headers
long tubes = power
Its pretty much that simple.
and these are long tubes (hooker)

and these are shorties (jba)

and these are midlengths (macs)

if you plan to do any substantial mods (i.e heads/cam) then long tubes are the only way to go. there are some guys that for emissions reasons go with shortiest but to me its still a waste of money.
also what would be a good upgrade to go with??, i dont want to spend a lot of money either
if your on a budget you cant beat pacesetters LT's, coated there 339 from TSP. uncoated are cheaper but stick with the coated ones.
if you want full exhuast your gonna have to spend money, period. i got great deals on my setup and in totals from headers to catback and all the bolts, gaskets, o2 extensions it cost about 950 bucks and thats the cheap end.
if you get LT's you'll need a new Y-pipe. an ORY will run you from 120-200 bucks and a catted y is around 400-500 bucks. you can buy an ORY and have your own cats of choice welded in. or you can go a custom Y route, its the one i went. that'll run you about 150-200 bucks. i have a custom y w/ carsound cats.
also with LT's you'll need o2 extensions for the front o2 sensors and o2 sims for the rears or turn them off with ls1 edit or predatory.
a full exhuast isnt cheap but its worth it to me, the power increase and the sound validate it everytime i turn on the ignition
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It'll be cheaper than getting a full exhaust and it'll outflow any catback too.
As an added bonus, it'll be quieter (although some people don't like that).
You can run with the cutout open, but that's too obnoxious for me.
There are plenty of options, but like onebadz said, try the external forum for more info.
. i have front cats and no rear cats but with a tune on a h/c car you should pass. with just LT's you should be able to pass the sniffer and OBD II test as long as you run o2 sims for the rear.shorties will pass 100%, in realitiy only anything with a carb number is legal but **** that


