Updated: THREE trips to TNT with pics + vids
#167
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The procedure was, to cut the steel wedding ring collar off first. I slit it down the middle to split it with a chisel. They actually crack very easily so this wasn't hard to do. Then i had to destroy the cage on the bearing so I could remove the rollers and have full access to the inner race. Then I had to split that race as well. The problem is the brake backing plate is so close to that race its hard to get a complete cut on it so it requires a little more patience. Overall though, not hard to do at all if you are competent with a air cutter and a press.
#171
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This is true. I'm in a constant battle for performance vs $. Im not saying the brakes were THE best thing but they were near the top. I selected each weight reduction mod carefully, and decided if I would miss whatever I was getting rid of. So far it has paid off because I havent noticed any difference and I dont feel like the car is a tin can race car so ive succeeded in maintaining a stockish feel when looking at it and driving it. I believe I have exhausted my options without compromising my goal, so at the end of the day I need to find other ways to go faster.
#172
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So I finally decided to collect the fruits of my labor. Track time, TNT, we been planning it for over a month. Well the weather turned out really nice and DA was in the 750-1000 range. So, everyone and their momma came out.
![Name: 20151002_192146_zps4nx1t7fy.jpg
Views: 1624
Size: 2.11 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646128d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151002_192146_zps4nx1t7fy.jpg)
Long story short I made three passes. I adjusted the coilovers in between each pass looking for traction. The second two passes I wheel hopped bad. Due to the crowd I decided that was enough for me for one night. I did noticed with the new brakes I can brake stall really high now. With the stock brakes it would push through pretty quick. I notice a bad vibration on the way home, and Im thinking its driveshaft related, broken ujoint or something. I made it halfway home and had to call the old lady to come bring the car hauler.
![Name: 20151003_023521_zpslnvqnqrh.jpg
Views: 1608
Size: 3.43 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646129d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151003_023521_zpslnvqnqrh.jpg)
This, doesn't look right.
![Name: 20151003_023454_zps4fanrirg.jpg
Views: 1605
Size: 4.07 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646130d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151003_023454_zps4fanrirg.jpg)
Decided to not chance it and just make the repair on the trailer:
![Name: 20151003_123520_zpsnsohqezj.jpg
Views: 1624
Size: 3.85 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646131d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151003_123520_zpsnsohqezj.jpg)
Wheel holes are wallered out, brake rotor holes are too, and the centering register on the axle is fucked. So I will be replacing all of them. Caliper took a little rubbing from the rotor but looks mostly cosmetic.
![Name: 20151004_173734_zpsa23fu5ai.jpg
Views: 1589
Size: 2.05 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646132d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151004_173734_zpsa23fu5ai.jpg)
Strange was so kind to drill both 12mm and 1/2" stud holes. I will be going back with 1/2" this go round to see if I can stop this **** from happening again.
![Name: 20151002_192146_zps4nx1t7fy.jpg
Views: 1624
Size: 2.11 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646128d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151002_192146_zps4nx1t7fy.jpg)
Long story short I made three passes. I adjusted the coilovers in between each pass looking for traction. The second two passes I wheel hopped bad. Due to the crowd I decided that was enough for me for one night. I did noticed with the new brakes I can brake stall really high now. With the stock brakes it would push through pretty quick. I notice a bad vibration on the way home, and Im thinking its driveshaft related, broken ujoint or something. I made it halfway home and had to call the old lady to come bring the car hauler.
![Name: 20151003_023521_zpslnvqnqrh.jpg
Views: 1608
Size: 3.43 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646129d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151003_023521_zpslnvqnqrh.jpg)
This, doesn't look right.
![Name: 20151003_023454_zps4fanrirg.jpg
Views: 1605
Size: 4.07 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646130d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151003_023454_zps4fanrirg.jpg)
Decided to not chance it and just make the repair on the trailer:
![Name: 20151003_123520_zpsnsohqezj.jpg
Views: 1624
Size: 3.85 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646131d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151003_123520_zpsnsohqezj.jpg)
Wheel holes are wallered out, brake rotor holes are too, and the centering register on the axle is fucked. So I will be replacing all of them. Caliper took a little rubbing from the rotor but looks mostly cosmetic.
