Newbie with Stock 99TA
11-04-2010, 01:55 AM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Jupiter, FL
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Newbie with Stock 99TA I am planning conservative mods on a stock 99 TA (LS1) automatic including Kooks headers and Magnaflow exhaust. The engine has 241,000 miles. But, it runs perfectly and it has maintained excellent compression. I need advice on the air box, etc to match the plans for headers and exhaust. I have the stock WS6 Ram Air hood with lid and WS6 lower box, stock MAF, stock TB and intake. Should I have the SLP or FTP lid and aluminum intake set-up installed? Any preferance SLP vs. FTP? I recently purchased the 85mm SLP MAF (no black coupler included) on eBay. Can I buy the coupler (MAF to TB) separately (I hope)? Should I have the TB ported and switch out the intake for a ported LS6 intake? I would also add ported heads and a moderate cam. But, I am afraid that this would be too much for the pistons, etc after almost a quarter million miles. I plan to use the car as a semi daily driver (I have another car I can use for work transportation) and I do not plan to race it. I would like a little more HP, throttle response, and a throaty sound. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I enjoy this car enough that I will drop in a new crate engine when the time comes. Then, the real mods will begin! Thanks in advance!
11-04-2010, 02:06 AM
#2
LS1Tech Administrator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
Posts: 32,362
Likes: 0
Received 1,794 Likes
on
1,278 Posts
Has the trans ever been rebuilt? I assume so, but if not, I would not do any internal engine mods unless you are prepared financially for the trans to die.
I'd do the SLP lid and LS6 intake. I would skip the 85mm MAF, and probabaly just look at getting the stock TB ported & polished. Heads & cam setups would be an entirely different discussion, as the possibilities are seemingly endless. But if you want something moderate I'd look at a set of 243 heads from somewhere like TSP (sponsor, Texas Speed), and a 224 to 228-ish cam.
You will also want a higher stall torque converter to compliment the cam. 3500 stall minimum, IMO. But again, make sure the trans is up to the task (or that you're fully able to replace it) before going further than basic bolt-ons.
Overall, that's a lot of miles, even for an LS1. Even with great compression test results, spinning the motor to higher than stock rpms (will be needed to take full advantage of the heads/cam) will likely put you on borrowed time. Just be prepared for an engine rebuild if you drive it hard.
I'd do the SLP lid and LS6 intake. I would skip the 85mm MAF, and probabaly just look at getting the stock TB ported & polished. Heads & cam setups would be an entirely different discussion, as the possibilities are seemingly endless. But if you want something moderate I'd look at a set of 243 heads from somewhere like TSP (sponsor, Texas Speed), and a 224 to 228-ish cam.
You will also want a higher stall torque converter to compliment the cam. 3500 stall minimum, IMO. But again, make sure the trans is up to the task (or that you're fully able to replace it) before going further than basic bolt-ons.
Overall, that's a lot of miles, even for an LS1. Even with great compression test results, spinning the motor to higher than stock rpms (will be needed to take full advantage of the heads/cam) will likely put you on borrowed time. Just be prepared for an engine rebuild if you drive it hard.
Last edited by RPM WS6; 11-04-2010 at 02:13 AM.
11-04-2010, 02:29 AM
#3
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 81 Likes
on
72 Posts
You typically don't port stock LS6 intakes, they do fine by themselves. I would, like rpm said, focus on reliability issues like the tranny and do a possible converter upgrade. However if you want the car to sound good, I would do exhaust first, new tranny and about a 3200 converter second, and not do internal engine mods till you buy your new crate engine 
Last edited by 01ssreda4; 11-04-2010 at 04:11 AM.
11-04-2010, 03:13 AM
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Jupiter, FL
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trans never rebuilt. Thanks for all of the input. I'll follow your suggestions. Exhaust, tranny, stall, then SLP lid and LS6 intake. Internal mods can wait. BTW, should I get the SLP lid and intake set-up or just the lid?
11-04-2010, 03:22 AM
#5
LS1Tech Administrator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
Posts: 32,362
Likes: 0
Received 1,794 Likes
on
1,278 Posts
You typically don't port stock LS6 intakes, they do fine by themselves. I would, like rpm said, focus on reliability issues like the tranny and do a possibly converter upgrade. However if you want the car to sound good, I would do exhaust first, new tranny and about a 3200 converter second, and not do internal engine mods till you buy your new crate engine
Wow. That's a lot of miles for a 4L60E behind an LS1.
I would just do the lid.
11-04-2010, 08:13 AM
#7
IMO I would do a standard leak down and compression test of the motor, that would never hurt. At least you would have a indication on the health. Assuming all that is good it would be a bad thing to consider new springs and valve seals.
Aside from maybe expecting a trans rebuild at some point, doing a LID, headers and cat back are a great way of un corking some power. Also consider a converter when the trans gets rebuilt and having some, not all, but some of the TQ management dialed back on the PCM, as well as other adjustments. Since you did springs, then you can bump the limiter.
Aside from maybe expecting a trans rebuild at some point, doing a LID, headers and cat back are a great way of un corking some power. Also consider a converter when the trans gets rebuilt and having some, not all, but some of the TQ management dialed back on the PCM, as well as other adjustments. Since you did springs, then you can bump the limiter.
Trending Topics
11-04-2010, 11:31 AM
#8
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Jupiter, FL
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It sounds like I should get the tranny rebuilt ASAP along with a stall and cooler. I even considered dropping the engine for a re-build (crank, pistons, etc). But, I am sure the possibilities are endless (Stroker kit, etc). I will likely wait for a major problem before dropping the engine though. At that point, the decision will be between a rebuild or a crate engine. I am also concerned that the rear end will quit once I add any more HP to the equation. For now, I will take everyone's advice and get the transmission rebuild with a stall and cooler, SLP lid, headers, cat back, compression test along with springs and valve seals, and adjustments to the PCM. I sounds like I will need a tuner like a Predator. Thank you again for all of the help.