i know a high stall will improve drag strip times. it improves launches for a A-4. im looking into getting a high stall but dont know if it will benefit me. i dont really like racing from a dig. i mainly like racing from a roll anywhere from 10-60 mph. will a 3200 stall benefit me in 10-60 mph roll racing situations or is it mainly just for the drag strip?

 

Higher stalls are used with larger cams. Larger cams move the rpm of the torque peak up. In a stock engine where the torque peaks at 2500, a stock stall is fine. If you cammed it up so that the torque peak now happens at 4000, a 3200 stall would be more appropriate.

Its not a better or worse thing, its just that the stall needs to match the rest of the setup including cam duration, head flow, vehicle weight, etc. You can cheat one way or the other depending on the intended use of the vehicle, but if you have a stock engine, a stock stall is fine.

 

This is correct. However, you will benefit from a higher stall convertor. A stock LS1 will love a stall anywhere in between 3200-4000.
A 3200 stall from a slow roll will still give you many of the benefits it gives you from launching from a stop. Also, an aftermarket stall will raise the shift extensions, which will keep you closer to peak hp during a run.

 

a stall will help big time from a roll. get your trans tuned too.

 

Converters, like rear gearing changes are really something that needs to be dialed in when your getting near the end of a engine build. Due to so many variations of race weight, power, drive train, suspension, tires, track conditions that stall converters can positivly effect results or negativly effect results. There is a fine balance.

You need to define your car as in what it has for mods, what will it get in the near futures (1-3 years), and does any of those mods include Nitrous?? These can be big choices.

BUT in the spirit of this post I do have a suggestion. If staying N/A (no power added, cam at most) you would want a small diameter converter that stalls 4400 rpm, or in the converter world a N/A Converter. IF ricing from a roll is more your bag, then tone down the stall into the mid-3k from a good company.

BUT I also would not recommend top $$$ converters as in MOST cases, once the car is tuned, MOST tuners remove most if not ALL Torque Management, which means that transmission is suspect and can/will fail you at some point, especially if your making near 400 horse. So when the trans lets go, most time so much debris and shiz goes through the trans, it contaminates the converter.

4L60e's are junk, they do fail, and you want to be smart on your purchase. Yank, Circle D, Ultimate Converters, even Pro Torque or Percision Industries are great choices.

 

A stock converter is the slowest way to go. Anything you choose over and above it will benefit you in performance. I would personally choose a minimum of 3200 but would prefer a 3600. A Yank SS3600 would do nicely.

 

have you had any tranny problems after installing your stall? my ws6 is my daily driver. i drive it everyday. i dont race much but i would like to have extra tourqe when i need it.

 

From a stop, the throttle reponse will be a little off, compared to what you are used to but in the end, the car will benefit.

Look at either a stock dyno shee with either a LOW rpm pull on a chassis or even better a engine stand and you can see where bringing up the stall will help.

 

do you happen to know if tci is any good? thinking about possibly getting this one from ws6store.com http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=883
or maybe just a 3000 stall like this one http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=882 what do you think?

 

TCI has been in the biz for years, I never bought any of their stuff though. You could ask this question in the Automatich Trans Section, its a good question. Here is what I found just a comparision....

http://www.converter.cc/converters/street/GM/1/

YANK SUPER STOCK 3200 LS1
245mm, 3200 stall, 2.1 STR) The Yank Super Street 3200 is for enthusiasts running stock 3.15 gears, but want more "thrust" off the line. It bridges the gap between the Stealth 3000 and will hit the tires harder for excellent throttle response. $725


SUPER STOCK 3600 4L60E/4L65E LS1
245mm very high stall torque ratio. 3600 stall, 2.50 STR
Lightweight billet cover $725

http://www.performabuilt.com/converters.html#gm95 (9.5 inch non billet race converters

GM - TH350, 400, 2004R, 700R4, 4L60E*, 4L65E*, 4L70E* - $695.00 )

Basically your with in a couple of hundred from a proven TQ converter setup. TCI though "should" be fine, I personally never used them.

