anyone else have experiences with a 228 as a dd?

 

it has been proven it is an awesome DD cam..

tons of people on here have it... just do a search..

 

...ok.. I guess nobody has a clue about the Hot cam or the ASA.. it was an honest question. I have run the '02 LS6 cam & the Hot cam in my 346". They both have a good stock like idle. And I noticed no loss in bottom end for the power gain of the swap. For the ebay price of the LS6 cam and heads, that was probably the best bang for the buck as far as "stock" parts go. After all, they were engineered to run together. The nitrous idea isn't a bad way to go to power up a relatively stock engine either.
I was asking about the Hot and ASA cams to see if anyone had tried them with higher ratio rockers to get more lift out of them, and what that did to the power curve and manners.

 

Is this your thread or you have two screen names? We are well aware of what hotcams are, but for the effort/time/price it takes to put them in, there are much better cams out there that will make more power.

 

call comp and tell them what youre looking for and have a custom ground cam made, thats what I did. They are very good.

 

We have a winner! I should have gone this route too.

 

You gotta be kiddin me, man. Pooker asked about stock sounding cams that make power and how much in a daily driver. NOT how much he can spend on custom grinds. Even a lot of the off the shelf aftermarket grinds require spring changes etc. to optimize thier performance (including the Hot Cam). If you have to change springs and what not, you might as well hit eBay to find a set of LS6 heads for a few hundred and make a weekend out of the upgrade. The LS6 cam rocked for the $60 price tag I paid for it and the fact that it is STILL a compromise piece. It was a BIG improvement over the stock 2000 LS1 cam. Its limitations only became apparent when I started adding all kinds of other bolt ons. And yeah, there are "cams out there that make more power". But they move the power band higher in the rpm range, which is great if your car is going to the track. But it ain't the hot ticket for rush hour commuter trips.
And then most of these "performance" and "custom grinds" also require a custom tune to optimize thier performance.. which ain't cheap either. In fact, in most cases, the ebay '02 LS6 cam and heads would be cheaper than the custom tune. lol
There seem to be a two kinds of people I'm finding dominate these sites; Guys who have more than one car and can afford the downtime and install/performance mistakes. And then there are guys who seem to have endless money supplies and can afford to pay a high tech shop for a $50k build. The rest of us buy and install what we can afford in between bills of life and live in the world of compromise.
No offense pal, but I asked a legit question that was in line with this thread. If you don't know, just say that. If you DO know, share the knowedge. Either way, don't just gaff me off.

 

Have you ever driven a car with a TR224 or 228? Driveability comes from the tune. Mail order tunes for 200$ can make those baby cams plenty drivable.

You say you have run the LS6 and hotcam, any dyno numbers? Obviously you really like your LS6/hotcam so you feel you have to defend, thats fine.

I can guarantee that a TR224 or TR228 can/will have better driveability with a good tune, and make more power AND power under the curve. I really don't think 700-1000$ is much for the gains that you would get out of a well chosen cam swap.

For the OP, do a little searching on the smaller custom cams/camkits from our sponsors, I don't think you'll be disappointed.

 

My defense is in a cam that I can swap into my LS1, get a boost in performance that is measurable in my STREET DRIVING, and NOT have to pay ANYTHING for tuning or dynos. The weaknesses in the pre '02 LS1s include the heads and intake also. To be able to just swap out my cam and heads an net a 60-70 hp PREDOCUMENTED gain under the STOCK power curve, for under $600, is pretty substantial. I understand your point but, you seem to have missed my point entirely. I understand what you are saying about better power under the curve. My point is that that "curve" tends to be smaller and higher in the rpm spectrum with larger cams than "stock" or "superstock" profiles. For the small upgrades I've made to my car, the DiabloSport programmer has worked out fine. I didn't even purchase THAT until I needed it to dial in the SLP MAF and headers. Not to mention that I don't have a professional tuner in my back pocket that I can run to everytime I swap a part. I'll find a pro tuner when I finish the LS3 427cid FI engine and swap it in. And that won't be until I finish my drivetrain upgrades. Even then, I'll probably just purchase software and experiment with it myself so I'm not dependant on someone elses programming skill.
And again, within the parameters that Pookers put forth, my suggestions and questions make perfect sense. When I have $300-$500 a piece to buy a stack of aftermarket cams to test, and money to dyno each, I'll be sure to take your advice and add the Tr224 and 228 to the list.
The reason I don't have many posts is that I'd rather be driving and riding than sitting in front of my computer commentating on the game. I'm really sad because it used to be your building skill and attention to detail that earned you a really fast car. And your driving skill that won races. Now ANY moron with more money than common sense can have upwards of a 1000 HP and have LESS than no idea how it's made. SAD...
Everything in this thread is opinion. But.. just to play your advocate.. I just added my two cents.

 

I love these "which cam is BEST threads".........

''DAILY DRIVER'' means 10 different things to 10 different people....I drove a 248/254 cam everyday for a year. I liked it, but some people cant get used to that. Its all personal prefrance. Take "opinions" for what they're worth.

