please teach me
#1
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please teach me
I own a 2002 A4 TA and would like to know what types of mods i should be doing this is my first real car so please teach me i would like to know in order of what should be done first to gain overall performance not just hp
the mods i have done already are: cat back spintech exhaust 3'' all the way, FIPK2 from K&N, throtle body bypass, and aftermarket ram air functional hood. I also have but not installed a hypertech powerstat low temp thermostat. also if you could tell me were to get good prices on some things please tell me. i have very little mechcanical knowledge so please take it easy on me
thank you
the mods i have done already are: cat back spintech exhaust 3'' all the way, FIPK2 from K&N, throtle body bypass, and aftermarket ram air functional hood. I also have but not installed a hypertech powerstat low temp thermostat. also if you could tell me were to get good prices on some things please tell me. i have very little mechcanical knowledge so please take it easy on me
thank you
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Get a converter first. Then go with a lid (any aftermarket will work fine), longtube headers (FLP, QTP, Kooks, PPC, SLP, Jet Hot, etc), cutout if you want (electric QTEC is cool), a cam (check out TR and MTI, also many others), lowering kit if you want (will hurt track time a bit, though), new tires so you can hook, consider a beefier rear end, and nitrous is an easy and safe (if used properly) way to go fast. I'm sure that I'm forgetting a bunch, but that is just a quick summary.
Also, the search button is your friend!
Also, the search button is your friend!
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I totally agree with camarols1. Get a good aftermarket stall converter. 3200-3600rpm stall speed is a good stall for a streetable car, and will still make a hell of a difference at the track. A good camshaft will help, generally Thunder Racing(TR)'s 224/224 duration cam on a 114 Lobe Seperation Angle(LSA) will be good for an A4. 114lsa's are idle friendly for A4 cars. Nittos are a must with a 'verter and a cam. Definitely go for a lid, TSP seems to be a favorite right now, tho mti and direct-flo also are great lids. Cutouts are good for the track. Lowering the springs may improve handeling, but at the track they mess with the car's original properties of how the weight shifts when you launch, in a negative way. Aka it can screw with your launch times. Anything else just ask away man.
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A good place to find parts for halfa new prices is on the for sale section of this list.
As far as the mods go it sounds like you are right on track. Intake and exhaust will get the most bang for the buck. Spending some $ on suspension (LCA's, PHR, and springs) will do wonders for handling. Also adding SFC'c will stiffen up the chassis and is a wise choice if you plan to keep the car.
Heads and cam will make some serious power, but will also be kinda spendy.
Ask yourself (realistically) what do you want to do with the car? (daily driver, drag race, road race, etc) Then base your choice of mods on that decision. Hope that helps.
As far as the mods go it sounds like you are right on track. Intake and exhaust will get the most bang for the buck. Spending some $ on suspension (LCA's, PHR, and springs) will do wonders for handling. Also adding SFC'c will stiffen up the chassis and is a wise choice if you plan to keep the car.
Heads and cam will make some serious power, but will also be kinda spendy.
Ask yourself (realistically) what do you want to do with the car? (daily driver, drag race, road race, etc) Then base your choice of mods on that decision. Hope that helps.
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Originally Posted by samuraixv
what is a lid and a cutout and what do they do
but you already have the FIPK, so you wouldn't need one
Cutout...
lets you open up the exhaust and bypass your muffler
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#8
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Originally Posted by 98DroptopSS
A good place to find parts for halfa new prices is on the for sale section of this list.
As far as the mods go it sounds like you are right on track. Intake and exhaust will get the most bang for the buck. Spending some $ on suspension (LCA's, PHR, and springs) will do wonders for handling. Also adding SFC'c will stiffen up the chassis and is a wise choice if you plan to keep the car.
Heads and cam will make some serious power, but will also be kinda spendy.
Ask yourself (realistically) what do you want to do with the car? (daily driver, drag race, road race, etc) Then base your choice of mods on that decision. Hope that helps.
As far as the mods go it sounds like you are right on track. Intake and exhaust will get the most bang for the buck. Spending some $ on suspension (LCA's, PHR, and springs) will do wonders for handling. Also adding SFC'c will stiffen up the chassis and is a wise choice if you plan to keep the car.
Heads and cam will make some serious power, but will also be kinda spendy.
Ask yourself (realistically) what do you want to do with the car? (daily driver, drag race, road race, etc) Then base your choice of mods on that decision. Hope that helps.
#9
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lower control arms
panhard bar
^^ keeps wheels straight and no twisting. Brakestand a new bmw and then brake stand your car, you'll understand why you need them. A bimmer will plant perfectly square and squat. My z28 will kinda twist and move.
which brings you to subframe connectors, for sore on ttop cars makes alot of torque (verter). You will twist the unibody without them, with a buttload of power you can actually twist the frame permanently. Maybe like 700whp or so.
pics at TSP site. wheel hop is murder on the drivetrain, so lca's and phr and sfc's will help you plant the newfound power, assuming you have enough power and traction.
I noticed how poor the z28 (00) would plant after i was playing with the wife's 2002 330ci. It would simply squat so flat it was not funny when you brakestand and launch, while my z28 creaks and twists. Of course bmw has a far superior rear suspension probably indepedent/multi-link, but its not a drag car.
just an interesting comparison. I might be ordering these parts after the year if its a good xmas. Having you axle move around on a hard launch is a sure way to muck up the weak 10 bolt rear end im guessing.
panhard bar
^^ keeps wheels straight and no twisting. Brakestand a new bmw and then brake stand your car, you'll understand why you need them. A bimmer will plant perfectly square and squat. My z28 will kinda twist and move.
which brings you to subframe connectors, for sore on ttop cars makes alot of torque (verter). You will twist the unibody without them, with a buttload of power you can actually twist the frame permanently. Maybe like 700whp or so.
pics at TSP site. wheel hop is murder on the drivetrain, so lca's and phr and sfc's will help you plant the newfound power, assuming you have enough power and traction.
I noticed how poor the z28 (00) would plant after i was playing with the wife's 2002 330ci. It would simply squat so flat it was not funny when you brakestand and launch, while my z28 creaks and twists. Of course bmw has a far superior rear suspension probably indepedent/multi-link, but its not a drag car.
just an interesting comparison. I might be ordering these parts after the year if its a good xmas. Having you axle move around on a hard launch is a sure way to muck up the weak 10 bolt rear end im guessing.
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Also, samuraixv, read the LS1 and Internet acronyms sticky at the top of this page, that will explain most of the acronyms that are tossed around here for you.
#12
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Originally Posted by samuraixv
what is a lid and a cutout and what do they do