LQ4 vs. Fbody Pullout LS1
#21
It would depend if you are going to use the stock pistens and rods if so i would get a lq9 instead of the lq4 so you wouldnt have to deal with the dished pistens so my vote would be a lq9 and the weight difference is 80lbs
#26
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Car Craft has been doing a junkyard 6.0 buildup for several months and they have run a lot of comparisons between setups on the lq4/9 blocks.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ild/index.html
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ild/index.html
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...nes/index.html
#27
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LQ4/LQ9 is worth it IF;
1. you can buy it cheap for like $800 and it has 50k or less miles
2. you DO NOT rebuild it and just drop it in.
This engine is a waste of time and money if you plan to rebuild it. Not to mention every 100lbs you shed is worth a 10th of a second in the 1/4.
Stuff you need to make a LQ4/LQ9 work
1. f-body oil pan
2. f-body accessorie drive
3. drive by wire gas pedal or a new throttlw body that has cable provision
4. LS1/LS6 intake as the truck intake is junk
5. LS1 coil pack brackets as they truck are remote mount or have tall coil packs depending on the years (last time I checked the tall packs are a bitch to get under the cowl if using this stuff in a 4th gen)
So figure after buying the above crap plus the original cost of the truck motor and then paying for machine work you're looking at around $3000 minimum invested just to get to what a cammed LS2 or LS6 yields.
Call Scoggins Dickey and order a brand new LS6 crate motor for $2800. It's brand freaking new, no messing with machine shops that almost always dick you over, no guess work in getting/hoping parts will match up.
Or buy a low mile LS1/T-56 pull out combo for like $3000 complete and call it a day.
The LQ4 was a cheap way to get to 6 liters 4 years ago. Nowadays its old news.
1. you can buy it cheap for like $800 and it has 50k or less miles
2. you DO NOT rebuild it and just drop it in.
This engine is a waste of time and money if you plan to rebuild it. Not to mention every 100lbs you shed is worth a 10th of a second in the 1/4.
Stuff you need to make a LQ4/LQ9 work
1. f-body oil pan
2. f-body accessorie drive
3. drive by wire gas pedal or a new throttlw body that has cable provision
4. LS1/LS6 intake as the truck intake is junk
5. LS1 coil pack brackets as they truck are remote mount or have tall coil packs depending on the years (last time I checked the tall packs are a bitch to get under the cowl if using this stuff in a 4th gen)
So figure after buying the above crap plus the original cost of the truck motor and then paying for machine work you're looking at around $3000 minimum invested just to get to what a cammed LS2 or LS6 yields.
Call Scoggins Dickey and order a brand new LS6 crate motor for $2800. It's brand freaking new, no messing with machine shops that almost always dick you over, no guess work in getting/hoping parts will match up.
Or buy a low mile LS1/T-56 pull out combo for like $3000 complete and call it a day.
The LQ4 was a cheap way to get to 6 liters 4 years ago. Nowadays its old news.
#30
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Well I cannot find where you were finding a $2800 LS6... And I havent been able to find a LS1/T56 for under 5k... So if I was going to do that I would just by from Hawks Third Gen for $4500...
LQ4/LQ9 is worth it IF;
1. you can buy it cheap for like $800 and it has 50k or less miles
2. you DO NOT rebuild it and just drop it in.
This engine is a waste of time and money if you plan to rebuild it. Not to mention every 100lbs you shed is worth a 10th of a second in the 1/4.
Stuff you need to make a LQ4/LQ9 work
1. f-body oil pan
2. f-body accessorie drive
3. drive by wire gas pedal or a new throttlw body that has cable provision
4. LS1/LS6 intake as the truck intake is junk
5. LS1 coil pack brackets as they truck are remote mount or have tall coil packs depending on the years (last time I checked the tall packs are a bitch to get under the cowl if using this stuff in a 4th gen)
So figure after buying the above crap plus the original cost of the truck motor and then paying for machine work you're looking at around $3000 minimum invested just to get to what a cammed LS2 or LS6 yields.
Call Scoggins Dickey and order a brand new LS6 crate motor for $2800. It's brand freaking new, no messing with machine shops that almost always dick you over, no guess work in getting/hoping parts will match up.
Or buy a low mile LS1/T-56 pull out combo for like $3000 complete and call it a day.
The LQ4 was a cheap way to get to 6 liters 4 years ago. Nowadays its old news.
1. you can buy it cheap for like $800 and it has 50k or less miles
2. you DO NOT rebuild it and just drop it in.
This engine is a waste of time and money if you plan to rebuild it. Not to mention every 100lbs you shed is worth a 10th of a second in the 1/4.
Stuff you need to make a LQ4/LQ9 work
1. f-body oil pan
2. f-body accessorie drive
3. drive by wire gas pedal or a new throttlw body that has cable provision
4. LS1/LS6 intake as the truck intake is junk
5. LS1 coil pack brackets as they truck are remote mount or have tall coil packs depending on the years (last time I checked the tall packs are a bitch to get under the cowl if using this stuff in a 4th gen)
So figure after buying the above crap plus the original cost of the truck motor and then paying for machine work you're looking at around $3000 minimum invested just to get to what a cammed LS2 or LS6 yields.