![Name: 20151004_173734_zpsa23fu5ai.jpg
Views: 1589
Size: 2.05 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646132d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151004_173734_zpsa23fu5ai.jpg)
Strange was so kind to drill both 12mm and 1/2" stud holes. I will be going back with 1/2" this go round to see if I can stop this **** from happening again.
![Name: 20151004_200957_zps1xwm1ual.jpg
Views: 1601
Size: 2.55 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/646133d1501480504-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151004_200957_zps1xwm1ual.jpg)
#176
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I'm not 100% sure but ARP makes mostly pull in studs. Strange axles are threaded so I'm going with strange 1/2 studs which are bigger then the 12 mm I just broke.
#180
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So I waited about a week for new 1/2 studs and a brake rotor from Strange. I didn't get in a hurry to get it fixed due to I'm still waiting on a wheel. I went ahead and patched it together yesterday and put the stock wheels back on the rear to get it off the trailer.
This is the damage to the caliper where the rotor rubbed the inside of it. Looks like i stopped in time and didnt do major damage to the caliper.
![Name: 20151017_141507_zpsmgkyggkz.jpg
Views: 1641
Size: 2.71 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/645244d1501477935-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151017_141507_zpsmgkyggkz.jpg)
Here's the new 1/2 studs after installation.
![Name: 20151017_140151_zpsjdeiqqel.jpg
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Size: 3.22 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/645245d1501477935-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151017_140151_zpsjdeiqqel.jpg)
Here's the complete assembly with the new center register and rotor. You can see from this picture the rotor is stud-centric meaning it depends on the studs to center itself. Common sense tells you if it fits with 1/2 studs and 12mm are smaller, then there was some slack with the 12mm. Enough to cause an issue? Well I cant say for sure but I do believe these were designed to work best with 1/2 because the fit is much tighter. Strange should mention this detail in their product literature I think.
![Name: 20151017_142935_zpsoziqwlwu.jpg
Views: 1569
Size: 3.39 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/645246d1501477935-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151017_142935_zpsoziqwlwu.jpg)
I'm making a lug nut swap also. I'm including this picture for those who may not be familiar. Stock wheels use a hex nut conical seat on the top left. Drag wheels use something like the mag type hex nut with a washer. That type goes through the wheel to grip the stud all the way at the base making it stronger. Even with stock wheels you can use the hex nut ET (extended thread) and it gives a similar effect of the mag type where it actually passes through the wheel and engages more thread and in to a further point.
This is the damage to the caliper where the rotor rubbed the inside of it. Looks like i stopped in time and didnt do major damage to the caliper.
![Name: 20151017_141507_zpsmgkyggkz.jpg
Views: 1641
Size: 2.71 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/645244d1501477935-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151017_141507_zpsmgkyggkz.jpg)
Here's the new 1/2 studs after installation.
![Name: 20151017_140151_zpsjdeiqqel.jpg
Views: 1620
Size: 3.22 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/645245d1501477935-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151017_140151_zpsjdeiqqel.jpg)
Here's the complete assembly with the new center register and rotor. You can see from this picture the rotor is stud-centric meaning it depends on the studs to center itself. Common sense tells you if it fits with 1/2 studs and 12mm are smaller, then there was some slack with the 12mm. Enough to cause an issue? Well I cant say for sure but I do believe these were designed to work best with 1/2 because the fit is much tighter. Strange should mention this detail in their product literature I think.
![Name: 20151017_142935_zpsoziqwlwu.jpg
Views: 1569
Size: 3.39 MB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/645246d1501477935-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-20151017_142935_zpsoziqwlwu.jpg)
I'm making a lug nut swap also. I'm including this picture for those who may not be familiar. Stock wheels use a hex nut conical seat on the top left. Drag wheels use something like the mag type hex nut with a washer. That type goes through the wheel to grip the stud all the way at the base making it stronger. Even with stock wheels you can use the hex nut ET (extended thread) and it gives a similar effect of the mag type where it actually passes through the wheel and engages more thread and in to a further point.
![Name: tech.info.4_zpsjrytdgfs.gif
Views: 1427
Size: 21.1 KB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/multimedia-exchange/645247d1501477935-updated-three-trips-tnt-pics-vids-tech.info.4_zpsjrytdgfs.gif)