 

When I was looking for a stall I had the same recommendations - above a 3000 stall, I planned at the most to have a cam and nitrous in the future so I ended up with a 4000 stall with a 2.4 STR. It was prob the best mod I did. If I did it again I would prob do a 4400 stall though. It’s an absolute blast to drive compared to the stock stall.

 

From what I've heard here lots of people move from TCI to "better" brands like Yank, Vigilante, and Circle D and have better results both on street and strip.

Although if roll racing is your big thing you would be wise to look into a manual trans. My stall helped a lot but I'm still slower from a roll than manuals with less power than me.

 

If it's your DD, leave it stock. I DD my car. If I could go back I would wait until I got a second vehicle to DD. It's all preference tho. I did my cam and stall at the same time. I miss stock drivability and the mpg.

 

That is another good point, when Ricing From the Roll, having control of your gear is more important as your are fighting parasitic loss and the dreaded "No Down Shift" situation which will loose a close race everytime.

I used to have a friend, whom still post here and back in the day his car was a 2002 Camaro z28 m6 4.10's with Boltons and tune. MUCH lighter race weight then my 1994 Camaro z28 383 LT1 A4 3.23's 2800 stall. Now mind you, this was back before anyone heard of Lloyd Elliot and a lot of the stuff that makes LT1's fast were not avalible. Stall wall was still present on 94-95 ODBI Trans equipped Fbodies and I was still learning the trade back in 2002-2003.

But long story of the short, he ALWAYS like roll racing as he could not and to this day cannot race that car from a stop. Over powered for mods and under E.T. potential that car.

From a 20-30 roll I generally hold for about 1-2 seconds and he walk me, basically everytime. With exception of a miss shift and to me, I would not call that a victory for the me, just he let himself lose.

But get that same car from a dead stop and even with no suspension, 3.23 gears, Nittos, 2800ish stall (Pro Torque), and much higher race weight, I would put multiple car lengths on the car. My best ET back then was 12.08x @ 113 MPH and only did a 1.78x 60 foot and I think he was mid 12's on a good run. Eventually, and thats multiple tranny rebuilds later he did hit 11.9998 @ 118ish like once and I mean only once. He has since gone heads/cam/nitrous and bettered that but there goes to show the MPH diff.

MPH will tell you what the Weight to Horse power ratio is and that can basically guage how bad your going to get beat from a roll. HAD my 94 LT1 had a M6 with same gearing, I would prob MPH 115-116 and with control of the gear, the race would be decided on who got the jump and from a dig, who was the better raced (which is me lol).

Another perspective to consider.

 

I have a VRx4 and that is not that bad of a cam, not considered wild by any measure. By sound, or really power.

 

I daily drive my chevelle with mods in sig. Doesn't bother me at all...hell it gets better mileage on the highway than my 92 v6 chevy single cab that can't get out of its own way. Even with the stall the mileage isn't much worse than the truck in town...

 

The O/D makes a hell of a diff over my 70' Chevelle with a TH-350 and 3.08's that thing drank fuel (warmed over 355, mild cam, iron heads) unknown stall.

 

I'm still on a TSP mail order tune lol

 

Roll racing from low speeds gives the advantage to the auto. Where the auto loses worst is our 3rd gear to their 4th. We don't pull well in 3rd, and their 3rd/4th gear pulls well. Thats where a manual will come back and beat you. If you can keep the race to 1st and 2nd in the auto, then with a good stall you have a very good chance at winning. Go into 3rd and its doomsday.

 

For roll racing look at STR. As a general rule a lower STR will be more efficient (less power loss) on the top end. That is ONE reason mod for mod a stalled auto will dyno less than a M6 car.

If I had it to do over again I would do the PT4000 on the linked page instead of my SS3600. It is a VERY efficient convertor. BTW factory STR is 1.8

http://www.converter.cc/converters/street/GM/1/