Easy power adders?
03-13-2011, 09:27 PM
#24
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well, for a manual hitting the track often, you'd definitely need a new rear. But with a new rear, some bolt-ons and some DRs, you should be able to get low 12's as well with a good launch. Just cheaper to go the stalled auto route unless you already have the t56 and 12bolt.
Just take a look at everyone's time slips, see what they have, and what they run. Base what you should do off of what others have and run
Just take a look at everyone's time slips, see what they have, and what they run. Base what you should do off of what others have and run
03-13-2011, 09:34 PM
#25
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Get a cam with high 220's, low 230's duration and a higher LSA like 114. Won't be very radical. Loudness comes from exhaust, not cam but that cam wouldn't lope much either.
03-13-2011, 09:38 PM
#26
Yeah, bolt on's drag radials and a stall will be easy mid to low 12's. If you are looking for 11's a mild cam will do it. This is all assuming you have a decent DA and don't live at 4,000ft like me 
I ran a 13.7@107 at 4,000ft in Fallon, NV and 13.2@114 at sea level in Sacramento, CA.
I ran a 13.7@107 at 4,000ft in Fallon, NV and 13.2@114 at sea level in Sacramento, CA.
03-13-2011, 09:41 PM
#27
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The power you are thinking about making is useless with out traction. I would do some suspension upgrades also, lca, sfc, phr, tq arm and a set of sticky tires. As for engine upgrades look for a ported and polished stock t/b, underdrive pullies, L/T headers & Y pipe if you dont have, tune and that should put you in the mid 12's. only replace the intake and heads if you do a cam. The FAST 102 intake is not going to make a big enough difference without heads and cam over the stock ls6 intake for the money. Dont forget a small stall converter something like a 2500. If your car has 2.73 gears upgrade to like 3.42 gear, if you have 3.23 stick with them.
03-13-2011, 10:44 PM
#31
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i wanna go fast and play with the big boys but i dont want to spend any money doing it.
your gonna have to spend some dough. dont be an idiot and swap to a t56. stay auto if your gonna drag it. learn more about nitrous (not nos noob) and look into doing a small shot. that alone will get you the times you want. full boltons, cam, and a shot will get you in the 11's.
oh and find another car to drive cause it sucks walking home when you break your dd at the track
your gonna have to spend some dough. dont be an idiot and swap to a t56. stay auto if your gonna drag it. learn more about nitrous (not nos noob) and look into doing a small shot. that alone will get you the times you want. full boltons, cam, and a shot will get you in the 11's.
oh and find another car to drive cause it sucks walking home when you break your dd at the track
03-14-2011, 02:20 PM
#33
You said it...
Every single one of these threads is a disaster.
OP: I wanna fast DD on a budget! What do I need?
Person 1: 100 shot and be done with it.
Person 2: Wait a minute bub, you're gonna need full suspension to put that 12 second power down!
Person 3: Start saving for a rear first... go with a spool and don't look back.
Person 4: Strip the entire car down, no A/C, race seats, etc., I love DDing my tin can!!
Person 5: You should be able to hit 12s with a TREX or MS4, they drive great BTW.
Ugh.
Every single one of these threads is a disaster.
OP: I wanna fast DD on a budget! What do I need?
Person 1: 100 shot and be done with it.
Person 2: Wait a minute bub, you're gonna need full suspension to put that 12 second power down!
Person 3: Start saving for a rear first... go with a spool and don't look back.
Person 4: Strip the entire car down, no A/C, race seats, etc., I love DDing my tin can!!
Person 5: You should be able to hit 12s with a TREX or MS4, they drive great BTW.
Ugh.
it is the newb sect for a reason though.. Glad to always post up in here when I have a dumb question haha
03-15-2011, 07:27 AM
#35
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Honestly? For a weekend racer, traction and nitrous will show the best dollar/timeslip ratio.
Set of slightly used slicks/DRs on salad-shooter rims: $300
Lightly used full nitrous set-up: $500ish
Start with a 75shot and get used to getting the car out of the hole.
Set of slightly used slicks/DRs on salad-shooter rims: $300
Lightly used full nitrous set-up: $500ish
Start with a 75shot and get used to getting the car out of the hole.
03-15-2011, 07:47 PM
#38
A very popular DD cam is the texas speed 228r, good for about 40rwhp. Can do 112 LSA which is very poplular or a 114lsa if you are really **** about it sounding anything other than almost stock. I have heard the 112 can be a little harder to start in really cold weather as well, but the trade off is you get your power sooner in the band. If you are thinking about a cam you have a lot of reading to do. Tons of threads to read about people asking which cam they should get.
03-16-2011, 12:35 AM
#39
Honestly I would spend alot of time researching cam sizes and what they run and how they are for a DD. The term "daily driver" is very relative what is acceptable to one might not be acceptable to another. And just a few days ago you were against a cam, now you are willing to do it, I would also consider other options and consider your overall goals for the car in. Although you get alot of good advice from posting there is a ton more information in past threads. Ive always thought that a 224 cam was good for a DD, but there are people who go 228, 232's and love it in their DD. And Ive raced my manual F bodies for years and never had a problem with the stock rear end. There is always a chance of breaking stuff but I think as long as your not doing 5-6k dumps it will be fine.