 

I agree that these threads come up at an annoying rate, but remember everyone has to start somewhere to even be able to have something on which to base an opinion. Unfortunately, it seems impossible to expect people to do any reading at all before asking questions. So, we have this forum is for newbies asking newbie questions. After all, a lot of people seem to like answering newb questions.

If you haven't ever driven a cammed LS1, or even been in one, then you have nothing on which to base your opinion, other than by listening to others. Most people's advice on here, based on your question, will be to start off with the TR224 on a 114 LSA. This forum is good for getting some ideas, but call Thunder Racing, Vengance, Spped Inc., Texas Speed, etc., etc., etc., to get the pro's opinion. Call 'em all.

My DD has a (Patriot Performance) 225/229 on a 114 in it. It has -1 degree of overlap. Stock cams have like, -15 degrees (or whatever, I forget). Lopey, race cams have like 20-30, even 40+ degrees of overlap. I wanted a cam with around 0 degrees. See sig for formula.

The higher the lift, the more power everywhere, but the harder the cam will be on the springs, etc. If you have a high lift cam, it will require stronger springs, making them somewhat louder. That will also mean you can't just jump in the car on a cold day and drive off without warming it up a bit.

 

I just think people lie alot driving cars with MS4's with big *** stalls would be like hell on earth I dont care how good your tune is people just over blow **** to much. Leading alot of others a stray with there fairy tales.

 

why dont you talk about things you have experience on and leave the rest to experienced people in that subject..

i TRULY DD my ms4 cam, PRCls6, full bolt ons, ported 9090, 4k stall, 410s, weight reduction car ****EVERY DAY****!!!! i also drive it to and from the track.. its just over an hour one way, and just over an hour back..

rain, snow, sleet, sun whatever.... 0 degrees or 110 degrees... its almost 20 miles to my work... so going there and back is 40 miles... and i never come straight home.. sometimes i cruise a little, sometimes i grab a bite to eat...

IT IS *****ALL***** in the tune... my car is MUCH more street friendly than some cammed cars i know of with 230ish cam in them, they have mail order tunes.. i have a dynotune by a GOOD tuner..

YOU are going to stray people away from a big cam with your lack of experience on the subject.. dont down something cause you "think" it is one way or because of "hearsay" ...

what were you saying about people "blowing smoke" about DD this cam? practice what you preach brother..

 

Stock 01-02 cams have almost "negative" 30 degrees of overlap by your formula. But this is overlap at .050 so not sure what the total overlap would be. Might still be negative.

 

wow someone got a little butt hurt about the subject hahahhahahaha my car drives good with the 228 so I could care less, anybody with sense knows those big *** cams and stalls are not really DD types and if you got one you have a genius tuner but your gas mileage is ***. Who wants to drive something daily you have to fill up every other day. Basically if you want a cam that is good daily and not **** you in the *** and give you good power stick with the 224-228 range.

 

this is my point, you have COMPLETELY changed the "point" of your statement.. reason being you have NO idea what you are talking about..

i could care less what people think, including you.. but i would HATE to see someone not buy a cam because of an ignorant (NOT STUPID) statement such as the one you made..

yes, i do have a very good tuner.. like i said it is all in the tune! so dont down the cam/stall setup.. down tuners... say something along the lines of, if you dont have one hell of a tuner for your car with a big cam such as ms4 your car will be a shitty DD.. do not say, ms4 cams suck ***** for DD, cause in reality, they dont.. some tuners suck at tuning ms4s for DD's..

honestly, if i keep my foot out of it my gas mileage isnt THAT bad.. yea it sucks.. but what stalled a4 with gears and H/C doesnt?
to ME i would rather lose 5mpg more and go half a second faster... but thats all personal opinion and preference..

 

In all seriousness...call TSP or COMP or someone and just tell them what you're looking for.

 

Well you might rather lose 5mpg and go half a second faster but I dont or who says the guy who is asking does, whatever you win you seem like you will sit here and argue all day I dont feel like, to the person who started the thread do a search and see what people run for DD I will bet anything people go with the 224-228 cams over a MS4.

 

i didnt say you did.. nor did i say the OP did... but some people might.. you made a broad statement, that had no experience or knowledge on the subject to back it up..

i agree 100% more people daily drive cams under a 230ish duration, doesnt mean it is for everyone and SURE as hell doesnt make the ms4 a horrible DD by ANY stretch of the imagination..

you are not showing very much intelligence on this matter what so ever is all..

 

Sounds about right. I was going to say around -26, but that sounded low, so I just put -15. It's "negative" shitload whatever the case.

EDIT:

Stock 98-00 = about -34*.
Stock 01, 02 = about -29*.
TR-224@112 = 0*
TR-224@114 = -4*
F-13@112 = 7*
MS-3@112 = 15.5*
MS-4@111 = 18.5*
TR-TReX v.2 = 25*

^If I did my math right. If not, I blame it on the calculator.