EGR and AIR delete question
#42
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: north dallas
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i never heard of the vaccum line on the back of the intake for air. i took the air system of my 98 and dident plug anything. i hope there is nothing back there i need to know this.
#46
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a '01 SS with the LS6 intake manifold. Can I remove the diverter thing that is on the driver's side rear of the manifold or does that need to stay in place? I plan on removing the air pump also and would like to get as much clutter as possible out of the engine compartment. The car will be getting tuned shortly.
Last edited by Lots of Speed 1; 07-30-2009 at 10:35 PM.
#47
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So on my '01 when i buy race headers i'll have to take out the AIR pump too? How hard of a job is that? Seems like it should be fairly simple but anything on any car is rarely simple.
#48
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't think you have to take it out, if you do take it out everyone says it's pretty simple.
#51
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (49)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My 99 didnt have it, and in the picture where the three hoses come together and there is a valve looking thing, mine just had a "T" fitting.
Also for the AIR I just pulled the fuse and stuck a pipe plug in the hose until I get a chance to pull the thing out of there.
Also for the AIR I just pulled the fuse and stuck a pipe plug in the hose until I get a chance to pull the thing out of there.
#52
On The Tree
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: IL side of STL
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This has already prolly been answered but I have a 01 WS6 and wondered why they put a smaller cam in so I have done extensive research online and through my engine builder and what happened was when the Z06 came out in vettes in '01 there was a lot of extra parts so quite a few were used on '01-'02 F body's, the biggest were LS6 intake which put out 17RWHP over the 98-00 F bodys, and 15% in 01 and 25% in 02 got the LS6 block which keeps engine bay pressures down quite a bit. But with the LS6 intake also came bigger injectors, increased flow air cleaner with larger MAF sensor, closer tolerance main bearing for longer lasting bearing life, LS6 exhaust manifolds and a few smaller things. There is a whole lot more small thing done to the 01-02 LS1's that wasnt said in the beginning. Anyways the 01-02's had about 30RWHP more than the previous years but still had low torque on bottom end like 98-00 LS1's and they needed to knock emmisions down so they installed the LQ4 6.0L truck cam and it fixed it all, lowered emmisions and had about 30ft lbs more tq @3,000RPM than 98-00 LS1's and still had more HP but it drops off around 5,500 instead of 5,800 like 98-00. But that is all why you see numbers at the track or in magazines from 01-02 LS1 F bodys that are always better than previous yrs, most of them ran 13.1-13.3, auto or 6spd, and 98-00 usually dynoed around 260-275RWHP and were rated at 320hp at the crank with WS6 or SS, but like anyone dyno shop will tell you the 01-02 325hp rated WS6/SS usually pulled 305-315RWHP, which is crazy but tru. A guy that owns a dyno shop I go to said he dynoed a '00 Z28 with only a lid and msd plug wires that put down 310RWHP, he said all those F-bodys are all over tha place on dynoes but the 01-02's always pull quite a bit more and the 98's usually have lower numbers than rated for some reason.
#53
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This has already prolly been answered but I have a 01 WS6 and wondered why they put a smaller cam in so I have done extensive research online and through my engine builder and what happened was when the Z06 came out in vettes in '01 there was a lot of extra parts so quite a few were used on '01-'02 F body's, the biggest were LS6 intake which put out 17RWHP over the 98-00 F bodys, and 15% in 01 and 25% in 02 got the LS6 block which keeps engine bay pressures down quite a bit. But with the LS6 intake also came bigger injectors, increased flow air cleaner with larger MAF sensor, closer tolerance main bearing for longer lasting bearing life, LS6 exhaust manifolds and a few smaller things. There is a whole lot more small thing done to the 01-02 LS1's that wasnt said in the beginning. Anyways the 01-02's had about 30RWHP more than the previous years but still had low torque on bottom end like 98-00 LS1's and they needed to knock emmisions down so they installed the LQ4 6.0L truck cam and it fixed it all, lowered emmisions and had about 30ft lbs more tq @3,000RPM than 98-00 LS1's and still had more HP but it drops off around 5,500 instead of 5,800 like 98-00. But that is all why you see numbers at the track or in magazines from 01-02 LS1 F bodys that are always better than previous yrs, most of them ran 13.1-13.3, auto or 6spd, and 98-00 usually dynoed around 260-275RWHP and were rated at 320hp at the crank with WS6 or SS, but like anyone dyno shop will tell you the 01-02 325hp rated WS6/SS usually pulled 305-315RWHP, which is crazy but tru. A guy that owns a dyno shop I go to said he dynoed a '00 Z28 with only a lid and msd plug wires that put down 310RWHP, he said all those F-bodys are all over tha place on dynoes but the 01-02's always pull quite a bit more and the 98's usually have lower numbers than rated for some reason.
The second bold part is more accurate...every car is different. So a 98 vs. an 02 could very well have 30rwhp difference, but thats probably more like the absolute max. Most will be pretty close still. Like 10-15
#54
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you buy the pacesetter race headers(non EGR) you dont need block off plates. All you have to do is plug up the intake to make sure dirt doesnt get in, same if you have a SLP Airlid just plug the hole on the side. As far as the Air pump all i did was pull the Air pump Fuse/Relay off and thats it. If you want to remove the whole system thats fine but you dont really have to. You will get an SES light for the Exhaust Gas Recirculation sensors and that can be tuned out. The SES light will not affect the car at all. Your rear O2's can also be tuned out if you are running an Off Road Y-pipe. Just make sure you get a 12" O2 sensor extension and a 24" extension. If you dont want to tune out the rear 02's you can purchase O2 Simulators which trick the computer into thinking that there are o2s installed. Thats pretty much it. Good luck.
#59
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
For those saying you need to "tune the car after the delete" you don't NEED to.my car runs perfect after these deletes besides the ses
Light. Btw I used a pvc pipe block thing.oh simply tighten the bolt on top and it expands making a perfect fit.
Light. Btw I used a pvc pipe block thing.oh simply tighten the bolt on top and it expands making a perfect fit.