smgbad

iTrader: (1)

Recently, I've been hearing more and more ticking both at idle and just a hair above idle in the valve/lifter area on the passenger side. Thinking it may be the valves/lifters or a rod. I just recently switched to fully synthetic oil from regular but that was over two months ago. I added some Seafoam to the crankcase and it still is audible. What should I do? Get the head areas rebuilt (valves, lifters, pushrods, springs)? Switch to a different head (like maybe off a Z06) (I heard that it will fit and gives lots more power.. dunno if it's true). Or any other suggestions. With suggestions, please list how much the suggestion would cost as well roughly. Thanks!

***Oh! and trying to keep this under $1500 or so if possible.. I'm about broke...***

hj99Z

iTrader: (1)

Cam + freshen up the top end. More power and fix your ticking problems and should run you about 800 bucks in parts

smgbad

iTrader: (1)

My shop says that refreshing the top end (lifters, valves, springs, etc.) will be about a 10-12 hour job. (equals out to be about $600-$700 or so). Is this a good deal? Or would it be any cheaper to just replace the whole head?

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

well if you take it to a sponsor on this site, they typically have a 1 time charge for installing those parts and also factor in a tuning charge, do youself a favor and take it to a reputable shop that is a sponsor here.

smgbad

iTrader: (1)

think they can do it for under $1000... or $1200?

grey95buick

iTrader: (3)

Including parts?........doubt it.

smgbad

iTrader: (1)

so yeah.. It'll probably run about $3000 to refresh the top end and change to a different cam. That was the quote on an LT1 ran for a guy last week... I have no idea if mine would be more or not. My mechanic said to try putting about a quart of automatic tranny fluid into the crank case about 500 miles before my next oil change. Then drain it out and fill back up with the F. synthetic. (Think I may try some Lucas oil stbalizer too instead of one of those quarts.). Anyone ever heard of trying tranny fluid in the engine before? and if so... would it hurt to have the level almost a quart over the line for 500 miles? just curious...

camaro19973

iTrader: (21)

i have heard about this but i wouldn't try it try it lets see what happens and tell us

mook99ta

iTrader: (3)

First of all stop adding stuff to your oil. Sea Foam is only supposed to stay in your oil for 200 miles or so, then you are supposed to drain, change your filter and replace your oil. I have heard about adding tranny fluid but don't really see any purpose to it. If you have any ability to work on your engine yourself you could refreshen your top end swithc cams and get a tune(I know some sponsors will do a mail order tune for their cams for about $250) for around $1500 total if you do it yourself and shop around. If you look around there are alot of how to's on how to swap all those parts and if you have basic tools you will be good. Hell if you where anywhere around Savannah I could do it for you pretty cheap. Do some research.
Pull your valve covers off and check for anything that doesn't look normal. You may only have a bent pushrod or something simple. Just my .02

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

pavlock down here i believe was doing the entire swap for 1700 but i dont think it included lifters, but it had oil pump, chain, rods, springs, cam, tune.

smgbad

iTrader: (1)

I have no way to get the engine out of the car. Otherwise I might tackle it myself. Also, I'll admit I've never dabbled in anything internal engine. When you say a bent pushrod is easy to fix, I know this makes me sound HELLA noob and all but, I only wish I knew a: what a pushrod actually is (heard of them, know it's important..never seen one), and b: how it comes out of the engine.

mook99ta

iTrader: (3)

You don't need to get the engine out of the car to do any of this. Your push rod is what connects the lifter to the rocker arm to actuate the valves. But like you said if you don't know what a pushrod is you probably shouldn't tackle this on your own unless you would really like to learn. Get a basic book explaining how an engine works and its components and go from there its always nice to at least know a little bit.

Cliff

iTrader: (19)

How many miles are on the motor? Has the motor been pushed hard? I would take off the valve cover and do a visual check and make sure all the rockers look normal ( the bolts should appear tight and no noticeable wear. One of my motors had a similar noise and the needle bearing feel out of a rocker.It's very obvious). I would then take a wrench and manually check to see if each bolt is tight).Make sure your springs are not broken and again it is very obvious is it is. If you have double springs check the inner spring very carefully. If all looks good then it's a good chance your lifters or lifter has gone flat (not pumping up) and you need to have them changes.
Also check your exhaust gasket and see if you have a leak or carbon build up around the gasket. If there is a leak in the gasket you will see carbon build up from the leaking area. Also have someone else press the gas peddle and feel for leaks around the gasket. I hope this helps.

sherm6998

First off, if you have a harbor freight close (or any parts store) get an automotive stethoscope. Less than $10. Also, pick up a chilton or Haynes manual for your car. The stethoscope will help you figure out if the noise is in the top end; and if so which bank. (put it in your ears and touch it to the valve cover with the engine running.) If the noise is louder in the valvecover area, pull one (or both) off and check the rocker arms to see if they are loose. (sits on top of the valvsprings and connectets the pushrods to the valve) Let us know what you find.

smgbad

iTrader: (1)

I'll have to try that. Maybe this weekend or two weeks from now. Don't think it'll do too much damage to the engine in the meantime if thats all it may be, but never hurts to have a sense of urgency when engines cost as much as a decent LS1 does...lol