ToxicWS6

was lookin at up grading rear sway bars and was looking at this spohn kit

http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=566&catid=70

was wondering if anyone had it and what they thought of it.

was also looking at the BMR lowering springs

http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=406&catid=66

i want a bit stiffer suspension with out slamming my car to the ground, i dont mind 1inch lower (especially since i got a half or 1in lift in the rear now thanks to the 9in) but another reason i want it is to stiffin the suspension up and give it that lower car feel and turning more then the lowered look, but in the details part says lowers 1in while retaining OE ride quality, does that mean its just gunna lower it 1in and thats it? and other thought is my 102k mile factory springs that are still there u think i would even notice the 1inch lowering part?

JD_AMG

Maybe Im reading this wrong but you want better handling and a lowered look? What do you mean by "lowered car feel"? - this could mean a lot of different things. Im asking because if you want a stable, controlled ride that is firm but not jarring then lowering springs on stock shocks and a huge rear swaybar is not going to get it.

Its claiming the ride quality will not change which is marketing BS (you will notice that BMR's marketing team seems to run the company as they claim things like this while its really just not possible since you are loosing 1" of suspension travel and gaining some spring rate).
But yes, its supposed to lower the car 1". But they don't make these springs anymore (ironically its seems the marketing team strikes again, they decide to drop these and copy a best selling spring).
Your factory springs shouldn't sag, so yes you should notice a difference in ride height.

ToxicWS6

sorry for confusion lol, pretty much ive owneda 91 honda prelude on adjustable coil overs and a 93 toyota mr2 on lowering springs, and yes i keep in mind there half the size of this car, but they would take corners like nothing, hittin exit ramps at like 70mph etc and not much body roll at all, i would like to get all that with out actually lowering my car to the ground. (i mean ya i might not get the full effect of it cause of center of gravity and size of vehicle but has to be better then stock springs shocks and sway bars?) my headers/exhaust already semi scrap going over speed bumps and my drive way is badly designed and i have ot creep into it so i dont take off my front end and i dont wanna not be able to park there anymore

ToxicWS6

basically yes a firm, controllable ride with out crazy "tuner bounce" lol

Element

iTrader: (5)

Well, a monster sway bar is going to give you a lot of oversteer, especially if it's not matched properly with the front bar.

Cornering ability and ride quality has a lot to do with shocks; properly matching shocks and springs is a good thing, but you'd do better to spend the money on good shocks (Bilsteins are cheaper, but Koni 4/3 or 4/4s are very good) and matched sway bars (UMI, BMR, and Sam Strano all sell them) with stock springs than going with drop springs, stock shocks, and a huge rear sway bar.

Ricer jiggle typically comes from a massive static drop without changing the shocks to compensate - you're forcing the shock past its ability to properly dampen, and wind up with a car that bounces like a fat chick on a trampoline every time it hits a bump. Cars like that typically don't handle worth a ****, because the shock can't properly function.

JD_AMG

^The above post sums it up

Then you are going about things very wrong. That massive rear bar is only going to hurt handling. A good general rule is to stay away from anything labled "drag"
Exit ramps at 70mph are no problem with the right suspension/tires, its pretty simple actually. And "slamming" our cars actually hurts the handling, they have limited travel as is, and putting them on the bump stops makes things pretty finicky.
The main thing you need before all else is good shocks, the stockers are down right terrible, and "oem replacements" arn't any different because its the valving thats the problem.
Konis, like mentioned above, are an excellent choice and will make a night and day difference in handling and ride quality.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=20&ModelID=7
^ sponsor site, Sam Strano, national auto-x champ in his '00 Camaro with pretty simple mods:
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...fications.html
These are the kind of suspension mods to look into.
Here he is on the track, near the end you will see him pass the track instructor in a Porsche GT3, as you can see these cars are very capable when setup right, and it really doesn't take much.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDxe1lHIxuE

edit: forgot to mention, that locker rear end is really going to hurt you.

ToxicWS6

ight thanks guys, ill look into gettin shocks and all then when the $$ comes around for it, thought sway bars were better handling for the fact u dont get body roll but , thanks for the point in the right direction lol

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

AVOID the Spohn Rear Sway bar if you EVER plan on running a Adjustible shock. IMO if your putting a drag bar on, your going to want shocks. The Spohn kit is notorious for needing severe grinding just to clear the ***** and most time still breaks off the adjustible *****.

If you want a drag bar look at either BMR or UMI. I myself use a combo of BMR and UMI parts on my car, the Dragbar is UMI. VERY nice piece, it makes the car feel solid without the front sway on it.

Element

iTrader: (5)

Well, they are, but that's when you get into the differences between drag bars and normal sway bars. Drag bars are designed to be extremely stiff to really limit the rear end twisting over to the right (if you've ever seen a drag car with an airbag on the right side of the axle, it's a different way of accomplishing the same thing), while normal sway bars are stiffer than stock, but not so stiff that they limit proper suspension movement. Regular sway bars need to be matched front and rear, also, or you'll get some weird handling issues.

An extremely stiff rear bar limits weight transfer in turns (by limiting body roll to a very high degree), meaning you're much more likely to get snap oversteer when the rear kicks out in a turn because you don't have enough weight transfer to the outboard wheel. Without weight transfer, you don't get bite - it's the same with a drag car, but instead of fore-aft weight transfer, you're looking at left/right weight transfer, as well as a little bit of fore-aft transfer.

Strano's adjustable rear bar is nice because you can go from having a stiffer bar for when you run at the track, to having a more compliant bar for driving on the street, just by switching a couple bolts.

ToxicWS6

ya i was lookin at the umi bar and liked that one, and for Element, ok i see what u mean now, makes sense, right now i dont have a rear sway bar at all cause when i went with the 9inch it didnt clear properly with the stock one, used 3in exhaust clamps to make the clamps fit but still didnt work, so right now my car feels like my lifted 87 k5 blazer lol, and what size is the front sway bar, looks thick, like 32mm ish or 34, i have WS6 package

JD_AMG

Ah, you never said that before, so thats why you want a new rear bar. Why did you get a 9" with a locker anyway if you want handling?

WS6 package comes with 32mm front bar, which works good with the 19mm rear stock bar, and anything bigger will make the car pretty tail happy. A bigger set that is balanced similar is 35mm front 22mm rear (look at strano's hollow set, or UMI's solid set).

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Everybody in this thread has given solid advice... I run a Strano spring/sway setup with Koni 4/4's and couldn't be happier. With a 9" go with the 4/3's though. Don't forget you need to center the rear with an adjustable PHB after you lower. A front end alighnment is needed also...