Call Scoggins Dickey and order a brand new LS6 crate motor for $2800. It's brand freaking new, no messing with machine shops that almost always dick you over, no guess work in getting/hoping parts will match up.
Or buy a low mile LS1/T-56 pull out combo for like $3000 complete and call it a day.
The LQ4 was a cheap way to get to 6 liters 4 years ago. Nowadays its old news.
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SPDC has been posting about this for about a month now.
#32
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Regarding an LS1/T-56 for under $5000, where are you looking, eBay? $5000 will buy you a LS2/T-56 GTO setup all day long.
I see at least 2 LS1/t-56 combos a week on Craigslist and I live in Missouri which isn't exactly a major LA or NY style metropolis. It looks like you're in Montana which is going to be even worse so I'd suggest looking in California. Can't find good deals on stuff under a 100 miles from home, never can.
Also for $5000 you can buy a complete wrecked WS6 from those f-body salvage companies. Where do you think Hawk's gets them?
Ask anyone who's rebuilt an engine and they'll tell you that after all was said and done that they wish they'd have just bought a crate motor from the beginning as the cost was damn near the same and with a LOT less headache.
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Well I havent found a single LS1/T56 on craigslist... I live in CO and MT, and nothing... I will check on the Scoggins thing, but I looked at their website and didnt see one,.
#35
hey man theres a shop out by me that sells remanufactured 400hp ls6 motors for
Reman. LS6 5.7 Liter
400 H.P. Aluminum Long Block
Includes: Water Pump, Balancer,
Oil Pan, #241 Heads, Valve Covers
Flat-Top Pistons
Discounted Price $2,995.00
and the ls1pullouts can be had all day long for 1200-3500 depending on auto/m6 and miles i don't know where you look but i bought my ls1 for 400 complete and am rebuilding it for turbo's and there was a 2002 complete with bent rod for 500 my friend got it for 425 the intake and harness alone will cover the cost hahacraigslist ftmfw
Reman. LS6 5.7 Liter
400 H.P. Aluminum Long Block
Includes: Water Pump, Balancer,
Oil Pan, #241 Heads, Valve Covers
Flat-Top Pistons
Discounted Price $2,995.00
and the ls1pullouts can be had all day long for 1200-3500 depending on auto/m6 and miles i don't know where you look but i bought my ls1 for 400 complete and am rebuilding it for turbo's and there was a 2002 complete with bent rod for 500 my friend got it for 425 the intake and harness alone will cover the cost hahacraigslist ftmfw
#37
You can just look at car-part.com
Every low mileage LS1's I found were around 3500.00, I got my LQ4 with 40K for 1100.00.
As for the intake, TB, ect. ect...... Just use the stuff off your original engine.
As for the 65lb weight difference...Its not much heavier than a optima battery(38lb) or most sound systems ppl put in their cars. Unless your car is a die-hard track car its not really going to make much of a difference.... I can't feel a difference at all.
This is all just my opinion, but I have no regrets on the LQ4 install.
Every low mileage LS1's I found were around 3500.00, I got my LQ4 with 40K for 1100.00.
As for the intake, TB, ect. ect...... Just use the stuff off your original engine.
As for the 65lb weight difference...Its not much heavier than a optima battery(38lb) or most sound systems ppl put in their cars. Unless your car is a die-hard track car its not really going to make much of a difference.... I can't feel a difference at all.
This is all just my opinion, but I have no regrets on the LQ4 install.
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You can just look at car-part.com
Every low mileage LS1's I found were around 3500.00, I got my LQ4 with 40K for 1100.00.
As for the intake, TB, ect. ect...... Just use the stuff off your original engine.
As for the 65lb weight difference...Its not much heavier than a optima battery(38lb) or most sound systems ppl put in their cars. Unless your car is a die-hard track car its not really going to make much of a difference.... I can't feel a difference at all.
This is all just my opinion, but I have no regrets on the LQ4 install.
Every low mileage LS1's I found were around 3500.00, I got my LQ4 with 40K for 1100.00.
As for the intake, TB, ect. ect...... Just use the stuff off your original engine.
As for the 65lb weight difference...Its not much heavier than a optima battery(38lb) or most sound systems ppl put in their cars. Unless your car is a die-hard track car its not really going to make much of a difference.... I can't feel a difference at all.
This is all just my opinion, but I have no regrets on the LQ4 install.
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BTW, deals are out there you just gotta look.
$5000 for a COMPLETE LS2 & T-56 with 7000 miles!!!!
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/1511317051.html
$5000 for a COMPLETE LS2 & T-56 with 7000 miles!!!!
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/1511317051.html
#40
Thats kinda true.... But all he will really need to get going is the oilpan and windage tray. Coils will probably be on the motor. Going in a 3rd gen you could probably get away with using the front accessories from the truck.
And the truck intake (which is better the the F-Bodies) will fit under the hood of a 3rd gen.
You still could do a LQ motor swap cheaper than an LS....IMO
And the truck intake (which is better the the F-Bodies) will fit under the hood of a 3rd gen.
You still could do a LQ motor swap cheaper than an LS....IMO