is tearing up synchros that will cost hundreds of dollars to repair/rebuild......not very cost effective.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Newer hydraulic throwout bearings are always touching the pressure plate fingers, even with your foot off the clutch. Not using the clutch will not extend the life of the bearing in any way.
Synchros are designed to allow smoother/faster shifts without rev matching. The synchros were NOT made to allow clutchless shifting, doing so WILL cause premature wear/failure.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Newer hydraulic throwout bearings are always touching the pressure plate fingers, even with your foot off the clutch. Not using the clutch will not extend the life of the bearing in any way.
Synchros are designed to allow smoother/faster shifts without rev matching. The synchros were NOT made to allow clutchless shifting, doing so WILL cause premature wear/failure.
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I've heard this so many times before and I just think to myself that it is total BS. Why would it be better? Is it easier, faster, cheaper to replace the clutch and parts over some 2 hour brake pad replacement? Hell, I've got over 100k miles on my stock ceramic pads and they are still good.
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