Blew my trans last night
#1
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so i was pulling on to the highway last night and got on it WOT the car went up to 6200 rpm and bounced the rev limiter a little then it shifted into second Hard and just gave out right then. the car was in drive and was just rolling like it was in Neutral i pulled over into some warehouses and found that if i put it in 1 or 2 it will still move but if i give it alot of gas it will make weird noise. 3d and 4d do not work. So i got the car home in 2nd gear drove 25 the whole way.
Anyway,does anybody know a good transmission shop around in the dfw area?
this needs to be fixed asap.
How much will cost to get it beefed up and rebuilt if i bring the trans itself to the shop?
Anyway,does anybody know a good transmission shop around in the dfw area?
this needs to be fixed asap.
How much will cost to get it beefed up and rebuilt if i bring the trans itself to the shop?
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if you are working on a budget i would not get it rebuilt, just grab a used one and drop it in. and most of the rebuilders really do not do a very good job on rebuilding automatics. and most of the time the used tranny will outlast the rebuilt one.
also replacing the tranny yourself would save you allot of money and you will learn something. it is really not that hard. if you have questions as to how to remove it shoot me a pm and i will help you out.
also replacing the tranny yourself would save you allot of money and you will learn something. it is really not that hard. if you have questions as to how to remove it shoot me a pm and i will help you out.
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^^^ I'd trust a rebuilt trans than a used unit any day. My dad owns a shop, and they see more people come back with issues after sticking a used unit than they do with a rebuilt one. It's like having a new one if its been rebuilt properly.
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^that is just my personal experience with them, auto's are not the easiest transmission to rebuild, and allot of people do not know how to do it properly. i am sure you dad sends out him automatics to somebody that really knows what they are doing.
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Hey, I feel your pain! I did the same thing to my rear end a couple of weeks ago on my Fbod
I tried to look on the bright side that this would make a good opportunity for a project ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
As regards getting some advice on that tranny, check out www.easttexasmusclecars.com
Stephen would probably be able to give you some good advice on what to do next.
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As regards getting some advice on that tranny, check out www.easttexasmusclecars.com
Stephen would probably be able to give you some good advice on what to do next.
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You would get better responses posting this in the automatic transmission section, thats where the trans. sponsors spend most of their time...
trust me I've been there done that several times over the last 3 yrs and Know it sucks theoreticly my "local built trans" is worth about $6k now lol... If I knew what I know now I would have went with performabuilt or FLT and only spent $2k on a trans that would probably still be going strong. Instead of spending $2500 for the first "full performance" build, then $1200 for the broken pump and flexplate, then $900 for the snapped output shaft, then $750 for the flaired reverse input drum, then $500 for the blown input sprag lol. **** adds up quick![MAD](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_mad.gif)
Elias_799 is right you can throw all the top dollar internals you want at a 4l60 and if its not set up right its not gonna last...
If I was on an extreme budget I would pick up a used unit for 300 install it myself and start saving for a performabuilt
trust me I've been there done that several times over the last 3 yrs and Know it sucks theoreticly my "local built trans" is worth about $6k now lol... If I knew what I know now I would have went with performabuilt or FLT and only spent $2k on a trans that would probably still be going strong. Instead of spending $2500 for the first "full performance" build, then $1200 for the broken pump and flexplate, then $900 for the snapped output shaft, then $750 for the flaired reverse input drum, then $500 for the blown input sprag lol. **** adds up quick
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Elias_799 is right you can throw all the top dollar internals you want at a 4l60 and if its not set up right its not gonna last...
If I was on an extreme budget I would pick up a used unit for 300 install it myself and start saving for a performabuilt
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BTW your failure sounds like the last part I broke on my long list the Input sprag because your still able to take off from a stop in manual 1st or 2nd correct?
When mine went starting from a stop car acted like it was in neutral when in 3rd or OD position but I was still able to shift to 3rd above 20mph and 4th above 30mph, Is that the case with yours or is 3rd and 4th non-existent
When mine went starting from a stop car acted like it was in neutral when in 3rd or OD position but I was still able to shift to 3rd above 20mph and 4th above 30mph, Is that the case with yours or is 3rd and 4th non-existent
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BTW your failure sounds like the last part I broke on my long list the Input sprag because your still able to take off from a stop in manual 1st or 2nd correct?
When mine went starting from a stop car acted like it was in neutral when in 3rd or OD position but I was still able to shift to 3rd above 20mph and 4th above 30mph, Is that the case with yours or is 3rd and 4th non-existent
When mine went starting from a stop car acted like it was in neutral when in 3rd or OD position but I was still able to shift to 3rd above 20mph and 4th above 30mph, Is that the case with yours or is 3rd and 4th non-existent
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Yea check it out, get going about 25 in 2nd and manually shift to 3rd and see if it goes in, then try the same for 4th at around 35mph... FYI I limped my car around for 2 months like this all around town and even some longer freeway drives and it was holding till i decided to get on it merging on the freeway one day lol