taws6

iTrader: (2)

Which brand was it?

I am basicly trying to find out which aftermarket crank pulley is the most likely to throw the belt, as I have herd this can be a problem.

Thanks.....

LT1Formula007

iTrader: (66)

If your talking about the Serpentine belt tensioner and pulley assembly.....
On my 2001 LS1 motor that I had in my 98 Z28, I had a bad problem with it throwing belts at around 4500 rpm. I actually had to replace the Belt and the Tensioner b/c the stock tensioner was SLIGHTLY worn and was leaning outwards just enough to throw the belt off at higher rpm's.

This problem is VERY common on LS1 engines. Katech has a tensioner for around $150.00 or so. (Maybe Less??) And they have a higher edge than the stock pulley does to prevent slipping or thrown belts. The tensioner IMHO is the main reason for the belts being thrown but other people argue that it's b/c of the pulley. I think maybe a little of both.


But if your talking about the Crank Pulley throwing the belt, An ASP or SLP Underdrive pulley is a good Underdrive Pulley to go with for the LS1 Engines...
Good Luck!

James

99_Z28

iTrader: (3)

I run a ASP, and it had came close to throwing a belt but it was hanging on by 2 ribs. But it was due to hitting the rev limiter and the 115k mile tensioner, not the pulley.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your replys.

I just edited to confirm I am interested in the aftermarket crank pulley.
Anyone else had problems?

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

SLP and Powerbond have higher walls but as stated it is usually due to the tensioner. No probs with my March here and it sees 6500 pretty regularly.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

I have a A4 with Alpine 500 watt amp and type R sub.
Will I have any issues with charging?
I just intend to do the crank pulley.
Thanks again,
Paul.

99_Z28

iTrader: (3)

In that case you will need the alt. overdrive pulley. I think it was about $25?

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

^^^ I agree

taws6

iTrader: (2)

As well as the crank pulley I guess?

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

I have almost the same setup as you, an Alpine Type R sub, Kicker 480W amp, and an A4 with a Summit Racing Underdrive Pulley (taller walls so you don't have to worry about throwing belts and a great price, Summit has been sending some $25 off $100 purchase so you might be able to find a coupon code) and the only time the voltage would drop below 13 is when I was at idle and both radiator fans were running, if only one was running then I was fine. I have HP Tuners and bumped my idle up from 550 to 650 and with the stereo on, headlights on, both fans running, and at idle I stay right at about 13. When driving I am always at the typical 14.4V. So if it is possible, get your idle bumped up 100rpms. I also used a main belt that was .25" shorter than what summit recommended.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Great, I hope to get a baby tune soon, so I can adjust my idle then.
So should I get the crank pulley AND alt pulley?

I have bought some stuff from summit before, where could I get a coupon from?

Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

asp pulleys throw belts, slp and powerbond(which are the same might i add) are the same, i have a powerbond and it never threw a belt ever and i bounce off the rev. as far as alt pulleys, if ur runin an aftermarket stereo system(subs/speakers) then yea get the alt pulley. if ur not runin a system then dont wry about it, it wont effect charging hardly at all. i just have the underdrive crank pulley on and i lost like half of a volt charging wise.

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

look into RevXtreme and their pullies. look nice and help out with the surging issues.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

It looks like you are gonna get advice both ways on this one but with the $$$ you put in your sound system I would spend $25 to make sure it gets all the juice it needs cause low current makes electronic stuff run hot and affects longevity.

I have no cool stereo like you plus my idle is set 900-925 so I run UD only with no issues.

99_Z28

iTrader: (3)

Keep in mind he has a auto...

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

I don't have the alternator pulley and with the 650rpm idle it is perfectly fine. If you had a 1000W+ amp then I would say yes, get the alternator pulley or if you drive in a lot of traffic.

1. Say at 550rpm the alternator rotates 1000 times, with the crank pulley it will rotate 750 times (25% underdrive) and with the increase in idle it will rotate 886 times (at 650rpms, 750*650/550).
2. Say at 550rpm the alternator rotates 1000 times, with the crank pulley it will rotate 750 times and with the overdrive pulley it will rotate 863 times (15% overdrive, 750*1.15)

So it is your choice, alternator pulley or tune, but the increased idle will actually give you a better charge. I never actually did these calculations before, I could probably even reduce the idle to about 625rpms and be close to what the alternator pulley would give me, maybe help gas mileage a little bit.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

So do I

And FYI a friends ASP had the plastic damper stuff start cracking after about two years. I have only had my March about seven months but a buddy has an ATI and it still looked good after 3 1/2 years and 30k when we pulled it to fix a dying oil pump recently.

Blacklightning744

iTrader: (7)

hands down though which ever underdrive u get id get the alt pulley just for insurance, its only $25.

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

It basically comes down to, do you want to increase the idle 75-100rpms or do you want to buy the alternator pulley, one would be FREE if you are getting a tune anyways and the other will be $25 which is pretty cheap. Totally up to you and as I described earlier the idle speed change (100rpms) will give you a better charg than the alternator pulley and I like the higher idle, didn't notice any change in gas mileage and it seems to idle a bit smoother. Also, you must decide before you install the crank pulley because it will require a different belt if you get the alternator pulley.

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

Damn that is a high idle, definitely no charging problems for you since full charge is like 800-850rpms.