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Old 01-18-2004 | 12:46 AM
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Default Just trying to get opinions from knowledgable people

How would you rate SLP overall? The reason I ask is because I think I may be getting my WS6 even sooner than I thought and would like to get my ducks in a row so to speak. I plan on lid, headers, and exhaust first (along with the free mods of course.) OK, and would someone please explain why to buy a FTRA kit when I already have ramair? Im a newbie, so dont get on me too much lol. Ok, so.....lid, headers and exhaust....need a y-pipe, x-pipe, or h-pipe? which one would i need for my application? what are the differences? ok.....after that, I think my very next mod will be a rear and gears. I know it may be a little earlier than most do it, but id rather be safe than sorry. I think im gonna go with 4.10's but should I go 12-bolt or 9 inch? Any brands in particular? Thanks in advance. You can email me @kjmdrumz3@aol.com or just post a response. And if you have any other ideas for mods, PLEASE feel free to let me know. Adam
Old 01-18-2004 | 02:07 AM
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over priced and over rated in a nut shell.

and what i suggest you do is read over the threads on the first 2 pages, already had all the info and more that you need.

first just get the car and go from there, the ls1 is alot of car, get used to it for a while before dumping money into mods. but when your ready lid and catback are good place to start. our cars come with a Y pipe from the factory but you can go duals if you want.

read, read, read. simply the best thing a newbie can do, familarize your self with the lingo (read the stickied thread) and just sit back and soak up the knowledge. it goes along way
Old 01-18-2004 | 02:17 AM
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I'll tackle the FTRA question...

You "need" a FTRA kit because your factory Ram Air doesn't work. Plain and simple. It's a marketing gimmick. You can buy a Brian Green ram air kit that will make your WS6 hood functional. In my opinion, it's not worth much at the track. I wouldn't spend the money on it. However I would definitely get some sort of ram air kit (FTRA or SSRA).

A good place to start modding is a lid, followed by a catback and maybe headers. You won't gain much at all by replacing the facory y-pipe on a relatively stock motor unless you get an ORY pipe (ORY = off road y-pipe which means no cats).

You will need a set of drag radials once you start modding. I'd hold off on the rear end and gears for a bit.
Old 01-18-2004 | 04:48 AM
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I've got the SLP Lid and LTs. I couldn't be happier. Quality is good, fit is good, customer service is good, delivery was fast, and performance improvement is definitely noticeable.

I was Mopar guy before buying my LS1 , so I did quite a bit of research before modding (mostly on this site). So keep reading, and if you decide on SLP, IMO you won't be disappointed. Good Luck.
Old 01-18-2004 | 08:24 AM
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This might not actually be what you are thinking, but when I first read your post, I was thinking you thought the WS6 was a SLP car. The WS6 is an ASC car. The Firehawk is the SLP.

Again, sorry if this didn't apply to you. I personally stay away from SLP stuff just because there is better stuff out there, especially for the price.
Old 01-18-2004 | 10:07 AM
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I should've stated in my post above that LS1's are really choked off from the factory which is the main reason people use the FTRA.
Old 01-18-2004 | 10:20 AM
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The SLP headers have some of the worst ground clearance, especially if you plan on doing suspension work to your car (lowering).
Old 01-18-2004 | 10:49 AM
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i have OE SLP parts on my car and a few mods from them.the parts ive used and have are excellent quality.i just bought an SS rim for $140.when i went to their raceday they gave everyone a 20% off raceday coupon.my personal experience with them has been very positive.



im not saying theyre the best out there and their parts outperform everyone else but i think theyre a good company.theyre NJ facility sure is busy.theyre dyno facility is top notch.
Old 01-18-2004 | 12:58 PM
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Thanks for the opinions guys. I have been reading and reading for the last few weeks. I just cant wait to get her!!!
Old 01-20-2004 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by DMNSPD
This might not actually be what you are thinking, but when I first read your post, I was thinking you thought the WS6 was a SLP car. The WS6 is an ASC car. The Firehawk is the SLP.
The WS6 was an SLP car, right up to the time they lost the contract to ASC in '96 or '97-can't recall the exact year.
Old 01-20-2004 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Weezzer
The WS6 was an SLP car, right up to the time they lost the contract to ASC in '96 or '97-can't recall the exact year.
I'm only refering to the LS1 cars, not the LT1.
Old 01-20-2004 | 02:08 PM
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Overall I'd ditto the overpriced, neutral on performance.
They're conservative and the folks I saw at the SLP
"customer appreciation day" from their technical side
didn't seem all that bright, experienced or driven. I
guess if they were, they'd have gone independent.

I have an SLP Y-pipe, an SLP convertible cross-brace,
an SLP MAF and an SLP CAI. Let me tell ya...

The SLP Y-pipe fit only after 3 rehangs and a severe
beating applied to both the pipe and the stock 'vert
crossbrace. But it's on there quiet now. Can't say it
made any difference or not, except for exhaust note.

SLP convertible cross-brace, meant to replace the OEM
piece due to Y-pipe fitment. SLP calls the OEM piece "flimsy"
but the stamping is actually stiffer than the spider bar
stock weldment, in the directions that matter. And,
the damn thing didn't fit; couldn't get more than three
of the four bolt holes to line up at once, and its legs
interfered with the Y-pipe worse than the stocker.
It's sitting in my closet, $80 worth of scrap.

SLP MAF worked fine, no change from stock tune, no
evident performance difference, bought used so it
was closer to the price I could have rebadged my own
truck MAF and soldered a resistor on, for. I can say
authoritatively that with it descreened, slightly
ported and retuned the MAF is not limiting my
performance. However the same is true of the stock
MAF....

SLP CAI raised my inlet air temp by a few degrees and
was too close to the radiator, with tranny cooler, to
suit me. So I ended up cutting most of it off and
making it draw from the nose space (more or less)
instead, now it is basically a fancy FTRA plate (I will
someday form some ducting to make the draw more
isolated from the radiator air crush space).

Basically all of these were impulse buys that had no
particular upside; just scratching the itch at modest
expense.

In my observation anything they make, you can find
better, cheaper, elsewhere. Except for some of the
appearance items (and this is a matter of taste).





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