Nickstock98t/a

can you write me up a way to flush my radiator?

Stocktonz28

Yea... after my deployment i turned into a very clean person.

Ive learned to love cleaness. After sleeping in random haji houses on dirty concreate roof tops sand mud palmgroves going 3 months without a shower i changed.

Stocktonz28

I do it on a lift at a auto skill shop.
un plug the coolent vaulve from the top both of them.

Lift the car and up plug the coolent vaulve from the on the radaitor its in the middle of the radiator at the bottom. and theres also another plug somewhere id have to look for it. it takes like 3-4 jugs of coolent to refil it though.

Some pepole say you never have to change it. Me its cheap and easy why not do it?

phantoms

iTrader: (1)

change them for sure

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

DO NOT DISCONNECT YOUR AC LINES TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS
Who ever told you this is a ******* idiot.

Stocktonz28

I have to so i can get to them. its 10 times easier if you disconnect it.

and for what and extra $20's?

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

I used a single set of Taylor 10.4 mm wires for like 120k miles. I changed them because I had a misfire issue, but it turned out that a bad plug was causing the issue, not a bad wire. Those Taylor wires are awesome, but I've had MSDs fall apart on me.

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Don't disconnect your AC lines!!! You're wasting money, and possibly damaging your AC system.

Instead, remove your coil pack rail on the passenger's side to get access to those plugs. The plug furthest back on the passenger's side is much easier to get to from underneath the car. If you haven't removed your AIR system, you'll also have to unbolt the AIR tube from the exhaust manifold. The coil rail and the tube are both 10mm head bolts. A little trick... after the first time, don't ever put the furthest bolt on the coil rail back in. It's not needed, and it's a real pain to get to when you do a tune up.

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

Don't disconnect your A/C to change your spark plugs, that really is unnecessary. You can't just put more freon in it without adding oil as well, and making sure it is properly charged requires a few special tools.

You can change your plugs but not wires with no problems as long as you pull the wires off in one piece. Don't pull on the wires, only pull on the boots so that you don't pull the wire out.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Everyone acts like changing plugs is a such a big deal..dont listen to them..I change mine every six months which is usually around 15,000 miles ... I do spark plug replacment in 25 - 30 minutes...numbers 1-7 from the top and number 8 from the bottom..using the correct tools makes it EZ..YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DISCONNECT YOUR A/C TO CHANGE PLUGS!!.....geeeze where did that one come from ... on top of that releasing freon into the atmosphere is a big time no no...and very lame ... here are the tools to use ... a 3/8 inch flex head ratchet, a 1 inch extention, a 3 inch extention, ( you will see which ones are needed on which plug by looking at the plug) and a spark plug socket, for number 8 you use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter and your spark plug socket...stock plug wires will last a long time...if you have 75,000+ miles on them go ahead and change them.. don't forget to use dielectric grease and anti seize ...

PS It sounds like you need some LS1 service/mod info so If you want someone to walk you through it go to www.installuniversity.com and click on the spark plug and wire swap link. www.ls1howto.com has some helpful info too that you may want to read along with photos.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Releasing freon into the atmosphere is very invironmentally irrisponsible and very lame...you obviously do not know very much about how your A/C works..quit giving out BS info... you don't have a clue.

shtnfrds

iTrader: (1)

wow i must have skipped where you said you release the freon just to change plugs, thats just stupid, and it probably doesnt take any less time in the long run since you now have to refill the whole ac system. it would have been easier and more efficiant, not to mention SAFER, to just deal the the ac lines being a little bit in the way.

oneBADDz

iTrader: (26)

I would never take advice from some who says
-get a spark changer
-use a mirror to find the plugs
-put on the silvery stuff
-put the spark plug in the "slot"
-driver side "sparks" and passenger "sparks"
-unscrew the black piece attached to the can thingy

His terms and instructions SCREAM "don't trust me or anything i say"

Note: words spelled wrong in his post: Peice x 3, shouldent, attatch, rember, passanger x 2, recomend.

Seriously, unhook a/c lines, vent the freon into the air, and watch out cause it stings? Guys like this are the reason R12 isn't allowed anymore. Before long we won't have 134a in the parts store because of people abusing the convenience with which it is available.

Nickstock98t/a

hey i changed the 4 in the driver side so far. i'll do the rest tomorrow. i got ngk tr-5 on them! the guys at advance auto said its oem better than stock

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

It's a good plug, most people on here recommend changing to them

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Well said sir...the guy is an idiot..posting up information that far from being correct should be a crime....now that I think about it releasing freon like that may be a crime..if not it should be..behavior like that gives hot rodders a bad and underserved reputation.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

[QUOTE=No im not gay. I love big girls 180lbs+[/QUOTE]

Sig worthy

It's like pizza. It's all good as long as it doesn't smell like anchovies

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

I am EPA certified to handle every type of refrigerant made. It is a crime to dump it out, but the chances of getting caught doing it to your car at your house is slim. And the amount or refrigerant it holds would only get a small fine.
But on the other hand, how many people have seen the two glass containers hermetically sealed together with refrigerant oil in one and water in the other? No one? Not surprising. This demonstration was done by a major refrigerant manufacturer to show how synthetic refrigerant oil (thatis used in these cars) 'sucks' water into it.
In the time it takes to change the plugs with the ref lines disconnected, the oil has absorbed some moisture from the air. Nothing is said about running nitrogen through the lines to keep air out (the proper way to do it) or at the least capping the ends of the lines, or even most important using a vacuum pump after opening up the lines.
EDIT Moisture contaminated oil forms a barrier on the inside of everything the ref goes through, what this means is reduced cooling performance. Usually no do it your selfer can figure out why they have good ref pressures and low cooling, and none know how to resolve the problem.

And a final observation: for such an **** retentive military guy, I think spelling should be up there on the priorities list.
Education is questioned when your grammar is full of errors.

PS: non military here, no spell check used, no post edit.

NeedaV8foundation

iTrader: (4)

did mine yesterday... the easiest way to do the back ones is to put the car up in the air if you can. if not, have fun!

Nickstock98t/a

i have a 1998 which makes it harder to follow the instructions/picture instructions on www.INSTALLUNIVERSITY.com for the passenger side coil pack rail bolts
since you have a 1998 as well can you give me tips on that? im really starting to beat myself up

im starting to give up and just leave the passenger side alone. i already took the two 10mm bolts from the air pipe manifold on the passenger side.

this really sucks

im stuck